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Thread: 36 Ford

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    that's what i do too, i like the black inner fender as it makes the wheels pop. i know however, there's a trend for guys doing restoration to shoot body color in there, maybe just so people see that it's been worked on i guess. i don't know if the hot rod guys are doing that too though, i'm kind of out of touch with that crowd unfortunately.
    bmarler,

    From what I have seen they do it to a personal preference, in other wards I've seen as many blacked out fender wells as I've seen bc/cc wheel wells. Only reason mine will be done in bc/cc is for convenience as the body will be pulled to shoot it. My 36' is now laser straight and ready for paint except for the last wet sand to 600g, it currently sits in epoxy primer. As soon as I get the wiring for ECM placement figured out I'll be pulling the body for paint as well as coating the frame with Por 15 black and underside of new floor pans in Zero Rust black. I'm still not sure how or where I'm going to mount the ECM and pierce the firewall, still scratching my head on this one. I have added so many mods to this build there is little room left to mount it. I could easily mount it mid ship but that would mean extending 80 wires to the engine bay and surrounding area, but it is an option. Your thoughts on ECM placement?

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    bmarler,

    From what I have seen they do it to a personal preference, in other wards I've seen as many blacked out fender wells as I've seen bc/cc wheel wells. Only reason mine will be done in bc/cc is for convenience as the body will be pulled to shoot it. My 36' is now laser straight and ready for paint except for the last wet sand to 600g, it currently sits in epoxy primer. As soon as I get the wiring for ECM placement figured out I'll be pulling the body for paint as well as coating the frame with Por 15 black and underside of new floor pans in Zero Rust black. I'm still not sure how or where I'm going to mount the ECM and pierce the firewall, still scratching my head on this one. I have added so many mods to this build there is little room left to mount it. I could easily mount it mid ship but that would mean extending 80 wires to the engine bay and surrounding area, but it is an option. Your thoughts on ECM placement?
    not being in touch with exactly what space you have available i only have a couple of thoughts. i like to place it somewhere protected. (obviously) inside the firewall behind a little custom panel to hide it would be nice unless there's too much hvac equipment in the way, or under the front seats depending on how much space is available, or if you need to access it regularly. i just like to provide a nice environment, like what i'd be comfortable in. less temperature swings, less humidity. (as if it will ever see a drop of rain...) i've also seen false floor installations that seem to work well. a little extra wire doesn't really bother me, just be mindful of the wire gauge for voltage drop.
    i'll have to go back and look at any pics you posted, maybe there's a clue.
    b marler

  3. #18
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    bmarler,

    Something you said hit a note that I've been thinking about "i've also seen false floor installations that seem to work well." Under dash is a no go with all the mods, hvac, conversion to electric wiper motor, radio, electric hood vent, etc
    Going to see what I can do with a false floor, thank you for your help!

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    not being in touch with exactly what space you have available i only have a couple of thoughts. i like to place it somewhere protected. (obviously) inside the firewall behind a little custom panel to hide it would be nice unless there's too much hvac equipment in the way, or under the front seats depending on how much space is available, or if you need to access it regularly. i just like to provide a nice environment, like what i'd be comfortable in. less temperature swings, less humidity. (as if it will ever see a drop of rain...) i've also seen false floor installations that seem to work well. a little extra wire doesn't really bother me, just be mindful of the wire gauge for voltage drop.
    i'll have to go back and look at any pics you posted, maybe there's a clue.
    bmarler,

    Went over the floors again and I just don't think it is going to happen with a false floor. I intentionally made my trainy tunnel removable to access shift linkage, gear indicator wiring and trans coolant lines for the 4l60e which takes away from making a false floor (or at least from what I can see) . Think I'm just going to bite the bullet on this and wrap my head around mounting the ECM mid ship. I am so dreading the 80 wire ECM wire replacement/extension.
    Here are a few pics of the floor pans and trainy tunneled I fabbed up. Behind the glove box sits the new Vintage Air blower which required me to cut the depth of glove box almost in half, so no go there either. Kick panel is too narrow to fit the ECM. The main and sub dash in the pics is absolutely full, I even had to write out an assembly procedure for myself as to be able to get everything back assembled after paint. If you happen too see something I missed for the ECM installation please give a shout.
    Len you can chime in here. As you just finished the 36' Ford maybe you see something I'm missing?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    bmarler,

