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Thread: Looking for a Budget sandable primer and input.

  1. #16
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtremekustomz View Post
    It's the best primer I've ever used honestly. It is 100% dtm unlike many others. It sands great and costs around $115 or so I think for a gallon. I do a lot of small parts mad have been using their 30 minute clear and absolutely love it. Since I paint mostly in my garage out of dust is crucial for me. Being able to sand and buff in 30 min is nice. I've used all of their clears except for the 2021 and really like them as well. Lots of people switching over from PPG because the quality is the same if not better and price is really good. You could probably contact them and they will send you a qt for free to try out.
    good stuff, thanks. i will give them a try next time i need some, the price seems pretty good. the 30 minute clear also sounds interesting. i'll be a little suspect till i see it for myself though. i'll give it a go on some small stuff and see what i think.
    b marler

  2. #17
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by baubau View Post
    Upol primer 2025 dtm is awesome for restoration...
    Also Automotive Art dtm primer..

    I have been using Pure Reflections dtm primer that is high build and applied with 1.3 or 1.4 tip gun....yes, I didn’t believe it until I tried it, sprays like sealer or base coat and leaves high build finish...4:1 mix no reducer so less reactions, no sinking, minimal shrinkage...

    The best primer for collision work I have ever used,,...an eye opener..,,sands so easy and lays smooth ,saves hours...
    hmm, more good info. so many choices. the pure reflections sounds a bit like a unicorn, can one primer be all that?
    b marler

  3. #18
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    Mar 2007
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    bmarler, it is not a sealer...

    for my purposes, collision work, controlled applicstion , thin coats that become high build, yet manage with fine atomization to avoid primer lines into blend zone....yes, this is the best primer for me..

    ant since it does not need reducer, less chemical reactions.

    for restoration work, i dont know...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by baubau View Post
    bmarler, it is not a sealer...

    for my purposes, collision work, controlled applicstion , thin coats that become high build, yet manage with fine atomization to avoid primer lines into blend zone....yes, this is the best primer for me..

    ant since it does not need reducer, less chemical reactions.

    for restoration work, i dont know...
    I've never used that product but I can tell you that many low cost products already have the reducer added, that's why they are low cost. I don't understand how it can be high build and be sprayed using a 1.4 fluid tip, that would mean that it's a fairly thin primer.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    415

    Default High build primer

    I don't generally comment on products I have no experience with but here are a few observations I made when comparing the TDS on this product to Slick Sand. Pure Reflections TDS calls for Applying 2 – 3 even, full wet coats, at a gun distance of 5” – 7” inches, while SS calls for Applying 2-3 medium wet coats, this tells me the Pure Reflections may have less filler and more primer (hence the DTM). SS has a pot life of 45 minutes (good luck with that), while on the PR it states 1 hour. After going through all the comparisons it seems to me the PR may have quite a bit less spray filler in comparison to SS which should allow for a reduced tip. Too me the problem is there is no industry standard, or at least to my knowledge there isn't, what constitutes a HB primer. Maybe they should call the PR a medium build primer? On the right project I can see trying the Pure Reflections if there is some data that shows how it holds up long term.

  6. #21
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    good stuff, thanks. i will give them a try next time i need some, the price seems pretty good. the 30 minute clear also sounds interesting. i'll be a little suspect till i see it for myself though. i'll give it a go on some small stuff and see what i think.
    I've used quite a bit of the 30 minute clear. It's my favorite one since I do mainly small parts (fenders, bumpers, mirrors etc). It's extremely durable as well. I was denibbing a set of mirror covers about an hr after I sprayed them and was using my buffer. It grabbed the part out of my hand and threw it on the concrete and it didn't have a scratch on it.

  7. #22
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    I don't generally comment on products I have no experience with but here are a few observations I made when comparing the TDS on this product to Slick Sand. Pure Reflections TDS calls for Applying 2 – 3 even, full wet coats, at a gun distance of 5” – 7” inches, while SS calls for Applying 2-3 medium wet coats, this tells me the Pure Reflections may have less filler and more primer (hence the DTM). SS has a pot life of 45 minutes (good luck with that), while on the PR it states 1 hour. After going through all the comparisons it seems to me the PR may have quite a bit less spray filler in comparison to SS which should allow for a reduced tip. Too me the problem is there is no industry standard, or at least to my knowledge there isn't, what constitutes a HB primer. Maybe they should call the PR a medium build primer? On the right project I can see trying the Pure Reflections if there is some data that shows how it holds up long term.
    When it comes to "high build" it's like "high solids." Some company say hogh solids at 44% in which others consider that as medium.

  8. #23
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    Mar 2007
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    Len, I didn’t believe it until I tried it...ppg had similar product years ago but it didn’t become popular...similar chemistry..

    This is low viscosity high built pad 4:1 no reducer....i use tekna gun with 1.4 tip....


    Slick sand is a different animal,it is super high build, in Europe it is called sprayable putty...

    I used it only twice, for a Corvette body and one overall paint job to fill out imperfections....


    I will post a picture of all the primers that I have in th shop...I get them for cheap to test them out, no fear...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Thought I'd give an update and thanks to all who offered insight.





    Ended up getting a gallon of the Primer Len referred to and rolled it on.





    Was pretty thin and the 2 coats I put on were pretty rough. Filled stuff in and sanded nice but after blocking to the lows, there wasn't much left.



    I then rolled on 2 coats of color w/hardener and let sit a day between coats. It laid out smoother but still rougher than I hoped. Some of the brushed areas on the inside I did laid like glass but the roller tends to whip some air in which you have to brush over while drying. Roller gets an even coat at least so you don't get runs.



    I let it cure a little over a week and I started the cut and buff today. Since it was so rough I started with 600 to get the majority of faster. Stopped when I had an even pattern of a few lows and then finished with 2000. I went to use the 3000 grit 3M trizact discs and sander I got from Len for my show truck and was quickly disappointed. I loved this stuff when I did my show truck and think it took 3 or 4 discs to do the whole truck to a show finish. I guess this stuff has a shelf life as I get about 1 minute out of a disc before it delams and goes to pieces. No fault of Lens and not meaning that. Just disappointed in 3M as this stuff is not cheap and I had bought a whole box. I figured I could always use it later but that was a mistake and now I don't want to by another whole box for this. Makes a lot more work for sure. The buffing compound I got from Len works great as always but I'm asking more of it without the trizact getting it so close.

    Again, this was just an experiment as it will be a wood hauling truck. I would NOT do this on something that I'd want perfect but $30.00/gal + hardener, with no overspray mess, makes it an option for something that the squirrels will look at. LOL This is under Shop lights and the camera makes it look grainy, which it is not. Plenty of flaws though as I didn't bother Blocking every tiny low to flat. Just takes more paint away and for what gain in this case.

  10. #25
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    Nov 2005
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    41,186

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    It must be the paint because we use a lot of the 3M 3000 with no problems however I do agree that they are overpriced.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    It must be the paint because we use a lot of the 3M 3000 with no problems however I do agree that they are overpriced.
    I looked and it has been about 12 years. Had a test piece left from the earlier truck project that I used to practice spray and buff. It was all PPG high end. products The trizact lasted the same on it, about 1 minute at almost the lowest setting on the orbital. Got about 3 left that are unused if you want to try. LOL I had the same luck buying DA pads as the cushion foam breaks apart and ends up throwing off the whole surface. A lot of sanding belts are the same way after sitting a while. Lesson learned is to not buy ahead on that stuff.

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