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Thread: Marten's '53 build

  1. #91
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    May 2020
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    Got the clear finish on my bed wood. 5 coats of spar urathane, thinned about 30%. Applied 4 coats with a cotton rag, sanded lightly only to remove dust nibs, then a final coat. Really smooth. Very happy with the final look, the wood came to life just like I hoped it would. Needs to be tighten down but will not change the way it looks.
    20210701_174431.jpg
    20210701_174447.jpg
    20210701_174500.jpg
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  2. #92
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    Nov 2005
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    That looks great. What's the cap in the middle?

  3. #93
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    May 2020
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    Thanks Len
    that cap is for the gas filler. I went with an under the box tank, thereby putting the filler neck in the box.
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  4. #94
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    Thanks Len
    that cap is for the gas filler. I went with an under the box tank, thereby putting the filler neck in the box.
    I knew what is was right away. It’s marine after all. Looks good in there though, where’s the vent located?
    The wood looks really nice marten, what brand of finish is it? I like the level of gloss you chose to do.
    b marler

  5. #95
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Wait, WHAT?

    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    Thanks Len
    that cap is for the gas filler. I went with an under the box tank, thereby putting the filler neck in the box.
    That WOOD project looks FANTASTIC!!!

    Now, you did what? You say you applied the CLEAR with a RAG? Can you share the details on that procedure, please?

    NO, I'm not doubting you at all, just like to know how you did what you did "with a cotton rag". Appreciate what you wish to share and thank you.

    What a nice job!!!

    Henry

  6. #96
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    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    That WOOD project looks FANTASTIC!!!

    Now, you did what? You say you applied the CLEAR with a RAG? Can you share the details on that procedure, please?

    NO, I'm not doubting you at all, just like to know how you did what you did "with a cotton rag". Appreciate what you wish to share and thank you.

    What a nice job!!!

    Henry
    Lol… Henry I’m with you on this, WTF a rag?

    I know products made for wood are different and can be brushed on with good results, but never heard of using a rag for the clear finish coat but…

    Marten,

    That wood came out looking absolutely beautiful and I agree with Marler, the sheen is just right!

    Curious, what made you choose this product over say using 2K HS Urethane Clear?

    Still want to know about the rag thing though… Lol

  7. #97
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    using a cotton rag is an old school way of applying finishes to wood furniture. it works really well for not leaving too much product in one coat, and won't leave brush marks. i apply stains and oils that way but haven't used the technique for clear. obviously as martens results show, it works well.
    b marler

  8. #98
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    May 2020
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    Kemptville, Ontario
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    Thanks bmarler, Henry and S-C
    I love your enthusiasm for what I am doing. you guys are way more responsive than the two other web sites I post on. I wish you guys live closer, I'd have you over for hands on guidance and help. That's what happens here if my kids come to visit. That in return for eating my food and drinking my beer.
    As for the products and process here we go.
    I used this for a finish. With the environmental laws the product although looks thin leaves brush marks when it dries. The manufacture can't add more thinners and can't tell you to do that either. So you end up with a not so great look when it's done. I thinned it about 30% or so. If you want to spray it, go 50% thinner. Just mixing a little bit at a time. If you were to make a big batch you will end up with dirt in it that you don't want. I used paint thinner but naphtha also works. Then take a cotton rag, in this case an old white t-shirt, well just part of one and fold it into a palm size package, say 6 lays thick or so. Take some paint thinner and soak it into the rag. Dip the rag into the thinned spar urethane and wipe it on. The key here is thin coats. The thinner will not harm the wood but allows the finish to flow better. I put on 4 coats, then sanded lightly using 220 grit paper, just to remove the dust nibs. Wipe down the board and put another layer of thinned urethane on. It takes 3-4 hours for each coat to dry. The stuff is smelly so make sure to have some fresh air available. A word of caution here, when you are done with the rag be sure to open it up and let it air dry before putting it in the garbage. Left wet and balled up could cause spontaneous combustion.

    S-C, I have never heard of 2K urethane clear. Sounds like an automotive product. Hence I did not look at it. When looking at what to use, I wanted an outdoor rated product, something along the lines of a boat finish. My search lead me to this product. More searching lead to this way of putting it on. It is glossy but not overly so and becomes plastic looking, really happy with it. If you wanted a more real wood look you could do satin which looks awesome for furniture but I wanted the gloss look to match the rest of the truck, once I paint it.
    20210708_194510.jpg
    Figures, another sideways picture, sorry. They are right on my computer
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  9. #99
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    i'm familiar with that product. they make good stuff. i've always thinned my spar varnishes with penetrol. in fact, i use straight penetrol for the first pass and let it soak in. second pass thinned 50%. third pass 25%, then thin as required. i think my way is a little thicker viscosity than what you're doing, but in the marine environment i'm looking for good film build.
    i'll give your technique a try on some interior wood i'm going to refinish and see how i like it.

    s-c mentions using automotive style products and that works very well too. 2k clears are really tough and adhere to wood no problem. i think i've heard len mention doing it too.
    b marler

  10. #100
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    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    S-C, I have never heard of 2K urethane clear. Sounds like an automotive product.

