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Thread: HD Road King repair and repaint project

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Now THAT sounds like a viable repair. I believe I will try that.
    And if that doesn't work THEN paint the entire surface. Let us know how it goes.

  2. #17

    Default Couple more questions:

    Will sign painter's enamel suchbas One Shot be OK under Urethane clear? I'm thinking that's what I'll use to touch up the black stripe before brushing on some clear to cover it back up and fill in the chip.

    Also, I plan to add a thin, bright red pinstripe to outline the thick, black ones. I've read somewhere on some forum that strioers like to strioe on sanded clear. So: just how much sanding and with what grit before striping?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Will sign painter's enamel suchbas One Shot be OK under Urethane clear? I'm thinking that's what I'll use to touch up the black stripe before brushing on some clear to cover it back up and fill in the chip.

    Also, I plan to add a thin, bright red pinstripe to outline the thick, black ones. I've read somewhere on some forum that strioers like to strioe on sanded clear. So: just how much sanding and with what grit before striping?
    As far as sanding goes I'd say to use some grit between 320 and 600 and only scuff slightly then clean it well. I've never cleared over One Shot so I'd do a little experimenting/testing to see if it's ok.

  4. #19

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    Thanks, Len. I did a little more digging online and found this on the 1shot website. Don't know why I didn't think to look there first!

    Clearing Over 1 Shot
    Can I clear coat over 1 Shot Lettering Enamels?
    Yes. It's important that your paint is completely dry prior to overcoating. We recommend that you use our 1 Shot #4007 Hardener, and wait at least 24 hours prior to clearing. Adding up to 20% Hardener, with no other reducers, will allow for overcoating with automotive type urethane clears after 24 hours. Always apply the first two coats of clear very light and dry when clear coating.


    There is all kinds of good info on the 1 shot website. They have some "tutorials," one of which covers striping and/or lettering on urethane base coat/clear coat systems. i'm glad I read it, because it instructs NOT to apply 1 shot directly on raw base coat. The base color can be drawn up into the 1 shot, changing the color of the stripe or letter, but also altering the appearance of the base. Removal or revisions are not possible in this case. So it instructs to apply a coat of clear first; then lightly sand or abrade the surface, and THEN apply "embellishments" before final topcoat clearing.
    Last edited by Northeastconfederate; 09-21-2019 at 07:40 PM.

  5. #20

    Default More questions

    I have some more questions. Well, maybe one question for now.

    The replacement saddlebags are 4 pieces: left bag; left lid; right bag; right lid. Each piece came from a different bike. So each piece is a different color. The bags are both a pretty dark, metallic blue; one has some factory graphics; one lid is also dark, I disremember what color exactly. The other lid is white - it's a pearl, I think. Has some metal flakes as well.

    The color going on is a dark metallic red. "Luxury Rich Red" is what HD called it. It's the same color shown on the bike in the pictures above.

    The question is: do I need to prime all the pieces prior to spraying the red? Or can I sand them and shoot the red right over the existing paint? Will the red look the same on top of the white as it will look on top of the dark blue?? The red is NOT a candy or pearl.

    I guess that was several questions...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    I have some more questions. Well, maybe one question for now.

    The replacement saddlebags are 4 pieces: left bag; left lid; right bag; right lid. Each piece came from a different bike. So each piece is a different color. The bags are both a pretty dark, metallic blue; one has some factory graphics; one lid is also dark, I disremember what color exactly. The other lid is white - it's a pearl, I think. Has some metal flakes as well.

    The color going on is a dark metallic red. "Luxury Rich Red" is what HD called it. It's the same color shown on the bike in the pictures above.

    The question is: do I need to prime all the pieces prior to spraying the red? Or can I sand them and shoot the red right over the existing paint? Will the red look the same on top of the white as it will look on top of the dark blue?? The red is NOT a candy or pearl.

    I guess that was several questions...
    If you are using a "good" quality paint you can usually get away with spraying two or three coats and the color will be the same no matter what the base color is. However if you're using a less expensive paint you should spray everything with an epoxy primer before spraying color.

  7. #22

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    Thanks, Len. The paint is from HD. All I know about it is that it's urethane base coat/clear coat, and the counterman recommended I use clear from my local supplier.

    I have to believe that the HD paint is good quality.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Attached is a photo of a relatively small chip and deep scratch in the clear on my gas tank. The clutch lever did this during a crash. There's no dent at all, but it took a chip out of the black pinstrioe also, leaving the base color exposed. Can I fix this? I figure I can touch up the black pinstripe pretty easily with a brush. But what about the clear? Can I sand it with some super fine sandpaper in that little spot and spray clear on that little area??
    Are you trying to fix the existing paint job or repainting the whole bike with a change of color?

