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Thread: Overspray/Dry spay landed???

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    211

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Yeah I heard something about that with Fords paint.

    I used to hear Gm had bad paint in the 80's but I had an black 88 IROC all original until 2001 that the paint was pretty much flawless on and I n couldnt keep it in a garage either.
    Motor blew andmy health at the time wasnt up to dropping a new motor in it. Sold the next day for $2500 to a local mechanic and I saw his girl driving it about 4 yrs back and the paint still looked good on it.

    I hear ya on the make do with what you got.

    I did the 1500 wet earlier and made big improvements but still not as glossy as I'd like but Im gonna step up on finer grits and think that will improve.
    When you hit it with 1500 wet did it appear there was plenty of paint on the surface (I know, hard to judge), did the surface level and take out all the orange peel and dusting effect? If so, you could move to 2000 and 3000 wet prior to buffing. If not you might actually be able to step down a bit first. How big of an area are we talking about, big enough to try a test area of 1000-1200 wet? Any chance you have a paint thickness gauge to check mils? If stepping up grit and buffing doesn't take it out you might consider stepping back to 1000-1200 wet if you think enough product has been applied. What is your method and products for buffing?

  2. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    When you hit it with 1500 wet did it appear there was plenty of paint on the surface (I know, hard to judge), did the surface level and take out all the orange peel and dusting effect? If so, you could move to 2000 and 3000 wet prior to buffing. If not you might actually be able to step down a bit first. How big of an area are we talking about, big enough to try a test area of 1000-1200 wet? Any chance you have a paint thickness gauge to check mils? If stepping up grit and buffing doesn't take it out you might consider stepping back to 1000-1200 wet if you think enough product has been applied. What is your method and products for buffing?
    No I dont have a mil gauge.

    With the 1500 I still had some orange peel but not too bad.

    Im gonna try the stepping up bit. I did try some 1000 in a small lower area and did help but still didnt pull a good shine out. But I need to step up the grits too.

    The compounds I have now are Meguiars Fine and Medium cuts and #7 glaze. So far I only used the #7 on a sanded area to see how it did, made improvements but I'd still like it better.
    Areas arent too big, maybe 1'x1' spots so to speak.

    As for thickness I used 1 gal of SS and it seems to have given a decent thickness and of course I know to keep sanding away from the edges.

  3. #48
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    Dec 2015
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    211

    Default Looking good

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    No I dont have a mil gauge.

    With the 1500 I still had some orange peel but not too bad.

    Im gonna try the stepping up bit. I did try some 1000 in a small lower area and did help but still didnt pull a good shine out. But I need to step up the grits too.

    The compounds I have now are Meguiars Fine and Medium cuts and #7 glaze. So far I only used the #7 on a sanded area to see how it did, made improvements but I'd still like it better.
    Areas arent too big, maybe 1'x1' spots so to speak.

    As for thickness I used 1 gal of SS and it seems to have given a decent thickness and of course I know to keep sanding away from the edges.
    Sounds like a plan. Post pics when finished

  4. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Sounds like a plan. Post pics when finished
    UPDATE:
    Went with the 1200,1500,2000 then buffed with the med and fine cuts.
    All the defects are coming right out and getting the shine.

    Dont have too much done since Im spent but its getting there with everyones help,Thanks Ronf. Much appreciated.

  5. #50
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    Dec 2015
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    Default Nice job

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    UPDATE:
    Went with the 1200,1500,2000 then buffed with the med and fine cuts.
    All the defects are coming right out and getting the shine.

    Dont have too much done since Im spent but its getting there with everyones help,Thanks Ronf. Much appreciated.
    Really glad to hear this. I had a feeling you put enough product down by what you were describing, just needed wet sanding and buffing out. I don't get too discouraged by a few small dusted areas if I know there is plenty of product to buff out. I seldom have much orange peel, but when I do I will step down in that area with 1000-1200 wet for heavy peel (going light prerssure with long strokes) just to break the surface and quickly step up to 1500 wet. Try pre soaking your paper for 15 minutes in a pail of distilled water with a 1/2 cap (cap, not cup) full of dish washing soap added, it will help break the surface tension.

