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Thread: next steps

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Any area that you did not give tooth to the surface for a mechanical bite under the filler I would quickly DA back down to the surface with 40g. When it is back down to metal sand that area with 80g and re-apply filler and block out. Myself and bmarler will normally epoxy prime before applying filler, after filler is applied and blocked out several times with guide coat we worked out to 320g and lock that in with a final coat of epoxy as a lot of our projects may sit in epoxy for some time before we are ready to apply final finish coatings. There are just as many people who elect to skip first primer and go straight to filler and finish with epoxy which is just fine.
    I highly suspect Len doesn't final epoxy because he is a production shop where they go front to back, pretty much non-stop. Len correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing after all filler and block work is completed you go straight to sealer (if needed), followed by bc/cc all in the same session. If it takes me several weeks before I'm ready to top coat I don't like parts stored in the filler state only for fear of contamination.
    For several months now I have been using Optex 4:1 hb primer/filler that is a dtm product. The Optex is fairly new to the market and introduced at SEMA last year. I really like this product and it has cut my epoxy primer use down to almost nothing. After going through a few cases of the Optex I now have a system down for it's use and am going to stick with this method.
    filler contamination is a real concern for stuff that sits in the shop for extended periods. if i'm not ready to cover it with something i'll cover the car with that thin masking plastic.
    ronf, i'm interested in hearing your sequence using the optex. i've been on the fence about it as i'm comfortable with my current plan. i'm imagining the optex method would be something like cover the car with optex, guide coat and block, work individual areas with filler, 2k prime/seal or epoxy prime/seal, paint.
    or the other scenario would be filler to bare metal, optex, guide coat and block, seal, paint.
    i'm not sure how well the optex does uncovered in the shop for extended periods. is it prone to absorb contamination?

    marten, when you apply your first pass of filler, make sure you press it in really well so it fills those 80grit scratches. that's what gives you the mechanical bond. always sand each coat of filler before applying more. i try to have my last pass of filler cover the entire area so when i block it down the surface is all fresh material, it tends to sand more evenly than putting new filler in the middle of a repair and trying to sand new and old at the same time. don't worry if you burn through to other layers, that's inevitable, but starting fresh is best for the final pass. (for me at least)
    b marler

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Kemptville, Ontario
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    49

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    As others have suggested, I sanded down the filler to bare metal and redid my work. I am trying to understand what is next. Please bare with me, even some of the terminology is confusing me. I have the filler sanded down with 80 grit.
    What's next?
    sand with 120, prime, metal glaze to fill scratches, prime again
    Sand with 120, metal glaze, sand with ?, prime
    metal glaze, sand with 120, prime
    I am using epoxy primer, so I want to be efficient with that as well, keeping my cost in check. if I sand it all off that seems like a waste to me.

    Confused and a bit overwhelmed.
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    42,786

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    As others have suggested, I sanded down the filler to bare metal and redid my work. I am trying to understand what is next. Please bare with me, even some of the terminology is confusing me. I have the filler sanded down with 80 grit.
    What's next?
    sand with 120, prime, metal glaze to fill scratches, prime again
    Sand with 120, metal glaze, sand with ?, prime
    metal glaze, sand with 120, prime
    I am using epoxy primer, so I want to be efficient with that as well, keeping my cost in check. if I sand it all off that seems like a waste to me.

    Confused and a bit overwhelmed.
    We normally finish our filler with 220 then prime it with a decent filler primer (not epoxy primer) then guide coat, block sand with 400 or 600 grit then paint.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    like len says, finish with 220 grit.(or 240) i usually do first pass with 80 grit, switch to 180, finish with 220. be sure you leave enough filler on the first passes so there's something to remove with the finer grits.
    everyone seems to have different ways of finishing the filler work, and there's good reasons for each way. you can glaze before or after filler primer, or even before and after. glaze is for taking care of those scratch marks that didn't come out earlier.
    i usually go to epoxy, then filler primer after the final pass of 220 grit on the filler. block the primer and glaze if needed. glaze isn't always needed, just have some around just in case.
    again, the second pass of epoxy isn't a must do thing, i just like to seal up the filler. i don't do production work so extra steps are no big deal.
    you need to get some 2k filler primer on hand, epoxy isn't the thing to use for blocking. epoxy is for sealing the surface either before or after filler work. confusing? not really, you just need to choose your method.
    if you do decide to epoxy before the filler primer bear in mind you can spray those in the same spray session. let the epoxy flash off and hit it with the filler primer.
    so again, my sequence would be epoxy over bare metal, filler work, epoxy to seal. 2k filler primer, block sand, 2k urethane seal or paint.
    if my 2k filler primer is pristine, i just go to paint. if i have color variations in the filler primer i'll use a 2k urethane sealer to even things out before paint.
    one more note on filler over epoxy, for best adhesion, the filler needs to be applied while in the recoat window of the epoxy. otherwise you need to scuff with 80 grit to make a good surface for the filler to adhere to.
    b marler

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    488

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    ...if my 2k filler primer is pristine, i just go to paint. if i have color variations in the filler primer i'll use a 2k urethane sealer to even things out before paint...
    What Urethane Sealer do you use?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    What Urethane Sealer do you use?
    Lately the transtar 6231. Thats the grey color I think. There's other shades too if you want to have darker or lighter. I've mixed them too with no issues.
    b marler

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