    Hi Marten,

    Yes, it is. You will become very familiar with it when the time comes for you to spray the finish topcoat on your truck.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    s-c mentions using automotive style products and that works very well too. 2k clears are really tough and adhere to wood no problem. i think i've heard len mention doing it too.
    Hi Marler,

    Yes, I do believe you are correct. I too remember Len mentioning his wife was into furniture refinishing adding art work etc. and he would shoot the finish clear for her. The finished product came out quite nice as I recall.

    I believe many custom guitar painters use 2k automotive clears as well.

  11. #101
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    May 2020
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    Kemptville, Ontario
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    With all the reworking going on and a constant desire to learn more, try something different, etc. a plan was hatched to build my own running boards. that and the fact that the fiberglass ones don't work with my rear fenders and there are a couple of small detail things I don't like about them. And now my wife continues to wonder why I bought this truck, keep changing it.
    First was to establish where I wanted to end. The brackets were bent from years of use I guess so a string line and shims were put to work.
    20210724_135017.jpg
    From there some CAD work was started
    20210724_142914.jpg
    Then transferred that to some metal I had bent up. At the same time I also welded in some angle pieces I had made up as well. The location was picked based on how the finish boards were to look as I needed some reinforcing, more later.
    20210731_122330.jpg
    In order to get the boards to the right height, after all shims were not going to cut it, I laid out some more angle.
    20210731_151357.jpg
    Once the heights were figured with them, checked and again, I welded them to the angles on the board. I also added some reinforcing at the ends were they met the fenders. They are back farther because I wanted the boards close to the fenders but I needed to have rubber mounting as well, hence the 1/2" gap you see. Does that make sence?
    20210801_171654.jpg
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  12. #102
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    May 2020
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    Kemptville, Ontario
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    Another view.
    20210801_102242.jpg
    From there I welded in some vertical pieces to close the gap between the boards and the truck.
    20210801_171723.jpg
    And mounted to the truck. 20210801_173210.jpg
    A couple of close ups
    20210801_173244.jpg
    20210801_173250.jpg
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  13. #103
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    May 2020
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    Kemptville, Ontario
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    Not 100% happy with the way the boards met here at the front and back. It will stay that way for now. I will come up with a plan this winter. The idea is to have it look as one. I didn't want to bend the steel any more as I like the way it is.
    20210801_173219.jpg
    20210801_173259.jpg
    The only thing not shown is the cut outs where the exhaust exits in front of the rear wheel. When I was building the boards, I didn't have them yet. Once I get them, I will cut them in.
    Someone smarter than me suggested I do the passenger side first that way if there is a boo boo, you don't see it as much. I didn't take pictures but that is what I did so you now see the good side. Actually both sides look great, IMHO.
    Now if you have read this far, I thank you. I do have one question. Where the vertical parts met the horizontal parts, what should I do with that joint? I have used seam sealer on other parts but am finding that is shrinks. I add more and it happens again, then it starts to look rough. If I could I would leave it just the way it is, is that an answer?

    Thanks for checking in.
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

  14. #104
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    i really like those marten, nice work! when you say CAD do you mean cardboard and duct tape? i do a lot of templates that way.
    i would definitely use seam sealer on that joint. there no other provision for keeping water out and seam sealer will make a nice little fillet there. you should look at the 2k fusor products. they are awesome for stuff like that. i haven't hade any trouble with them shrinking. i get extra mix tubes so i can cap it off between uses. len stocks it in the store too.
    i would seal all of the seams on those boards, every place you have an overlap or joint.
    b marler

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    19,136

    Default Nice!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    Not 100% happy with the way the boards met here at the front and back. It will stay that way for now. I will come up with a plan this winter. The idea is to have it look as one. I didn't want to bend the steel any more as I like the way it is.
    20210801_173219.jpg
    20210801_173259.jpg
    The only thing not shown is the cut outs where the exhaust exits in front of the rear wheel. When I was building the boards, I didn't have them yet. Once I get them, I will cut them in.
    Someone smarter than me suggested I do the passenger side first that way if there is a boo boo, you don't see it as much. I didn't take pictures but that is what I did so you now see the good side. Actually both sides look great, IMHO.
    Now if you have read this far, I thank you. I do have one question. Where the vertical parts met the horizontal parts, what should I do with that joint? I have used seam sealer on other parts but am finding that is shrinks. I add more and it happens again, then it starts to look rough. If I could I would leave it just the way it is, is that an answer?

    Thanks for checking in.
    There is just no stopping you! And I'm sure you will redo until you are happy.

    I'm leaning toward what bmarler said and I've used the FUSOR from LEN with great results. On products like that I DO NOT trust the aftermarket branded stuff.

    ONLY a thought but I wonder if WELTING material would work in certain areas of concern for you. It is something that's been used and proven in other areas so maybe... ?

    You sure have me beat as I just don't have the stamina that several of you have for THIS much thought & time. I mean, yes, I get the job done but you (and a few others) overextend the project for extended satisfaction (hoping that came out right!)

    HATS OFF TO YOU ALL! Isn't it GREAT how your mind can translate your hands to do the things we do (plus some those of YOU who take it way further!)

    Henry

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