    Went over the floors again and I just don't think it is going to happen with a false floor. I intentionally made my trainy tunnel removable to access shift linkage, gear indicator wiring and trans coolant lines for the 4l60e which takes away from making a false floor (or at least from what I can see) . Think I'm just going to bite the bullet on this and wrap my head around mounting the ECM mid ship. I am so dreading the 80 wire ECM wire replacement/extension.
    Here are a few pics of the floor pans and trainy tunneled I fabbed up. Behind the glove box sits the new Vintage Air blower which required me to cut the depth of glove box almost in half, so no go there either. Kick panel is too narrow to fit the ECM. The main and sub dash in the pics is absolutely full, I even had to write out an assembly procedure for myself as to be able to get everything back assembled after paint. If you happen too see something I missed for the ECM installation please give a shout.
    Len you can chime in here. As you just finished the 36' Ford maybe you see something I'm missing?
    i guess it would help to know the dimensions of the ecm. and did you leave the rec tube exposed underneath? i only ask as there's a fair amount of space between the longitudinal members. it's a tapered section and hard to say how much space is there but maybe with a bump up in the floor right in front of the seat it could fit? it could also give you a smugglers box on the other side if you made it symmetrical.
    but with that amount of messing around, you could probably just deal with the extra wiring...wiring doesn't bother me at all, we do big control systems for industrial equipment with miles of wire.

    never mind, i looked at the picture again. there's really no space there.
    b marler

  6. #21
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    Default Len

    Len,

    What did you do for fender welting, go back black, eliminate welting or paint?

  7. #22
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Len,

    What did you do for fender welting, go back black, eliminate welting or paint?
    Our customer gave the car to us without the beading and, now that he is doing the final assembly, he may install black or leave it out all together. The fenders fit real good and beading isn't really needed.
    Last edited by Len; 01-16-2020 at 06:25 PM.

  8. #23
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    Nov 2005
    Location
    Gresham, OR
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    As for the purpose of the vinyl section in the middle of the top, is there a wood substructure?
    The problem was technology in steel had not yet developed to permit large sheets of steel to be stretched enough to make an entire roof panel.
    By the late 1930's, the steel industry and the tool-die makers had developed the technology make steel that would stretch enough, and tools that could "work" the steel without splitting it, to the point were "turret tops" (one company's advertising name for the process) of one-piece steel could be used to make an an entire roof panel.
    Up thru the mid 1930's, car bodies were essentially stage-coaches, built as coaches had been build for hundreds of years. Wood frames with covering panels nailed on.
    The introduction of the all-steel body in the mid 1930's was a tremendous safety factor. It also saved a fortune in production costs, as you can build a much stronger body faster and cheaper out of steel sheets and stampings, then you can "building up" wood bodies.
    Took that from an online post in AACA Forums.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    bmarler,

