TheCoatingStore.com

Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Heavy oxidized paint buffing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    24

    Default Heavy oxidized paint buffing

    I just bought a used 24' enclosed trailer for my car. It has screw less panels. It is oxidized black panels. It looks flat black. I did a 4' x 4' sections came out great. Nice and glossy again. I used an orange foam pad that Len use to sell with Mystic cut. Problem is how black the pad got. Is there a better pad for this? How often do I have to clean the pad? How about the aluminum, is there a good pad to polish aluminum?
    Keep in mind this is painted aluminum panels on a car trailer so paint will not be to thick.

    Not looking forward to buffing something this size.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    41,222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smike View Post
    I just bought a used 24' enclosed trailer for my car. It has screw less panels. It is oxidized black panels. It looks flat black. I did a 4' x 4' sections came out great. Nice and glossy again. I used an orange foam pad that Len use to sell with Mystic cut. Problem is how black the pad got. Is there a better pad for this? How often do I have to clean the pad? How about the aluminum, is there a good pad to polish aluminum?
    Keep in mind this is painted aluminum panels on a car trailer so paint will not be to thick.

    Not looking forward to buffing something this size.

    Thanks
    I like using that orange pad and you can rinse it with water in a bucket to help clean out some of the black. We also use wool pads but they will tend to leave more swirls than the foam. Wizard's Mystic Cut is our favorite compound.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    24

    Default

    I ended up having to hit it with some 3000 grit first. Which took the dead layer of paint off. A wool pad worked better than the foam. Still using the mystic cut. Trying to decide on a good wax to finish it off. This going to take a few weeks.

    The pic shows the final result on the left and the right is what I started with.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    285

    Default WOW

    Looks new.............I know it's a lot of work

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13,792

    Default Let me echo...

    I will echo what tommie.b said:

    "WOW
    Looks new.............I know it's a lot of work"


    Also, that ORANGE pad is of special blend - not soft foam. A great tool.

    Henry

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    24,559

    Default

    An equally important question is what to do to keep the paint from "dying" again. That oxidized paint is the result of UV rays from the sun destroying the outer layer of the paint. Ideally you would urethane clear coat the oxidized black paint after proper sanding. If you don't stop the oxidizing process then the buffed out panels will turn flat black again.

    Short of clear coating I guess the next best thing is regular applications of a good carnauba wax.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    914

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smike View Post
    I ended up having to hit it with some 3000 grit first. Which took the dead layer of paint off. A wool pad worked better than the foam. Still using the mystic cut. Trying to decide on a good wax to finish it off. This going to take a few weeks.

    The pic shows the final result on the left and the right is what I started with.
    looks great! for protection, look at a product called rejex. i use it on my boat and it holds up well in the harsh marine environment. i apply it with a random orbital and that same orange pad.
    when fighting heavy oxidation like that the wool pad is great for getting the bulk of the work done, but finishing with the orange pad really reduces the swirl.
    b marler

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    24

    Default

    I finished one side. Ended up wet sanding it with 1200 to get to good paint. The wool pad did leave swirls. Noticed it last night with the outside lights on. Now I have to hit it with a foam pad for the swirls. Black sucks.
    The more I work on this the more I think I should have spent the money on a new one. But with the options it has (extra height, aluminum wheels and finished interior with cabinets and electric) that would have been an additional $7000. I bought it for $6000 which I thought was a good price.
    For the work I am feeling I should have just scuffed and shot with a single stage paint. Mabey if the paint gets bad again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13,792

    Default Hmmmmmmm...

    Quote Originally Posted by smike View Post
    I finished one side. Ended up wet sanding it with 1200 to get to good paint. The wool pad did leave swirls. Noticed it last night with the outside lights on. Now I have to hit it with a foam pad for the swirls. Black sucks.
    The more I work on this the more I think I should have spent the money on a new one. But with the options it has (extra height, aluminum wheels and finished interior with cabinets and electric) that would have been an additional $7000. I bought it for $6000 which I thought was a good price.
    For the work I am feeling I should have just scuffed and shot with a single stage paint. Mabey if the paint gets bad again.
    I just wonder ??? Here's a product Len posted for another person. I read entire page in the link. I would be willing to bet (a coffee) this stuff would work in your situation. Have a look: (It says, "Apply and Let Dry")

    https://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-CS.html

    Henry

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    41,222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    I just wonder ??? Here's a product Len posted for another person. I read entire page in the link. I would be willing to bet (a coffee) this stuff would work in your situation. Have a look: (It says, "Apply and Let Dry")

    https://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-CS.html

    Henry
    I just read (on that link) that this stuff is good on glass, plastic etc. So I sanded with 2000 grit wet on the L/H headlamp of this Jeep and sprayed it with the Clear Seal and it looks great, now we'll see how long it lasts. The good part is that it only took me 10 minutes.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    914

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I just read (on that link) that this stuff is good on glass, plastic etc. So I sanded with 2000 grit wet on the L/H headlamp of this Jeep and sprayed it with the Clear Seal and it looks great, now we'll see how long it lasts. The good part is that it only took me 10 minutes.

    that's exactly what i was thinking about doing with it.
    b marler

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    41,222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    that's exactly what i was thinking about doing with it.
    Well it didn't hold up well. It did a great job at first but now it's back to the dull sanding scratches. I'm going to do what works, sanding until the cloudiness is gone then clear using a high quality (Glasurit) clear.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    914

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Well it didn't hold up well. It did a great job at first but now it's back to the dull sanding scratches. I'm going to do what works, sanding until the cloudiness is gone then clear using a high quality (Glasurit) clear.
    ok then, thanks for updating the thread. i'll continue using clear coat for that as well. it was a good thought though.
    b marler

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •