TheCoatingStore.com

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: fender lip repair help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    4

    Default fender lip repair help

    Hello, Im new to the forum and hopefully I could get some feedback or input on how to proceed with my dilemma. I have photos in the link below which show a fender lip cut out with tabs holding the metal away because otherwise the whole horizontal cut springs back toward the car approx 1/2''. In the other pic I have a panel over size cut in case I should install as is. The question is to cut out more original metal frpm the car to fit my donor panel or minimal patching by cutting the donor panel to fit only what needs replaced on the car? All suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks jim







    https://photos.app.goo.gl/DRXCVVdQSth2Ak9D9

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,078

    Default

    if it were me, i think i'd try to keep the weld in the radius area like your cutout. there's less chance of ghost lines showing in that area then the flat area above the lip. it will take careful grinding to get the shape right, and will need a little filler to fine tune.
    most important though, is to be sure the metal you're welding to is sound.
    b marler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,207

    Default

    I would want the seam up under the side molding if possible. That would hide any read-thru lines and make the repair a lot easier.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,078

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I would want the seam up under the side molding if possible. That would hide any read-thru lines and make the repair a lot easier.
    good call there len, i just wasn't sure if his repair piece was that tall.
    b marler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,207

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    good call there len, i just wasn't sure if his repair piece was that tall.
    Yep, I saw that also but I figured even if it was right below the molding it would still be best.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Yep, I saw that also but I figured even if it was right below the molding it would still be best.
    yes the replacement panel is cut to land in the middle of the fastener knockouts. I guess I would put a recess along the top of the panel and underlap to the car. I would recess the right vertical but then it will take out the slight contour, or curve. what do you guys think ?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,207

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 995jim View Post
    yes the replacement panel is cut to land in the middle of the fastener knockouts. I guess I would put a recess along the top of the panel and underlap to the car. I would recess the right vertical but then it will take out the slight contour, or curve. what do you guys think ?
    Yes, you can put in on a recess or use the backing strip method shown at he link below.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,078

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 995jim View Post
    yes the replacement panel is cut to land in the middle of the fastener knockouts. I guess I would put a recess along the top of the panel and underlap to the car. I would recess the right vertical but then it will take out the slight contour, or curve. what do you guys think ?
    I would butt weld that. Hopefully you can access the back side to hammer out the weld. If you can't do a butt weld for some reason, I'd use the backing strip method len described.
    b marler

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    I would butt weld that. Hopefully you can access the back side to hammer out the weld. If you can't do a butt weld for some reason, I'd use the backing strip method len described.
    no access from behind, but with a backing strip its still a butt weld, right? Is the backing strip for warp and alignment basically ?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,078

    Default

    The backing strip is good for preventing burn-through, helps eliminate pin holes, and just makes it easier to position the patch if it's not cut perfectly to size. You can plug weld the strip into position and then butt weld the patch. Since you can't get to the back side, be sure to use weld through primer on everything if you do a backer or lap joint.
    b marler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •