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Thread: Time for paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    471

    Default Time for paint

    Finally finished up all the powder coat on my 36' chevy build. Now if I can get a few of you over here to help me pull the body I can finally paint my build. After 6+ years on this build it is finally coming down to the end, hard too believe.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Wow that looks great. I hope it runs and handles as good as it looks.

  3. #3
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    dang buddy, you do good work. if i were close i'd be over in a heartbeat to help lift that thing. i can't wait to see how the paint turns out.
    isn't it funny, how long most of us have been painting but it's still exciting to do the top coats? i'm always excited to see how it turns out, even after all those years.
    b marler

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    dang buddy, you do good work. if i were close i'd be over in a heartbeat to help lift that thing. i can't wait to see how the paint turns out.
    isn't it funny, how long most of us have been painting but it's still exciting to do the top coats? i'm always excited to see how it turns out, even after all those years.
    I couldn't agree more, in fact the waiting amplifies the anticipation of top coating. This is my "dream build", it's the one build I always wanted to do with no exceptions. After restoring countless cars over 40 years this is the one I wanted most and took my time on. I really appreciate yours and Lens comments, it makes the build that much sweeter!

  5. #5
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    Default MANY!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    I couldn't agree more, in fact the waiting amplifies the anticipation of top coating. This is my "dream build", it's the one build I always wanted to do with no exceptions. After restoring countless cars over 40 years this is the one I wanted most and took my time on. I really appreciate yours and Lens comments, it makes the build that much sweeter!
    Many of us have been following you since before what to use for fender 'welts'. Yes, yours is an interesting build and followed closely.

    As the saying goes with any gun, just SQUEEZE the trigger.

    Happy for you!

    Henry

  6. #6
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    Dec 2015
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Many of us have been following you since before what to use for fender 'welts'. Yes, yours is an interesting build and followed closely.

    As the saying goes with any gun, just SQUEEZE the trigger.

    Happy for you!

    Henry
    Thanks my friend, I appreciate your valued comments. Now, if I can just get you over here to help pull the body. I think I welded myself into a corner with all the extra floor support, but I will get it pulled somehow. Gotta love it when problems arise and tax your brain as it just screams custom.

  7. #7
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Gladly!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Thanks my friend, I appreciate your valued comments. Now, if I can just get you over here to help pull the body. I think I welded myself into a corner with all the extra floor support, but I will get it pulled somehow. Gotta love it when problems arise and tax your brain as it just screams custom.
    Myself and a bunch of other members here would gladly come to help you. There are alternate ways as well.

    How big is your garage; one or two car; how high is the ceiling? If that's out then:

    You can roll it outside to a wrecker with a BOOM (previously in place) and with web straps, lift the body off the frame.
    Roll the frame out of the way.
    Lower the body on roll able things you can fabricate.
    Roll body back inside.
    Roll frame inside or cover well elsewhere.

    You plan on taking the fenders, hood & doors off?

    Worse comes to worse, remove what you can and paint body on frame.

    You can always do as this guy did. Sort of crude but worked: Start @ 2:50 thru 4:50
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y99NDg6n-PU&t=3s

    (This was a severe rollover) But where there's a will, there's a way.) Notice what he uses to wheel the body around.

    (The good thing for you is you're currently around half the build time as it took our buddy "KevinInOhio" for his build in perfection...)

  8. #8
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    Nov 2005
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    Default For the LOVE of it...

    Thought I'd bring a bit of Kevin's 13 year build for you to see. It does get done and you guys get to stand back with PRIDE!!! (following copied from Kevin's posting on this forum)

    1941 Dodge WC40 Military 4X4
    This was a very long term project for me and first Base/clear and cut and buff I've ever done. Over 13 years and around 3000 hours and it's all done other than the interior which I am letting someone else do. I've made hundreds of pieces for this truck and a lot of it was stainless steel that I polished out. You can check out the build album for the detailed pics if you're interested:

    http://imageevent.com/kevininohio?n=0

    Red is Base/clear buffed out and the frame is Gloss black acrylic urethane out of the gun with no buff. Everything was painted in pieces and assembled later. The Red was done in 3 different painting sessions. I used a Devilbiss Plus gun from Len for all the spraying. On the cut and buff I did what worked best for me. I let the paint sit for 2 months and then started with 2000 grit wet with wood paint stick backers. If I could, I used an Airvantage with 3000 ater that. A lot of this was rubbed out by hand due to all the nooks and crannies and ridges. Where I could I went with an orange foam pad and buffed out with Roberts compound. Hand work was done with a cotton rag and tired fingers I'm VERY happy with the results and it is flat!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    471

    Default Kevins build

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Thought I'd bring a bit of Kevin's 13 year build for you to see. It does get done and you guys get to stand back with PRIDE!!! (following copied from Kevin's posting on this forum)

    1941 Dodge WC40 Military 4X4
    This was a very long term project for me and first Base/clear and cut and buff I've ever done. Over 13 years and around 3000 hours and it's all done other than the interior which I am letting someone else do. I've made hundreds of pieces for this truck and a lot of it was stainless steel that I polished out. You can check out the build album for the detailed pics if you're interested:

    http://imageevent.com/kevininohio?n=0

    Red is Base/clear buffed out and the frame is Gloss black acrylic urethane out of the gun with no buff. Everything was painted in pieces and assembled later. The Red was done in 3 different painting sessions. I used a Devilbiss Plus gun from Len for all the spraying. On the cut and buff I did what worked best for me. I let the paint sit for 2 months and then started with 2000 grit wet with wood paint stick backers. If I could, I used an Airvantage with 3000 ater that. A lot of this was rubbed out by hand due to all the nooks and crannies and ridges. Where I could I went with an orange foam pad and buffed out with Roberts compound. Hand work was done with a cotton rag and tired fingers I'm VERY happy with the results and it is flat!
    Henry

    You have mentioned Kevins build to me before and I mistook him for someone I knew and I apologize for that. I followed your link to Kevins build as well as his build on Autobodystore forum, Imagevent and his YouTube video, I now realize what you were trying to show me. Wow, Kevin and I do have a lot in common, I can really appreciate all his custom work and effort as he is a true artist. What most people will never know or see are all the many, many small items that were custom made and reconfigured to make this build possible. A typical restoration for body work, motor, etc. are very labor intense and hard but when you get to a show quality level of a restoration that requires countless hours of custom work it is a whole new animal (haven't a clue why I am telling you this as you have already been there and done that). Thanks henry for once again pointing me towards Kevins build, I finally get what you were trying to show me.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    471

    Default Shop

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Myself and a bunch of other members here would gladly come to help you. There are alternate ways as well.

    How big is your garage; one or two car; how high is the ceiling? If that's out then:

    You can roll it outside to a wrecker with a BOOM (previously in place) and with web straps, lift the body off the frame.
    Roll the frame out of the way.
    Lower the body on roll able things you can fabricate.
    Roll body back inside.
    Roll frame inside or cover well elsewhere.

    You plan on taking the fenders, hood & doors off?

    Worse comes to worse, remove what you can and paint body on frame.

    You can always do as this guy did. Sort of crude but worked: Start @ 2:50 thru 4:50
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y99NDg6n-PU&t=3s

    (This was a severe rollover) But where there's a will, there's a way.) Notice what he uses to wheel the body around.

    (The good thing for you is you're currently around half the build time as it took our buddy "KevinInOhio" for his build in perfection...)
    Henry,

    My shop size is not the problem on the body lift. On this build all the floor pans and floor supports were cut away prior to me purchasing the car, which as you know makes for a tough body alignment to chassis issue. As I was going to install an LS based motor with 500+ hp and wanted to obtain the original chassis and body I had to beef up the original frame and body supporting structure to accommodate the LS HP. However, Chevrolet was still using wood for their core structure support in 36' so I cut the original chassis apart, reconfigured the KY frame to accommodate the LS motor along with the 4l60e trainy and boxed the entire chassis before reassembly. For the body supporting structure I used 1" x 3" metal tubing to replace the original wood main and cross sills, this is where I am at a dilemma on where to attach body supports for the lift. It will take some thought but I have no doubt I'll get this body off the chassis, painted and reassembled. The good news is I have an extra 36' chevy Master De lux chassis I can set this body on for paint, all the while finishing the reconfigured chassis form paint. Pics attached.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 5.jpg (91.5 KB, 50 views)
    • File Type: jpg 4.jpg (93.0 KB, 46 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.jpg (92.1 KB, 46 views)
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (96.1 KB, 49 views)
    • File Type: jpg 5a.jpg (89.4 KB, 51 views)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    471

    Default Upholstery panels

    Since I am still struggling on exactly how to pull the body for both frame and body paint I decided to go ahead and fab the inside body panels for the upholster, all the while insulating behind these panels with "Hushmat". When doing a frame off restoration there are a few monumental times in the build that are very meaningful to the builder, i.e., first time engine start, paint, etc.. On this occasion it is the sweet sound of insulating the door panels, kick panels, bulk heads, etc. and hearing that "thud and click" when the door shuts. Damn I do love that first time sound on a project like this.

    Henry, on your suggested video for pulling the body I bought 4 ea. 10k ratchet straps to hang from my shops rafters in order to pull the body. I "think" this is the way to go after I can find the appropriate attachment points (still can't believe I welded myself into a corner).
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 5.jpg (85.7 KB, 25 views)
    • File Type: jpg 4.jpg (93.3 KB, 27 views)
    • File Type: jpg 3.jpg (91.8 KB, 27 views)
    • File Type: jpg 2.jpg (90.0 KB, 24 views)
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (91.0 KB, 25 views)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    990

    Default

    seems like the shell should be strong enough to put a padded strap around the a and b ( or c) pillars and use those straps. i'd be looking at the rafters the whole time too. if they seem weak you can add a doubler to the bottom chord to boost the load rating.
    since you're a good fabricator, the worst case scenario would be to weld up a pair of a-frame gantry cranes on wheels. i have one that bolts together so i can move it into a room and assemble it where needed.
    b marler

  13. #13
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    Nov 2005
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    14,503

    Default Wait - What ?

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    seems like the shell should be strong enough to put a padded strap around the a and b ( or c) pillars and use those straps. i'd be looking at the rafters the whole time too. if they seem weak you can add a doubler to the bottom chord to boost the load rating.
    since you're a good fabricator, the worst case scenario would be to weld up a pair of a-frame gantry cranes on wheels. i have one that bolts together so i can move it into a room and assemble it where needed.
    You know what? You two guys are dangerous!

    "since you're a good fabricator, the worst case scenario would be to weld up a pair of a-frame gantry cranes on wheels."

    All we need now is for "Kevin" to join in!

    Carry on, gentlemen!

    Henry

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    485

    Default Very Nice!

    Ron,

    That is AWESOME, I am always impressed by you guys that can do these full builds. Sharp car, can't wait to see more.

    ...The good news is I have an extra 36' chevy Master De lux chassis I can set this body on for paint, all the while finishing the reconfigured chassis form paint...
    That is such a car guy thing to say!!! "I have an extra..."

  15. #15
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    Nov 2005
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    41,717

    Default

    Ron do you have any helpers. If I didn't have help I couldn't do half of what I do.

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