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Thread: Overspray/Dry spay landed???

  1. #31

    Default

    I can get pics tomorrow. Cars at my dad's place and I live across town.
    Its just the sticky tape residue. The small corner that got paint I'm not too worried about that seal is gonna be replaced soon anyway.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    543

    Default Sticky tape residue

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I can get pics tomorrow. Cars at my dad's place and I live across town.
    Its just the sticky tape residue. The small corner that got paint I'm not too worried about that seal is gonna be replaced soon anyway.
    Sticky tape residue can be cleaned with acetone. For sensitive metals I use finger nail polish remover (which is acetone) as it has a conditioner in it, followed by a good metal cleaner.

  3. #33

    Default

    I figured acetone would be the go to.

    My trim is rubber and not metal and Ford some reason designed the trim not removable or only can be removed by taking the window out.
    Windshield trim cant be replaced, has to be the entire window...

    The rear upper trim can be replaced but only if the window is removed.The lower trim doesnt need window taken out and that one is the only one with a bit of paint but it has lost its shape anyways.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    42,275

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Sticky tape residue can be cleaned with acetone. For sensitive metals I use finger nail polish remover (which is acetone) as it has a conditioner in it, followed by a good metal cleaner.
    We normally use grease and wax remover just because it's not as dangerous around paint. But acetone is faster and no problem if there's no paint close by.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    15,147

    Default Root Cause?

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I can get pics tomorrow. Cars at my dad's place and I live across town.
    Its just the sticky tape residue. The small corner that got paint I'm not too worried about that seal is gonna be replaced soon anyway.
    This happens to all of us. HOWEVER, not really mentioned and perhaps 'assumed' and a good time to focus on it is type of tape everyone is using?

    Things get a little particular with autobody products and work. You need to use a quality automotive autobody masking tape. There are really only two I know of and use: 3M 233 yellow or green automotive or AMERICAN PG27. These tapes go one where you want them, stay put, tolerate paint, temperature fluctuations and come off even months down the road:

    PG also available in cases of various sizes for good savings.

    Here is a tip I found that helps for a wider tape. Many years ago, we used 3/4 or 2 inch. To me, the 2 inch got too expensive so I've been using the one and a half inch which just as well. Matter of fact that's the size I use in my tape machines with the masking paper.

    (Cheap tape that looks like good masking tape will not do for you in this work and cause lots of extra work.)

    Henry

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,468

    Default

    Regarding tape and quality of tapes and price..

    my main tapes are 3/4 and 1 1/2 inch tapes made by NAR company from Italy, one box of 48 tapes 3/4 inch is $50 and box of 1 1/2 inch tape , 24 in the bix,s also $50..

    yes, this is "cheap" tape, bit just in price but it performs, it tears easy, it folds easy, it sticks and it is 1/2 price...i just dont leave it in the car for more than few days, it leaves residu like anu ithwr tape.


    i also have and use 3/4 infh green 3M tape, but it is only for sensitivw areas and if tape will ne on the car for more than few days..i dont buy it, a friend who works for 3M always brings me few boxes for free

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    15,147

    Default So...

    Quote Originally Posted by baubau View Post
    Regarding tape and quality of tapes and price..

    my main tapes are 3/4 and 1 1/2 inch tapes made by NAR company from Italy, one box of 48 tapes 3/4 inch is $50 and box of 1 1/2 inch tape , 24 in the box's also $50..

    yes, this is "cheap" tape, bit just in price but it performs, it tears easy, it folds easy, it sticks and it is 1/2 price...i just don't leave it in the car for more than few days, it leaves residue like any other tape.


    i also have and use 3/4 inch green 3M tape, but it is only for sensitive areas and if tape will ne on the car for more than few days..i don't buy it, a friend who works for 3M always brings me few boxes for free
    So, you agree with me on the 3M and not sure if you ever used the AMERICAN (that's the name).
    See, my whole point is tape that does not leave residuedue! I don't want your Italian tape for free. (Italian girls with long dark hair - YES)

    Also, prices you mention are CANADIAN DOLLARS - correct?

    Unless your buddy makes house calls to America, we'll have to buy what I mentioned here. I REFUSE to skimp on tape and I expect it to perform.

    Henry

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    This happens to all of us. HOWEVER, not really mentioned and perhaps 'assumed' and a good time to focus on it is type of tape everyone is using?

    Things get a little particular with autobody products and work. You need to use a quality automotive autobody masking tape. There are really only two I know of and use: 3M 233 yellow or green automotive or AMERICAN PG27. These tapes go one where you want them, stay put, tolerate paint, temperature fluctuations and come off even months down the road:

    PG also available in cases of various sizes for good savings.

    Here is a tip I found that helps for a wider tape. Many years ago, we used 3/4 or 2 inch. To me, the 2 inch got too expensive so I've been using the one and a half inch which just as well. Matter of fact that's the size I use in my tape machines with the masking paper.

    (Cheap tape that looks like good masking tape will not do for you in this work and cause lots of extra work.)

    Henry
    Henry[/QUOTE]

    As allows Henry you and Len are spot on! I still like my Q-tip method for removing tape adhesion lol (see earlier post), just works for me. But to be safe Len is absolutely correct.

    For tape;
    Personally I only use the 3/4 and 1.5" 3M automotive tape. I like a product I personally know and trust. I have no doubt there are other tapes that work just as well, I just don't want to switch when I have a known-to-me good product that does what I want.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #39

    Default

    I got the residue off very easily. I taped off the paint and used Ronf method very carefully, wiped right off.

