TheCoatingStore.com

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: What To Apply To Evercoat Next?

  1. #1

    Default What To Apply To Evercoat Next?

    My '51 Ford wagon has been sanded to bare metal, for the most part, and completely surfaced with Evercoat Lite Weight filler 100156 and block sanded. I am wondering what to apply next over the Evercoat to give it corrosion protection before paint which will be single stage PPG acrylic enamel. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,549

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    My '51 Ford wagon has been sanded to bare metal, for the most part, and completely surfaced with Evercoat Lite Weight filler 100156 and block sanded. I am wondering what to apply next over the Evercoat to give it corrosion protection before paint which will be single stage PPG acrylic enamel. Any suggestions?
    Evercoat is body filler (bondo) and the metal should have some tooth (scratch) to it for the filler to bond well. Once the surface irregularities are leveled with the filler you can apply an epoxy primer over the surface then a filler primer which is guide coated and block sanded to give you a paintable surface.

  3. #3

    Default

    I have a gallon of Custom Shops Gray DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealer with reducer and hardener. Will that work for the second step? What filler primer do you recommend over the epoxy primer?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Yes, that will work. You can spray either Evercoats Slick Sand or Feather Fill (use a 2.0 or 2.2 tip) on top of the epoxy primer. Sand the SS/FF using a guide coat and your ready for sealer and single stage.

  5. #5

    Default

    Are we saying to use another sealer between the SS/FF and the single stage?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,549

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    I have a gallon of Custom Shops Gray DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealer with reducer and hardener. Will that work for the second step? What filler primer do you recommend over the epoxy primer?
    Yes that will work fine and a gallon of High Teck with hardener is a decent filler primer. At this time we sell the primer for $58 a gallon and the hardener for $29 a quart, you can probably use your reducer and don't forget the guide coat.






  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    26,828

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    Are we saying to use another sealer between the SS/FF and the single stage?
    Len and Ronf gave you excellent advice on the materials to use. So I'm going to focus on the single stage acrylic enamel you plan to topcoat your wagon with. . Why would you want to use acrylic enamel ?
    That is like 1970's paint that does not hold up well to the elements and doesn't hold up well to time, chips easy etc etc. On a scale of 1 to 10 with ten being the best I would give acrylic enamel a 2 and acrylic urethane a 10. NO good reason to use acrylic enamel (other than it's cheaper, not a good trade off).

    One last thing. You mentioned -- single stage -- acrylic enamel. Technically all acrylic enamel is single stage (with a clear built in). Additional clear coats are available for acrylic enamel but not necessary or needed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    15,679

    Default Enamel ?

    My buddy Phil beat me to it. I would suggest that for a Single Stage paint you consider Single Stage URETHANE. Cost would be similar but the paint is stronger with more UV protection and lasting GLOSS. Acrylic Enamel (AE) tends to dull within 6 months to a year and often will not buff back.

    If you have a reason why you selected AE, please let us know. If your vehicle will be a driver and be parked in parking lots with sun beating on it and exposed to the elements then AE should not be a first choice. Keep us posted.

    Henry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,549

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    My buddy Phil beat me to it. I would suggest that for a Single Stage paint you consider Single Stage URETHANE. Cost would be similar but the paint is stronger with more UV protection and lasting GLOSS. Acrylic Enamel (AE) tends to dull within 6 months to a year and often will not buff back.

    If you have a reason why you selected AE, please let us know. If your vehicle will be a driver and be parked in parking lots with sun beating on it and exposed to the elements then AE should not be a first choice. Keep us posted.

    Henry
    The thing to watch out for when spraying urethane with hardener is that you don't breath ANY of it. Purchase a "good" mask or use a supplied air breathing system when you shoot urethane, it contains very dangerous chemicals but it's some of the best paint you can use.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    Are we saying to use another sealer between the SS/FF and the single stage?
    not sure you got an answer to this. slick sand and feather fill should be covered either a sealer or good urethane primer (or both) before top coats. many people just thin their epoxy and seal with that but i prefer a dedicated 2k urethane sealer as it lays down super smooth and thin.
    b marler

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    Len and Ronf gave you excellent advice on the materials to use. So I'm going to focus on the single stage acrylic enamel you plan to topcoat your wagon with. . Why would you want to use acrylic enamel ?
    That is like 1970's paint that does not hold up well to the elements and doesn't hold up well to time, chips easy etc etc.
    The car is an all original 51 Ford Woody Wagon and one of the most original ones in the country and I plan to keep it that way. That's why I spent almost $1000 for two gallons of the original paint and color. The car will spend 98% of its time in an enclosed garage. The original paint lasted over 50 years so it will be fine.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    not sure you got an answer to this. slick sand and feather fill should be covered either a sealer or good urethane primer (or both) before top coats. many people just thin their epoxy and seal with that but i prefer a dedicated 2k urethane sealer as it lays down super smooth and thin.
    No, I am getting way too many coats of primer, sealers, etc. It's getting to be an overkill with prep products 1/2" thick. I am going with the thinning of the epoxy primer route. This is what I plan to use

    https://tcpglobal.com/products/gray-...RoCHh0QAvD_BwE
    Last edited by philipswanson; 08-08-2020 at 11:50 AM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    No, I am getting way too many coats of primer, sealers, etc. It's getting to be an overkill with prep products 1/2" thick. I am going with the thinning of the epoxy primer route. This is what I plan to use

    https://tcpglobal.com/products/gray-...RoCHh0QAvD_BwE
    Not sure I understand your 1/2" thick. How much Evercoat Lite Weight filler did you put on the vehicle? Here is a dog house I completed this week. I started with H&D work, 2 coats of Evercoat Rage Gold, sanded, 2 coats of Optex 4:1 primer/surfacer, sanded and 2 coats of epoxy primer. Using my paint mil gauge it measures 24 mil (.024). After I apply sealer, bc/cc I doubt it will exceed 35 mil
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (90.7 KB, 35 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.jpg (93.9 KB, 37 views)
    • File Type: jpg 4.jpg (85.6 KB, 34 views)
    • File Type: jpg 5.jpg (88.3 KB, 34 views)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by philipswanson View Post
    The car is an all original 51 Ford Woody Wagon and one of the most original ones in the country and I plan to keep it that way. That's why I spent almost $1000 for two gallons of the original paint and color. The car will spend 98% of its time in an enclosed garage. The original paint lasted over 50 years so it will be fine.
    Did they use acrylic enamel in 1951? That would surprise me. I can understand the desire to stay with original finishes, but you've already strayed from original by sanding off what the factory applied and used substrate products that weren't a available in '51. Why not use better topcoats too.
    Using single stage urethane puts the color right on top just like lacquer, enamel, or acrylic enamel would do. No one could tell the difference. I understand how marquee purists can be as I have a couple of coachbuilt lancia cars. There's a lot of pressure to stay true to factory specification. But nobody expects us to use paint products that are inferior to whats available today.
    Obviously your choice though, I'd love to see a picture of the completed project .
    b marler

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Not sure I understand your 1/2" thick. How much Evercoat Lite Weight filler did you put on the vehicle? Here is a dog house I completed this week. I started with H&D work, 2 coats of Evercoat Rage Gold, sanded, 2 coats of Optex 4:1 primer/surfacer, sanded and 2 coats of epoxy primer. Using my paint mil gauge it measures 24 mil (.024). After I apply sealer, bc/cc I doubt it will exceed 35 mil
    Great illustration, shows how much product ends up on the floor. If only we could just pay for what actually stays on the car, right?
    b marler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •