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Thread: Can M105 smooth this out?

  1. #1
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    Default Can M105 smooth this out?

    I had moderate orange peel on this vintage scooter part. I sanded the clear (Spraymax Glamour 2K)and got this far, I don't want to go further and risk damaging the underlying coat. I going to use Meguiars M105 with a wool buff and then follow up with M205 and a foam polisher and do a final with a finishing foam buff. Have I sanded enough or will I still have pockmarks?dots.JPG

    Also I've polished a few other pieces and they seem hazy to me, if anyone has suggestions on how to eliminate that I'd appreciate it. thanks

  2. #2
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    Nov 2013
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    Default

    You'll still see the peel if you polish now. You may need to add more clear to that before you're all done. When I used the spray max before, I let it sit longer than regular clear before wet sanding. It seems to stay soft longer. Probably due the the formulation to get it to spray out of a rattle can.
    If you think you're getting thin on the clear now I'd try to get it flat and add a few more coats.
    FYI, you can put that spray max in the fridge and it will hold for days after mixing. Just be sure to warm it up before use.
    b marler

  3. #3
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    Default Sandpaper grit related

    thanks for the quick reply. To get to this level i sanded with 1000 grit. I was going to resand with 1500 to get it to where the M105 would be effective (I was told it can remove 1200 grit sanding scratches. Could the haziness be that I need to sand with a finer grit than 1500?

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smahoneybev View Post
    thanks for the quick reply. To get to this level i sanded with 1000 grit. I was going to resand with 1500 to get it to where the M105 would be effective (I was told it can remove 1200 grit sanding scratches. Could the haziness be that I need to sand with a finer grit than 1500?
    You may be ok to continue to continue leveling with 1500 wet or finer then polishing. Be careful to remove the water while sanding so you only remove the texture and NOT continue sand or you could go through the clear. You could also finish sanding with 3000 grit so that the polishing would be a lot easier.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smahoneybev View Post
    thanks for the quick reply. To get to this level i sanded with 1000 grit. I was going to resand with 1500 to get it to where the M105 would be effective (I was told it can remove 1200 grit sanding scratches. Could the haziness be that I need to sand with a finer grit than 1500?
    possibly. i like to sand with 2500 or 3000 before compounding. i don't use 105 so i can't vouch for the scratch it can remove. the haziness can also happen when the clear is too soft to hold the gloss. like i mentioned, spray max can take longer to fully set than clear shot from a gun. i give it around 5 days or so before cutting depending on conditions. (like temperature) be sure you can press your thumbnail into it and not leave a mark before trying to polish it. being an aerosol, i apply four coats to ensure good film thickness after wet sanding.
    be careful when spraying that the surface of the part isn't too hot and that your distance from the nozzle isn't too great or you'll find the product either starts to dry out on it's way to the part or not wet out on the surface. it's almost impossible to apply without getting some peel but with care it will lay out good enough so it polishes up nicely.

    edit: i see len was typing at the same time. he's right about continuing with the 1500 till you get the peel down to an acceptable level before moving on to finer grits. you'll have a tough time getting out all the peel if you move to a finer grit now.
    b marler

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    You may be ok to continue to continue leveling with 1500 wet or finer then polishing. Be careful to remove the water while sanding so you only remove the texture and NOT continue sand or you could go through the clear. You could also finish sanding with 3000 grit so that the polishing would be a lot easier.
    I should have said that while you wet sand you cannot see your progress so use something to periodically remove the water to check your progress. I like using a rubber squeegee to wipe the water off then continue sanding.

  7. #7
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    Default You asked ?

    Quote Originally Posted by smahoneybev View Post
    I had moderate orange peel on this vintage scooter part. I sanded the clear (Spraymax Glamour 2K)and got this far, I don't want to go further and risk damaging the underlying coat. I going to use Meguiars M105 with a wool buff and then follow up with M205 and a foam polisher and do a final with a finishing foam buff. Have I sanded enough or will I still have pockmarks?dots.JPG

    Also I've polished a few other pieces and they seem hazy to me, if anyone has suggestions on how to eliminate that I'd appreciate it. thanks
    "Have I sanded enough or will I still have pockmarks?" Keep in mind, how much you can sand OFF gets determined by how much you've put ON. Also, how smooth the surface came out after your last coat of clear. If you end up with heavy orange peel for a surface or otherwise rough, you'll need more sanding. AND if you only have 2 coats of clear, you have an increased chance of either burning through your clear or not leaving enough clear on the base coat to protect against UV rays.

    You'll find that once you dial in your gun and paint mix along with technique you won't HAVE to sand & buff. I rarely colorsand anymore and I give thanks for that to LEN who hooked me up with the gun I use that he and other members swore by and now, I too can lay my clear down near perfect for an out of the gun job! As you work this work, and you have ANY question, just ask it. We're here 24/7.

    Henry

  8. #8
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    "Have I sanded enough or will I still have pockmarks?" Keep in mind, how much you can sand OFF gets determined by how much you've put ON. Also, how smooth the surface came out after your last coat of clear. If you end up with heavy orange peel for a surface or otherwise rough, you'll need more sanding. AND if you only have 2 coats of clear, you have an increased chance of either burning through your clear or not leaving enough clear on the base coat to protect against UV rays.

    You'll find that once you dial in your gun and paint mix along with technique you won't HAVE to sand & buff. I rarely colorsand anymore and I give thanks for that to LEN who hooked me up with the gun I use that he and other members swore by and now, I too can lay my clear down near perfect for an out of the gun job! As you work this work, and you have ANY question, just ask it. We're here 24/7.

    Henry
    The main problem is that the SprayMax is an aerosol can which doesn't lay the clear on as smoothly as a spray gun. The trick to getting a perfectly smooth clear coat is to put on enough clear that you can sand and buff it to a smooth finish.


  9. #9

    Default

    I have used gallons of M105. Here is the thing about spray max, in my experience, it doesn't cure very hard. A wool pad and 105 will burn that clear up if you're not careful. Try to sand as fine as possible. Megs 105 says it will take out 1200 grit scratches. I would sand gradually up to 2000 or higher grit just to make it easy to polish. The can's usually last a few days, if you have any left, spray more on, or start your progressive sanding now and see how it looks when it's done.

  10. #10
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    Nov 2005
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    Default OH!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    The main problem is that the SprayMax is an aerosol can which doesn't lay the clear on as smoothly as a spray gun. The trick to getting a perfectly smooth clear coat is to put on enough clear that you can sand and buff it to a smooth finish.

    Then what I said in Post #7 is without merit in this case. I was not considering a 'buzz bomb' spray clear (which may have it's place) just not in my point. Sorry for any confusion caused.

    Henry

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