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Thread: Best clear gun under $300?

  1. #1
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    Default Best clear gun under $300?

    Time to move up from the Devilbiss Starting Line gun. I want to lay down the flattest clear coat I can for under $300. Using PPG Deltron BC/CC. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT99 View Post
    Time to move up from the Devilbiss Starting Line gun. I want to lay down the flattest clear coat I can for under $300. Using PPG Deltron BC/CC. Thanks!
    Good Luck with that, I've never seen a "good" clear gun under $300. If you want a really good clear gun check out the Sagola 4600 linked below. But it is under $500.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT99 View Post
    Time to move up from the Devilbiss Starting Line gun. I want to lay down the flattest clear coat I can for under $300. Using PPG Deltron BC/CC. Thanks!
    "Gun that lays clear like glass"
    "what clear you use on that paint job it looks like glass"

    first quote, guns do not lay clear like glass, the painter does. quality guns do help though.

    second quote, just because one painter uses a clear and can lay it out dont mean the next guy can. quality clears help in this as well.


    lets start with a few questions ?

    are you using high flow ? if yes great.
    how much pressure you putting into the gun you have now ? more than 40psi ? if yes then a new gun wont fix that.
    what clear do you plan on using ?
    are you going to cut and reclear ?


    just some helpful questions to put you on the right track.


    i recently tested a Sagola, im not a fan, but they seem to work for most of the guys here. probably your best bet

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    "Gun that lays clear like glass"
    "what clear you use on that paint job it looks like glass"

    first quote, guns do not lay clear like glass, the painter does. quality guns do help though.

    second quote, just because one painter uses a clear and can lay it out dont mean the next guy can. quality clears help in this as well.


    lets start with a few questions ?

    are you using high flow ? if yes great.
    how much pressure you putting into the gun you have now ? more than 40psi ? if yes then a new gun wont fix that.
    what clear do you plan on using ?
    are you going to cut and reclear ?


    just some helpful questions to put you on the right track.


    i recently tested a Sagola, im not a fan, but they seem to work for most of the guys here. probably your best bet
    Which Sagola gun with which fluid tip and air cap did you use? The Sagola guns that I use are the best guns I've ever used (50+ years) but I haven't used the newest Sata guns yet and they are a lot more expensive than Sagola.

  5. #5
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    lets start with a few questions ? Answers below in blue.

    are you using high flow ? if yes great. I am not sure what you mean? I use a quality 25', 3/8" air hose with standard 1/4" couplers. The regulator off my air drier is set to around 40 PSI and the one on the gun is set to around 30.
    how much pressure you putting into the gun you have now ? more than 40psi ? if yes then a new gun wont fix that. I vary between 30 and 35 PSI.
    what clear do you plan on using ? Deltron Concept DCU2021
    are you going to cut and reclear ? Hopefully not. I'm doing the trunk, engine bay, and passenger compartment too, so I can't cut and buff.
    Last edited by MT99; 07-20-2019 at 09:14 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Which Sagola gun with which fluid tip and air cap did you use? The Sagola guns that I use are the best guns I've ever used (50+ years) but I haven't used the newest Sata guns yet and they are a lot more expensive than Sagola.
    whats the best gun for me may not be for you sir, we both know that. OldFatBald sent me his Sagola to help him tune it in but i couldnt find anything i liked about. my parts came out great. i can post a few pics later on this week. we can talk more about it when i post about it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT99 View Post
    lets start with a few questions ? Answers below in blue.

    are you using high flow ? if yes great. I am not sure what you mean? I use a quality 25', 3/8" air hose with standard 1/4" couplers. The regulator off my air drier is set to around 40 PSI and the one on the gun is set to around 30.
    how much pressure you putting into the gun you have now ? more than 40psi ? if yes then a new gun wont fix that. I vary between 30 and 35 PSI. are you spraying with this pressure or regulating this at the wall ?
    what clear do you plan on using ? Deltron Concept DCU2021 decent clear
    are you going to cut and reclear ? Hopefully not. I'm doing the trunk, engine bay, and passenger compartment too, so I can't cut and buff.
    you doing these the same time as outside of the car ?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    you doing these the same time as outside of the car ?
    That is the pressure at the gun.

    I have already sprayed the underside. Inside and trunk will be done at the same time. Exterior/engine bay/front fender wells will be done at the same time.

  9. #9
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    whats your pressure at the wall ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    whats your pressure at the wall ?
    40 PSI at the wall regulator

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT99 View Post
    40 PSI at the wall regulator
    perfect, upgrade to high flow fittings.

    i will try to do a gun and set up article tomorrow. something ive been trying to get on the forums for awhile now. perhaps it will help you choose a gun

  12. #12
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    I have been painting professionally for 48 years and never had the need for "hi-flo" fittings. You're not running an industrial pneumatic jack hammer or a 1" air impact taking semi truck wheels lug nuts off. It's a frigging paint spray gun that flows 15 cfm + or - a couple cfm.

    I do agree with painterdave about the painter being the most critical part of laying out a smooth paint job. A well experienced painter can get glass smooth paint jobs with a decent gun regardless of what that gun costs. A less experienced painter will screw up a paint job with a $1,000 Sata spray gun. As a painter you need to hone your skills to fit the gun not vice versa. I picked up a Harbor Freight compliant spray gun for like $100 and it sprays like glass FOR ME (many years experience spraying paint). I have a Warwick 904H LVLP gun that I have used for close to 10 years that is a great spray gun. It's been my go to spray gun for clears. I paid $120 for it close to 10 years ago and it's still going strong today. I did have to change the seals around 4 years ago. I have owned several expensive spray guns in the last 20 years and not particularly impressed with any of them. Find a gun that you like and use that gun. Try to borrow a particular spray gun from a buddy or a paint store before you shell out your hard earned money only to find out you don't like the gun. (some paint stores will let you try out a spray gun before you buy it).

    One other thing -- thinking your getting the very best clear you can get by paying ridiculously high prices is just not true. There are a LOT of excellent clears available for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of high end clears. They spray just as well and they hold up just as well as the frigging high end clears. I never buy high end clears for my own vehicles because experience has taught me there is no reason to pay double or triple the cost. Experience has also taught me that there are times when you can safely cut corners but there are also times when you don't cut corners. You have to figure out which is which and only experience will teach you that.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    I have been painting professionally for 48 years and never had the need for "hi-flo" fittings. You're not running an industrial pneumatic jack hammer or a 1" air impact taking semi truck wheels lug nuts off. It's a frigging paint spray gun that flows 15 cfm + or - a couple cfm.

    I do agree with painterdave about the painter being the most critical part of laying out a smooth paint job. A well experienced painter can get glass smooth paint jobs with a decent gun regardless of what that gun costs. A less experienced painter will screw up a paint job with a $1,000 Sata spray gun. As a painter you need to hone your skills to fit the gun not vice versa. I picked up a Harbor Freight compliant spray gun for like $100 and it sprays like glass FOR ME (many years experience spraying paint). I have a Warwick 904H LVLP gun that I have used for close to 10 years that is a great spray gun. It's been my go to spray gun for clears. I paid $120 for it close to 10 years ago and it's still going strong today. I did have to change the seals around 4 years ago. I have owned several expensive spray guns in the last 20 years and not particularly impressed with any of them. Find a gun that you like and use that gun. Try to borrow a particular spray gun from a buddy or a paint store before you shell out your hard earned money only to find out you don't like the gun. (some paint stores will let you try out a spray gun before you buy it).

    One other thing -- thinking your getting the very best clear you can get by paying ridiculously high prices is just not true. There are a LOT of excellent clears available for 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of high end clears. They spray just as well and they hold up just as well as the frigging high end clears. I never buy high end clears for my own vehicles because experience has taught me there is no reason to pay double or triple the cost. Experience has also taught me that there are times when you can safely cut corners but there are also times when you don't cut corners. You have to figure out which is which and only experience will teach you that.

    Phil todays gun work off "Volume of air" not pressure. high flow fitting give you more volume the way the guns was designed. believe it matters sir. you should set pressure at the wall leaving you air adjustment knob wide open for better volume and undisturbed air flow. SATA flew me to Germany and trained me for a week on their spray equipment. its exhausting to go through all that ive learned in 30+ years. so sorry if im not clear as to why it matters but it certainly does. ill go start a post right now. i will be editing it quite a bit buy let me toss up some info real fast.


    great job with the rest of your post !!!!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    Phil todays gun work off "Volume of air" not pressure. high flow fitting give you more volume the way the guns was designed. believe it matters sir. you should set pressure at the wall leaving you air adjustment knob wide open for better volume and undisturbed air flow. SATA flew me to Germany and trained me for a week on their spray equipment. its exhausting to go through all that ive learned in 30+ years. so sorry if im not clear as to why it matters but it certainly does. ill go start a post right now. i will be editing it quite a bit buy let me toss up some info real fast.


    great job with the rest of your post !!!!
    I've used high flow fittings and non high flow fittings with my Sata, Devilbiss, Sagola and other guns and couldn't see any difference. What difference do you see?

    I set the inlet pressure at the gun and I've also set the air pressure at the wall so that I get the recommended inlet pressure at the gun which may have made some difference but barely noticeable. What difference do you see? Maybe I should try it again.

  15. #15
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    Better Atomizing, "more controled" maybe a better term ?
    Color Matching
    Less material
    etc etc

    the gun is designed to work wide open. air, fluid,

    do you ever use a 1.3 and choke it down ? try a 1.2 and leave it wide open your results will be better

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