    As for tape, i knew better than to use the blue tape but just wasnt thinking. I had the yellow automotive tape but ran out on the top window trim for front and rear and in a pinch i used the blue i had laying around forgetting the blue sucks for that type of stuff.

    Im still in the process of wet sanding then onto compounds and no7.

    But im noticing a couple areas were my gun technique failed me.....lol.
    I have couple small areas were i got some either dry looking spray or just held the gun a lil too far back.

    Whats the best way to knock this out? Btw ive used all the paint i had.

    At this point even if i cant get it out im still happy because ill need to post pics of before and you will see what i mean.

  10. #40

    Default

    Oh and Henry,
    Your comment about the italian girls.....forget it. I dated a couple and they are crazy, more so than the latina i WAS married too and she's bi-polar and schizo.....lol

  11. #41

    Default Before Pics.

    Im guessing clear coat failure.
    I bought this used from FORD that Ford got from the original owner and I dont think he took very good care of it.
    Looked great when I bought but after about 3 years the paint started cracking then went right through to the metal/fiberglass on the roof and hood first then just went from there.


    20190404_174656.jpg

    20190325_134144.jpg

    20190404_174744.jpg

    20190404_174733.jpg

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    543

    Default Go slow

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I got the residue off very easily. I taped off the paint and used Ronf method very carefully, wiped right off.

    As for tape, i knew better than to use the blue tape but just wasnt thinking. I had the yellow automotive tape but ran out on the top window trim for front and rear and in a pinch i used the blue i had laying around forgetting the blue sucks for that type of stuff.

    Im still in the process of wet sanding then onto compounds and no7.

    But im noticing a couple areas were my gun technique failed me.....lol.
    I have couple small areas were i got some either dry looking spray or just held the gun a lil too far back.

    Whats the best way to knock this out? Btw ive used all the paint i had.

    At this point even if i cant get it out im still happy because ill need to post pics of before and you will see what i mean.
    "But im noticing a couple areas were my gun technique failed me.....lol.
    I have couple small areas were i got some either dry looking spray or just held the gun a lil too far back.

    Whats the best way to knock this out? Btw ive used all the paint i had. "

    I would first try the 1200-1500 wet and go slow. You may find you put enough product down to completely polish it out. You really want to go slow and try to "walk" this in. Better to ease into it as opposed to burning through. Even if you backed your gun off you still may have put enough product down in which case it will buff out. If the 1500 works be careful when you buff,m could be easy to burn through if product is light. You may e pleasantly surprised on these areas.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    543

    Default Tape

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I got the residue off very easily. I taped off the paint and used Ronf method very carefully, wiped right off.

    As for tape, i knew better than to use the blue tape but just wasnt thinking. I had the yellow automotive tape but ran out on the top window trim for front and rear and in a pinch i used the blue i had laying around forgetting the blue sucks for that type of stuff.

    Im still in the process of wet sanding then onto compounds and no7.

    But im noticing a couple areas were my gun technique failed me.....lol.
    I have couple small areas were i got some either dry looking spray or just held the gun a lil too far back.

    Whats the best way to knock this out? Btw ive used all the paint i had.

    At this point even if i cant get it out im still happy because ill need to post pics of before and you will see what i mean.
    "As for tape, i knew better than to use the blue tape but just wasnt thinking. I had the yellow automotive tape but ran out on the top window trim for front and rear and in a pinch i used the blue i had laying around forgetting the blue sucks for that type of stuff."

    No, I've never done that, ha. We've all done that, gotta do with what is on hand at times and knowing what it would do I would have still used it if it is the only thing available at the time.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    543

    Default Ford paint

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Im guessing clear coat failure.
    I bought this used from FORD that Ford got from the original owner and I dont think he took very good care of it.
    Looked great when I bought but after about 3 years the paint started cracking then went right through to the metal/fiberglass on the roof and hood first then just went from there.


    20190404_174656.jpg

    20190325_134144.jpg

    20190404_174744.jpg

    20190404_174733.jpg
    In the 2000's Ford had several problems with their paint jos ranging from primer to clear coat. I don't specifically remember their Mustang being one of the models with a problems but not surprised. Do a google search for Zestar + ford paint, Zestar did a comprehensive study on Fords paint crazing problem several years back. Ford later produced a TSB on their paint, just no recall as it isn't a safety issue.

  15. #45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    In the 2000's Ford had several problems with their paint jos ranging from primer to clear coat. I don't specifically remember their Mustang being one of the models with a problems but not surprised. Do a google search for Zestar + ford paint, Zestar did a comprehensive study on Fords paint crazing problem several years back. Ford later produced a TSB on their paint, just no recall as it isn't a safety issue.
    Yeah I heard something about that with Fords paint.

    I used to hear Gm had bad paint in the 80's but I had an black 88 IROC all original until 2001 that the paint was pretty much flawless on and I n couldnt keep it in a garage either.
    Motor blew andmy health at the time wasnt up to dropping a new motor in it. Sold the next day for $2500 to a local mechanic and I saw his girl driving it about 4 yrs back and the paint still looked good on it.

    I hear ya on the make do with what you got.

    I did the 1500 wet earlier and made big improvements but still not as glossy as I'd like but Im gonna step up on finer grits and think that will improve.

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