    If you are wanting to fix that chip, I'd sand the whole tank to 800, shoot clear, sand again and start with that. Use good vinyl tape, 3m or FBS, the FBS tapes are awesome! Since it is a custom paint, you can change the design a little and not worry.

    Starting over fresh clear allows you to easily fix any screwups or change your mind without breaking into the BC and getting wrinkles (guess how I learned that!)

    Get a Iwata LPH-80 for the small work on the flames. Striping is an art that takes practice.

    If you are changing the color, then your just starting over and who cares about the chip?

    You can do it, I'm a weekend hack that just started painting a couple of years ago. But with these guys help (along with a lot of sandpaper!!) I have learned a lot and I'd have no problem attempting that paint job.

  9. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Are you trying to fix the existing paint job or repainting the whole bike with a change of color?

    If you are wanting to fix that chip, I'd sand the whole tank to 800, shoot clear, sand again and start with that. Use good vinyl tape, 3m or FBS, the FBS tapes are awesome! Since it is a custom paint, you can change the design a little and not worry.

    Starting over fresh clear allows you to easily fix any screwups or change your mind without breaking into the BC and getting wrinkles (guess how I learned that!)

    Get a Iwata LPH-80 for the small work on the flames. Striping is an art that takes practice.

    If you are changing the color, then your just starting over and who cares about the chip?

    You can do it, I'm a weekend hack that just started painting a couple of years ago. But with these guys help (along with a lot of sandpaper!!) I have learned a lot and I'd have no problem attempting that paint job.
    Thanx for your encouragement. To answer the color change vs repair question, I decided to stick with the same color. So, the tank will not get a full repaint. I'll fix the chip; then add a thin, red pinstripe outline all around the thick, black pinstripe, which was sprayed by the guy who did the paint job originally. You answered one if my next questions by saying sand the clear to 800.

    The mechanical repairs are pretty close to being wrapped up, so I'll be starting on paint pretty soon. Which means I have new questions.

    First one is: what grit paper should I use to sand the new (used) saddlebags and lids - each piece of which is a different color - to prep for shooting with epoxy primer and then the "Luxury Rich Red?"

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Thanx for your encouragement. To answer the color change vs repair question, I decided to stick with the same color. So, the tank will not get a full repaint. I'll fix the chip; then add a thin, red pinstripe outline all around the thick, black pinstripe, which was sprayed by the guy who did the paint job originally. You answered one if my next questions by saying sand the clear to 800.

    The mechanical repairs are pretty close to being wrapped up, so I'll be starting on paint pretty soon. Which means I have new questions.

    First one is: what grit paper should I use to sand the new (used) saddlebags and lids - each piece of which is a different color - to prep for shooting with epoxy primer and then the "Luxury Rich Red?"
    If you are painting over a decent existing paint job just wet sand using 600 grit and apply your paint. But if you are painting over a surface that needs primer you can sand with some 400 then prime and paint.

  11. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If you are painting over a decent existing paint job just wet sand using 600 grit and apply your paint. But if you are painting over a surface that needs primer you can sand with some 400 then prime and paint.
    Thanx. Pretty sure I can wet sand and paint.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Thanx. Pretty sure I can wet sand and paint.
    As long as the paint you're applying won't react poorly with the existing paint you should be OK.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Thanx for your encouragement. To answer the color change vs repair question, I decided to stick with the same color. So, the tank will not get a full repaint. I'll fix the chip; then add a thin, red pinstripe outline all around the thick, black pinstripe, which was sprayed by the guy who did the paint job originally. You answered one if my next questions by saying sand the clear to 800.
    For your tank, just scuff the entire tank with 800 - Lightly - and use scuffing paste. Then shoot the whole thing with clear, let the clear dry for a week then scuff and do your repair/mods or whatever you want to do. Light coats of clear at first around any chips where you are down to the base coat material.

    First one is: what grit paper should I use to sand the new (used) saddlebags and lids - each piece of which is a different color - to prep for shooting with epoxy primer and then the "Luxury Rich Red?"
    Like Len said, sand to 600, shoot some epoxy, you could follow up with some easy sanding high build after that if you want. Get it laser sharp!

    Then lay down your red base coat followed by your clear. Then scuff again and add some graphics, then more clear!

    Nice bike BTW.

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