Help with a repair

[Dan the Man]

The very corner of the bed of my truck, directly below the tail light, was damaged by the ball of a hitch when a woman back into my truck. Seems like a very difficult and deep repair. Especially being a rounded corner. How do I build this out? No way I can pull metal back to shape.IMG_1207.jpg

[Phil V]

It would be better if you pulled the black tape so we could see what you got there.

And another photo of a side profile shot of that truck bed corner.

[Dan the Man]

It would be better if you pulled the black tape so we could see what you got there.

And another photo of a side profile shot of that truck bed corner.

TRUCK DENT.JPGTRUCK DENT 2.JPG

I can't take off the tail light, its hanging by a thread.

[Phil V]

Much better pics. That is a really easy repair for a pro body man. Looks like that corner has been hit before.

Exactly what are your plans for repairs. In other words, how can we help you ?

[Dan the Man]

Much better pics. That is a really easy repair for a pro body man. Looks like that corner has been hit before.

Exactly what are your plans for repairs. In other words, how can we help you ?

I have the mechanical ability, but no body work knowledge. How would you tackle this? How do I build out/pull out the dent?

[Len]

I agree with Phil, it's an easy repair. Take out the light, pull the metal, grind off the paint and apply filler, level the filler, apply primer, block sand and paint.

[Phil V]

I have the mechanical ability, but no body work knowledge. How would you tackle this? How do I build out/pull out the dent?

There is no cheap easy fix for that damage if you want it to look like pre accident condition. (at least the current accident).

If you just want to pull it out as best you can to fit better at the tail light then pull the tail light out and use some kind of slide hammer (not the ones where you drill an 1/8" hole and use the screw type puller). It will look like the job is less than half done but better than it is right now. If you go that way make sure and use some kind of paint to seal the bare metal so it doesn't rust worse than it already is. (right side upper has been rusting for a while).

If you took it to a commercial bodyshop they would charge you in the neighborhood of $500 to $600 to make it look like new again. It's about a 5 or 6 hour job from start to finish. (for a pro bodyman). Materials will be in the $200 range (included in the $500 or $600).

Apparently the other person did a hit and run ? If that happened in a parking lot and you were parked then your insurance should cover it with no deductible.

[NioMarvin63]

Yes, of course you can do it yourself, but it will be difficult, especially since, as you say, you have no practice. Just try to warm up a little and level the surface with light taps. But here you have to be careful not to overheat and knock not so much and not with a hammer but with something plastic and more or less solid. Generally then ask for help for example wallworks will do quickly and inexpensively. But if he decided for himself. Take the tools in hand and try yourself) You can spray paint. Only also closed everything around read and preferably in the garage.

[Phil V]

Heating the metal isn't going to make a bit of difference if you try to hammer that damage out (close to impossible to hammer that dent out because there is no room to swing a hammer. Just thought that needed to be said.

If you want that box corner to look right when you're done then pay someone that knows what they're doing. Even that in most cases is going to end up with "you get what you pay for".

[Len]

That damage is a place to use something like this with number 4, 5 or 6.



Right now this kit goes for $99

[Phil V]

That damage is a place to use something like this with number 4, 5 or 6.



Right now this kit goes for $99

That is a great price, Len. I believe I paid more than that for mine 45+ years ago. Mine was made/sold by ATD

the number 3 adapter in the picture has been used as a hand tool with a hammer. The part that is supposed to screw on to the slide hammer is all mushroomed out from hammer blows. The adapter with the chain and the hook has been MIA for at least 20 years and the screw tip has been gone longer than that. I still have all of the angle tips and I picked up a MAC 10 lb slide hammer at a yard sale with just the heavy 90 deg angle tip. I still used mine relatively often. Lately it's main use has been to get wheels loose that are stuck on spindles or axles. Works great for that.

Apparently they are still selling the exact same 10 lb slide hammer set up I bought more than 45 years ago.

[Len]

That is a great price, Len. I believe I paid more than that for mine 45+ years ago. Mine was made/sold by ATD

the number 3 adapter in the picture has been used as a hand tool with a hammer. The part that is supposed to screw on to the slide hammer is all mushroomed out from hammer blows. The adapter with the chain and the hook has been MIA for at least 20 years and the screw tip has been gone longer than that. I still have all of the angle tips and I picked up a MAC 10 lb slide hammer at a yard sale with just the heavy 90 deg angle tip. I still used mine relatively often. Lately it's main use has been to get wheels loose that are stuck on spindles or axles. Works great for that.

Apparently they are still selling the exact same 10 lb slide hammer set up I bought more than 45 years ago.

We have the same one in our shop, it still hangs on the board like you show and it also comes with the option of a carrying case shown below. Either way it costs $215.

[Phil V]

We have the same one in our shop, it still hangs on the board like you show and it also comes with the option of a carrying case shown below. Either way it costs $215.

That 10 lb slide hammer kit has paid for itself hundreds of times over the years. It works in situations where no other tool in the shop works. A couple weeks ago my neighbor across the street was switching to winter tires and wheels on his BMW and couldn't get one wheel off the front axle/spindle. He came over to see if I had a way of getting the wheel off. I handed him the 10 lb slide hammer and told him you have to slide it pretty hard. He used the slide hammer with a rag protecting the wheel. Rapped it twice and the wheel popped right off.

My favorite use of the 10 lb slide hammer was for pushed in rear wheel openings. It walked those dents right out. The next best use would be when you weld on tabs of metal to pull damage out. I have a pinch clamp that I attach to the welded metal tab, a small length of chain through the eye hole on the pinch clamp to the curved end on the 10 lb slide hammer. Works like a charm.