    Went over the floors again and I just don't think it is going to happen with a false floor. I intentionally made my trainy tunnel removable to access shift linkage, gear indicator wiring and trans coolant lines for the 4l60e which takes away from making a false floor (or at least from what I can see) . Think I'm just going to bite the bullet on this and wrap my head around mounting the ECM mid ship. I am so dreading the 80 wire ECM wire replacement/extension.
    Here are a few pics of the floor pans and trainy tunneled I fabbed up. Behind the glove box sits the new Vintage Air blower which required me to cut the depth of glove box almost in half, so no go there either. Kick panel is too narrow to fit the ECM. The main and sub dash in the pics is absolutely full, I even had to write out an assembly procedure for myself as to be able to get everything back assembled after paint. If you happen too see something I missed for the ECM installation please give a shout.
    Len you can chime in here. As you just finished the 36' Ford maybe you see something I'm missing?
    Several months back bmarler was assisting me in trying to find a location to mount my ECU and the direction in which to route the main engine wiring harness on my 36' chevy coupe build where I installed an LS1 4l60e (marler, remember the smugglers box you suggested, lol...almost!). So, I wanted to give him an update and advise for those that have a passion for the 30's Fat Fender cars when installing a modern or high build LS motor. I had Speartech build me a custom wiring harness for this build that will route from midship on car, under floors, along chassis and back to high inner side of toe boards that will ingress too main body wiring harness. They were actually able to make this harness for me (too my specs) all in one in which the large coil and injector coil plugs were eliminated, making this a cool sleek harness and easy to hide (no, I am not a representative for their product, it just really helps this build to my design/vision). Think I'm excited after getting in this harness? WOW, I'm beside myself with anticipation of firing this motor. I will be running a main body wiring harness under dash and a sub body harness that sits midship right next to ECU. Lets all go for a ride!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
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    that's a very sexy setup you came up with. pretty nice that you were able to get the harness custom made to your spec too. most places are just happy to let the customer do all the "adjustments". having a clean, hidden harness is so cool, makes the engine bay really pop, i think. plus it's so much easier to keep clean.
    the smugglers box would have been fun, but what you have will be easier to access and less prone to be damaged. does the ecu run hot? i've seen some that run hot enough that you want to mount them to a metal surface. did you do the air gap on the plywood panels for sound insulation? the only thing you want to hear is that amazing exhaust note, getting rid of the rear wheel noise is a big plus.
    i'm excited for you buddy, nothing like the first startup of an engine you hand built. i love to do the actual building, but the first startup is always amazing. i always do it open header...so much adrenaline.
    b marler

  11. #26
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    that's a very sexy setup you came up with. pretty nice that you were able to get the harness custom made to your spec too. most places are just happy to let the customer do all the "adjustments". having a clean, hidden harness is so cool, makes the engine bay really pop, i think. plus it's so much easier to keep clean.
    the smugglers box would have been fun, but what you have will be easier to access and less prone to be damaged. does the ecu run hot? i've seen some that run hot enough that you want to mount them to a metal surface. did you do the air gap on the plywood panels for sound insulation? the only thing you want to hear is that amazing exhaust note, getting rid of the rear wheel noise is a big plus.
    i'm excited for you buddy, nothing like the first startup of an engine you hand built. i love to do the actual building, but the first startup is always amazing. i always do it open header...so much adrenaline.
    The double plywood serves a dual purpose, keeps the upholster from getting into my electronics and provides extra insulation against rear end noise and drone. The drivetrain and all related systems, brakes, coolant lines, hvac, etc. are 100% complete. The only part left is wiring. The more I looked at my reconfigured for 5 wire engine harness and knowing I would have to splice 80 wires to get the harness midship, the more I wanted a custom harness. Really glad I went this route as it will be a really clean installation.

  12. #27
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    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Lets all go for a ride!
    Hell to the yes!! Iím in! AND bringing Beer!

    Great work Ronf!!!

    First time Iíve seen inside this car, awesome! Love the dash work and the Chevrolet emblem in the lower right, nice touch!

    I too am very excited for you, soon all the man hours will pay off!

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    first startup is always amazing... so much adrenaline.
    Indeed!

    Ronf, you need to do a short video of the initial start-up for all of us (since we all canít go for a ride with you), would be awesome!

    Good Luck in your final stages completing this beauty!

    Oh, by the way, I took the liberty of naming her for yaÖ

    Ruby.jpg

  13. #28
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    Dec 2015
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    Default 36 Chevy dash

    S-C

    I love your enthusiasm for custom builds. Yes, this dash took the better part of a week to complete. As to not take away from Lens 36' Ford build I'll start a new post that shows how I rebuild the main dash and built the new sub dash. I really appreciate your comments and the beer is on me!
    Last edited by Ronf; 04-27-2021 at 03:04 PM.

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