Best time to recoat DPLF?

[MT99]

DPLF has a 7 day window for recoating, but what is the "best" time to recoat? I can topcoat tomorrow, approximately 15 hrs after the epoxy, or the next chance I have is in 5 days. Does it matter as long as it is in the window? I will be spraying Omni BC/CC. Also, is there any benefit to spraying a seal coat when I am in the recoat window?

[Len]

DPLF has a 7 day window for recoating, but what is the "best" time to recoat? I can topcoat tomorrow, approximately 15 hrs after the epoxy, or the next chance I have is in 5 days. Does it matter as long as it is in the window? I will be spraying Omni BC/CC. Also, is there any benefit to spraying a seal coat when I am in the recoat window?

Recoat time can vary depending on the temperature. If it's warm I'd recommend applying your topcoat in the shorter period (15 hrs) no sealer needed.

[Ronf]

DPLF has a 7 day window for recoating, but what is the "best" time to recoat? I can topcoat tomorrow, approximately 15 hrs after the epoxy, or the next chance I have is in 5 days. Does it matter as long as it is in the window? I will be spraying Omni BC/CC. Also, is there any benefit to spraying a seal coat when I am in the recoat window?

I've been using DPLF for years (mainly DP50LF or DP90LF). When I first started using this PPG primer it had a 72 hour max window re-coat and that was with the DP402LF catalyst, I've never used the 401. I've also used it with and without the sealer. For the sealer, I always use their scale of G1 to G7 with the DAS products. The ONLY time I now use the sealer is for panel match IF the P sheet calls for it. As you may know the PPG sealers, like many sealers, have a wide variety of colors from white to dark gray, starting with their DAS3021 sealer which is white (G1) and shades in between that extend to their gray 3025 onto dark gray DAS3027 (G7). I've only had one problem and that was several years back when I was trying to match a fender and door to factory paint where the P sheet called for the white sealer (DAS3021). I had shot the bc over DP50LF without the white sealer and it came out a shade or 2 off, which could only be seen in the extreme daylight sun. For that fix I striped the panels back to steel, hit it again with DPLF primer, followed by the appropriate DAS sealer, bc, cc, etc. and the panels came out dead on. If I am shooting a full car or if the P sheet calls for a medium gray sealer, I no longer do a seal coat. I might add I mostly shoot the Deltron 2000 (DBC), only occasionally have I used the Omni.

I wouldn't push the re-coat window time with this product, just too many variables with heat and humidity. I admit to being a bit gun shy after PPG changed their DPLF re-coat window time from 3 to 7 days, just can't see taking the chance.

[bmarler]

I've been using DPLF for years (mainly DP50LF or DP90LF). When I first started using this PPG primer it had a 72 hour max window re-coat and that was with the DP402LF catalyst, I've never used the 401. I've also used it with and without the sealer. For the sealer, I always use their scale of G1 to G7 with the DAS products. The ONLY time I now use the sealer is for panel match IF the P sheet calls for it. As you may know the PPG sealers, like many sealers, have a wide variety of colors from white to dark gray, starting with their DAS3021 sealer which is white (G1) and shades in between that extend to their gray 3025 onto dark gray DAS3027 (G7). I've only had one problem and that was several years back when I was trying to match a fender and door to factory paint where the P sheet called for the white sealer (DAS3021). I had shot the bc over DP50LF without the white sealer and it came out a shade or 2 off, which could only be seen in the extreme daylight sun. For that fix I striped the panels back to steel, hit it again with DPLF primer, followed by the appropriate DAS sealer, bc, cc, etc. and the panels came out dead on. If I am shooting a full car or if the P sheet calls for a medium gray sealer, I no longer do a seal coat. I might add I mostly shoot the Deltron 2000 (DBC), only occasionally have I used the Omni.

I wouldn't push the re-coat window time with this product, just too many variables with heat and humidity. I admit to being a bit gun shy after PPG changed their DPLF re-coat window time from 3 to 7 days, just can't see taking the chance.

i remember when that changed too. but if a big company like that makes a change to 7 days from 3 you can bet there's research behind it. those companies are always tweaking formulas to make them better. i deal with large adhesive companies that are closely related and it's the same thing. always improving the line.
that said, the conservative in me says the shorter time to top coat is always best, and that's what i try to do.

[PainterDave]

use the 15 degree rule, for every 15 degrees over 70 your window is cut in half, so a 7 day window at 85 is 3 1/2 days and it seems DPLF starts at 55°

https://www.welleauto.com/images/PDF...egree-rule.pdf

[MT99]

Thanks everyone, I sprayed the base/clear at the 16 hr mark. All turned out great

[Ronf]

i remember when that changed too. but if a big company like that makes a change to 7 days from 3 you can bet there's research behind it. those companies are always tweaking formulas to make them better. i deal with large adhesive companies that are closely related and it's the same thing. always improving the line.
that said, the conservative in me says the shorter time to top coat is always best, and that's what i try to do.

Absolutely agree! and I have extended the window as well, I just don't push any products time limit as I may judge the variables wrong. With that said, I would assume the tweaking of the product this is taken into account.

[Ronf]

use the 15 degree rule, for every 15 degrees over 70 your window is cut in half, so a 7 day window at 85 is 3 1/2 days and it seems DPLF starts at 55°

https://www.welleauto.com/images/PDF...egree-rule.pdf

I like this Dave, thanks for sharing