    What buffer and pad are you using for the Meguiars Fine and Medium cuts and #7 glaze? Are you wet sanding out all or most of the orange peel prior to buffing? Be careful when buffing, if it has been awhile since you have run a high speed buffer I would go slow in terms of buffer speed and pressure as you don't want to burn through that finish. So many times I have watched people buff with too high of speed that begs to burn through. Going slow in terms of rotary speed and hand motion and allowing yourself to get use to the buffer effects on the surface is key to understanding the buffing step. Len has some really nice foam buffer pads that I have been using for awhile now and really like them (specifically the black and orange foam pads).

    Post some pics when your able.

  6. #51
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Really glad to hear this. I had a feeling you put enough product down by what you were describing, just needed wet sanding and buffing out. I don't get too discouraged by a few small dusted areas if I know there is plenty of product to buff out. I seldom have much orange peel, but when I do I will step down in that area with 1000-1200 wet for heavy peel (going light prerssure with long strokes) just to break the surface and quickly step up to 1500 wet. Try pre soaking your paper for 15 minutes in a pail of distilled water with a 1/2 cap (cap, not cup) full of dish washing soap added, it will help break the surface tension.

    What buffer and pad are you using for the Meguiars Fine and Medium cuts and #7 glaze? Are you wet sanding out all or most of the orange peel prior to buffing? Be careful when buffing, if it has been awhile since you have run a high speed buffer I would go slow in terms of buffer speed and pressure as you don't want to burn through that finish. So many times I have watched people buff with too high of speed that begs to burn through. Going slow in terms of rotary speed and hand motion and allowing yourself to get use to the buffer effects on the surface is key to understanding the buffing step. Len has some really nice foam buffer pads that I have been using for awhile now and really like them (specifically the black and orange foam pads).

    Post some pics when your able.
    Ron you should try the Wizard's Mystic Cut we've use a lot of different products and the Mystic Cut is by far the best. It cuts fast and leaves almost NO swirls in the paint. I haven't tried Menzerna yet because i don't have a warehouse or jobber that carries it and I don't know which products would be best for us. The Mystic Cut is expensive but very little is needed so it goes a long way.


  7. #52

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Really glad to hear this. I had a feeling you put enough product down by what you were describing, just needed wet sanding and buffing out. I don't get too discouraged by a few small dusted areas if I know there is plenty of product to buff out. I seldom have much orange peel, but when I do I will step down in that area with 1000-1200 wet for heavy peel (going light prerssure with long strokes) just to break the surface and quickly step up to 1500 wet. Try pre soaking your paper for 15 minutes in a pail of distilled water with a 1/2 cap (cap, not cup) full of dish washing soap added, it will help break the surface tension.

    What buffer and pad are you using for the Meguiars Fine and Medium cuts and #7 glaze? Are you wet sanding out all or most of the orange peel prior to buffing? Be careful when buffing, if it has been awhile since you have run a high speed buffer I would go slow in terms of buffer speed and pressure as you don't want to burn through that finish. So many times I have watched people buff with too high of speed that begs to burn through. Going slow in terms of rotary speed and hand motion and allowing yourself to get use to the buffer effects on the surface is key to understanding the buffing step. Len has some really nice foam buffer pads that I have been using for awhile now and really like them (specifically the black and orange foam pads).

    Post some pics when your able.

    Yea im soaking the paper,using dish liquid and so on.

    I have 2 different buffer/polishers. I have a 6" da porter cable and a 10" buffer that the name has long since worn off and way too many years for me to remember. My Porter is variable speed with settings 1-9 i think, i usually stay around 2-3 depending on the area im working.

