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Thread: HD Road King repair and repaint project

  1. #1

    Default HD Road King repair and repaint project

    I recently crashed my 2002 Road King, which is Luxury Rich Red. It's a really nice, dark metallic red; it could be called burgundy. It has a cool flame job of my own design but not of my own execution. I am repairing this bike and am going to tackle the repaint myself. I have been teaching myself how to paint and have successfully done so on a couple of projects, one being a work truck tailgate that turned out reasonable well; and the other a fabricated bumper for the same truck. I think I'm going to change the color to Ember Red Sunglow, which HD came out with in 2012. I was working at a dealer selling bikes when this color came out, and found myself wishing my bike was that color. So, now that it needs paint anyway, here's my chance.

    This is expensive paint. It's a base of ember red; then a topcoat of candy red; then it gets cleared. My first question is: how much paint do I need to cover the whole bike? This includes front and rear fenders; gas tank; both side covers; both saddlebags and lids; a detachable fairing, tourpack, and fairing lowers. So really, I'm painting a full Electra Glide Ultra in terms of sheet metal and fiberglass that need painting.

    I will have numerous other questions as I go along. The one that comes to mind now is: How do I avoid tape edges when unmasking the flames? The fellow that did the flames in the first place didn't know how to avoid tape edges. It got cleared with those edges and it's bothered me ever since. That was nearly 10 years ago; I'm going to try to rectify that this time around.

    I'll post up a couple pics of the bike in pre-crash condition. And some progress pics as I go along. I'm disassembling and straightening what I can now, and waiting for parts to show up. Got used bags and rear crash bars on the way from the Left Coast (I'm on the East Coast) via ebay; some new parts from the HD dealer I deal with; and a few others I have yet to source.

  2. #2

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    20170702_155131.jpg20170702_155413.jpg

    This is it pre-crash, and with all the detachable stuff detached. Which is how I like it best, unless I'm on a road trip.

  3. #3
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    Cool looking bike!

    A quart of each color and a quart of clear should be plenty and you'll need enough hardener and reducer also. The amount of hardener and reducer will depend on the mixing ratio but a quart of each should do the job.

    I'd recommend a medium size gun for that project, something like the Sagola Mini Extreme would be about the right size.


  4. #4

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    Thanks, Len! For the info on quantity, the compliment and suggestion for a spray gun.

    Would you use that same gun for the flames, as well?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Thanks, Len! For the info on quantity, the compliment and suggestion for a spray gun.

    Would you use that same gun for the flames, as well?
    It could be used for flames when the different colors are masked properly but I'd probably use a smaller gun for most flame jobs even an air brush may be more appropriate.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    How do I avoid tape edges when unmasking the flames? The fellow that did the flames in the first place didn't know how to avoid tape edges. It got cleared with those edges and it's bothered me ever since.
    You can lightly sand the edges to make them a little smoother but you have to
    put enough clear on them to bury them completely.
    Most times I clear twice, once to sand it almost smooth, then clear again and level it
    before buffing.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCCLARK View Post
    You can lightly sand the edges to make them a little smoother but you have to
    put enough clear on them to bury them completely.
    Most times I clear twice, once to sand it almost smooth, then clear again and level it
    before buffing.
    Yes, unmasking then clearing then sanding and re-clearing is a good method for eliminating tape ridges and using a good quality paint for the flames can help with coverage so that a lot of coats won't be necessary.

    Don't try to eliminate the tape ridges when sanding the first coat of clear. You could sand through the clear exposing the color coat and that can cause complications.

  8. #8
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    One main contributor to visible paint edges is the amount of paint sprayed in that area. In other words the more paint build up you spray the more pronounced the visible paint edge will be. Moral to the story - don't spray any more paint than really needed when doing graphics.

    Use plastic graphics painting tape for all the edges that will be painted. Much better than regular masking tape.

    When you get ready to do the flames, let us know. I can give a some tips that should help on paint prep.

  9. #9

    Default Can this be repaired?

    Attached is a photo of a relatively small chip and deep scratch in the clear on my gas tank. The clutch lever did this during a crash. There's no dent at all, but it took a chip out of the black pinstrioe also, leaving the base color exposed. Can I fix this? I figure I can touch up the black pinstripe pretty easily with a brush. But what about the clear? Can I sand it with some super fine sandpaper in that little spot and spray clear on that little area?? 20190915_204820.jpg

  10. #10
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    I think that could be repaired. You would have to widen the black line a little bit but if done right with the right taper the repair would be close to invisible. If the existing black lines were all perfectly uniform then the answer would be no but the black lines are not uniform in how wide they are.

    Widen the black line a little and fill in the paint chip to the same height as the rest of the paint.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    I think that could be repaired. You would have to widen the black line a little bit but if done right with the right taper the repair would be close to invisible. If the existing black lines were all perfectly uniform then the answer would be no but the black lines are not uniform in how wide they are.

    Widen the black line a little and fill in the paint chip to the same height as the rest of the paint.
    So are you suggesting that I fill the chipped clear and black stripe entirely with black paint?

    Note the scratch in the clear as well, which is maybe 2" long. The big chip is about 2/3 of the way across the scratch. The clear has a ragged edge along this scratch.

    What I was thinking was first, sand the clear carefully to remove any loose edges and try to feather it back a little bit, both from the chip and the scratch. Then, repair the black line, keeping it at its current width. And then spray clear over the sanded area. Does this sound like a viable repair?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    So are you suggesting that I fill the chipped clear and black stripe entirely with black paint?

    Note the scratch in the clear as well, which is maybe 2" long. The big chip is about 2/3 of the way across the scratch. The clear has a ragged edge along this scratch.

    What I was thinking was first, sand the clear carefully to remove any loose edges and try to feather it back a little bit, both from the chip and the scratch. Then, repair the black line, keeping it at its current width. And then spray clear over the sanded area. Does this sound like a viable repair?
    You are not going to be able to feather edge that clear without damaging the silver or the black paint.

    I assumed that 2" scratch was just a scuff that could be polished out, based on what I could see in the picture. Your cheap easy fix just more complicated and no longer a cheap easy fix.

  13. #13

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    Gotcha. That scratch is definitely not going to polish out. It was scratched by the ball end of the clutch lever, so while it Didn't scratch through into the paint, the clear is "loose", or lifted a little bit in spots along that scratch.

    Thanks for your input. You just helped me make the decision to do a full repaint, which I had been thinking I could avoid after I was working on the bike yesterday.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate View Post
    Gotcha. That scratch is definitely not going to polish out. It was scratched by the ball end of the clutch lever, so while it Didn't scratch through into the paint, the clear is "loose", or lifted a little bit in spots along that scratch.

    Thanks for your input. You just helped me make the decision to do a full repaint, which I had been thinking I could avoid after I was working on the bike yesterday.
    If you don't want to repaint the entire surface you could mix a little clear and touch it up with a brush, allow the clear to harden then sand and polish or sand and re-spray the entire surface. If you do it this way don't add reducer to the clear. The clear will seal the edges of the existing clear and can be treated like clear body filler.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If you don't want to repaint the entire surface you could mix a little clear and touch it up with a brush, allow the clear to harden then sand and polish or sand and re-spray the entire surface. If you do it this way don't add reducer to the clear. The clear will seal the edges of the existing clear and can be treated like clear body filler.
    Now THAT sounds like a viable repair. I believe I will try that.

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