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Thread: Help assessing this roof damage

  1. #1

    Default Help assessing this roof damage

    Hello. This t-top mr2 roof looks to have been sat on. I'm wondering how you guys would approach this. There are supports on either side of the panel that the metal has kind of been stretched over. There is access to the panel from the underside to get a dolly in, but there are structural supports on either end. What would do about the creases along the supports and the low spots on top of the supports. Would I try to pull those up with studs?

    I reckon after bringing up the lows I'll need to go over this panel with a shrinking disc?
    https://streamable.com/20b2h9

    Note the the creases along the edge of the supports, as well as the low spot inside the support.
    IMG_4978.jpg


    IMG_4976.jpg
    IMG_4977.jpg
    IMG_4979.jpg
    IMG_4980.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    2,065

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    Did you check to see if a skin is still available from the dealer, or even aftermarket? Did you check www.car-part.com for a used roof that you could take the skin off of? If the search box shows up donít hesitate to use it. Any yard that has that car will message you. A few years ago I was hired to drag a 1960 car from a local home to a scrap yard 200 miles away just so he could have it on hand for selling panels. Iíve not had much luck with a roof like that but I have replaced the panel which is surprisingly easy. Sorry I donít recognize the car from the photos.

    Bob K

  3. #3
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    Nov 2005
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    A good suction cup or glue puller along with some tapping can help put the metal close to were it belongs then grind and fill to complete the process.

    You could use a stud welder but you don't want to pull high spots that could make leveling a lot harder.
    Last edited by Len; 05-22-2020 at 05:32 AM.

  4. #4
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    Nov 2005
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    That damage goes way further than the green circle in the photo.

    For me the tool of choice would be a stud gun. You may or may not have to use a shrinking disc (nothing to do with the stud puller). If you do that job right most of that damage will come out without stretching metal. Without actually being there and feeling the damage with my hand there is no way to suggest a step by step repair. If the paint was smoother it would give a more accurate picture of the damage.

    One point that needs to be made is you have to be careful using a stud gun on roof panels because of insulation and sound deadening materials on the back side of roof panels. Starting a fire is possible. Proceed at your own risk. In most cases it's a major pain in the ass to drop down a headliner to asses possible things that could catch fire.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the feedback. It was surprisingly easy to remove the headliner on this 91 MR2, and there isn't any sound deadening between the headliner and the roof panel so I'm not too worried about starting a fire.

    Is there any other angle or photos I can supply you guys that might give a clearer picture? We're a bit of a ways away from feel-over-the-internet technology, and I'd imagine autobody work wouldn't be the the first industry to use it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by popcorncheese View Post
    Thanks for the feedback. It was surprisingly easy to remove the headliner on this 91 MR2, and there isn't any sound deadening between the headliner and the roof panel so I'm not too worried about starting a fire.

    Is there any other angle or photos I can supply you guys that might give a clearer picture? We're a bit of a ways away from feel-over-the-internet technology, and I'd imagine autobody work wouldn't be the the first industry to use it.
    If you have some good light I'd like to see what access you have from the inside.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    That is a lot of work..


    And it takes skill to straighten and return metal back as close as possible to original shape...

    This sort of job is tricky, few hits with a hammer in the wrong place and whole roof is drunk dancing underneath ...

    I say less is more here, gently gently push up or lightly tap with hammer..

    Glue pulling could work great here....

    So you can ďcheatĒ by adding sound deading adhesive pads to the panel underneath to avoid too much flexing and tension once metal work is done,,,,or glue up roof braces....

    Stud gun is a NO NO without removal of roof liner...

  8. #8

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    Len,
    Here's what the inside access to the roof panel looks like. Not the exact same car, but I found a good pic in white. There's no insulation there so I wouldn't imagine fire being too much of a concern.

    sw20.jpg

  9. #9
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    Nov 2005
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    It appears that some of the damage can be gently pushed back up from underneath and an some will need to be pulled up from the top. We would start by pushing up to see how much we could accomplish then grind off the paint and either fill the low areas or do some pulling with a stud welder before applying and leveling body filler.

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