    As for pads im just using the foam pad that came out and use the style wool,terry or fiber bonnets since im familiar with those.

    I use the meguiars and polishers since thats what i have already.
    As a hobby i buy cheap neglected guitars and restore them so im familiar with the process.
    Ive learned to do this mainly in jr high and hs shop classes and being around it off and on through the years. My guitar restores are done the same way as you would a car.

    Also things i wasnt sure about i watched a guy on youtube i think is from the dallas area called my friend pete...lol.

    On my guitars ive done i dont get orange peel or the dry spray effect mainly cause they are small and its much easier to keep from it.

    Im also a model car builder and i use automotive products and same methods there too. With a detail gun or air brush i can get a show quality shine...lol.

    Will keep updated.

  8. #53

    Default Pics

    Sorry my phone or maybe me doesnt take good pics, not a fan of cell phones for jack of all trades...

    Anyway you can see the top of the fender is where Ive been working and then some of what I was talking about on the hood close to the fender.
    This is 1200,1500,2000 then medium cut. I hadnt done any fine cut or glaze yet.

    The hood pic is also upto the same stage.
    Like I said its not perfect but just the couple days Ive had it together and make a quick run to the auto store I have been getting so many compliments on the car again,hadnt got those in years.

    Also quick question, do they make a hood stripe stencil for this specific car?
    I know you can get them for the old school mach's and Boss'. The original vinyl stripe failed after about 6-7 yrs and the replacement even less than that.
    I really prefer to stay away from the vinyls because removing them can cause damage to the paint and that did happen even with the original paint before it failed. I used a low temp heat gun to slightly heat the vinyl for removal but some of the vinyl was hard,cracking and would lift paint.
    Otherwise I'll either just leave it since I doubt around here there isn't any shop i'd trust.

    20190718_134811.jpg

    20190719_171710.jpg

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    211

    Default Mystic cut

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Ron you should try the Wizard's Mystic Cut we've use a lot of different products and the Mystic Cut is by far the best. It cuts fast and leaves almost NO swirls in the paint. I haven't tried Menzerna yet because i don't have a warehouse or jobber that carries it and I don't know which products would be best for us. The Mystic Cut is expensive but very little is needed so it goes a long way.

    Len,

    You mean like this?

    Yep, been using and getting this from you for awhile now.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Default Wizards

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Len,

    You mean like this?

    Yep, been using and getting this from you for awhile now.
    Len,

    I had been using the 3M black label compound before you set me up with the Wizards 11040 finish cut. What is the difference between the 11040 and the Wizards 11048 that you posted, a finishing compound maybe?

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    211

    Default Stripping

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Sorry my phone or maybe me doesnt take good pics, not a fan of cell phones for jack of all trades...

    Anyway you can see the top of the fender is where Ive been working and then some of what I was talking about on the hood close to the fender.
    This is 1200,1500,2000 then medium cut. I hadnt done any fine cut or glaze yet.

    The hood pic is also upto the same stage.
    Like I said its not perfect but just the couple days Ive had it together and make a quick run to the auto store I have been getting so many compliments on the car again,hadnt got those in years.

    Also quick question, do they make a hood stripe stencil for this specific car?
    I know you can get them for the old school mach's and Boss'. The original vinyl stripe failed after about 6-7 yrs and the replacement even less than that.
    I really prefer to stay away from the vinyls because removing them can cause damage to the paint and that did happen even with the original paint before it failed. I used a low temp heat gun to slightly heat the vinyl for removal but some of the vinyl was hard,cracking and would lift paint.
    Otherwise I'll either just leave it since I doubt around here there isn't any shop i'd trust.

    20190718_134811.jpg

    20190719_171710.jpg
    I don't use vinyl stripes at all. Not saying it is good or bad, just not a fan of vinyl over paint. For striping I use pin strippers tape and my air brush, followed by bc to seal the tape then hit it with striping color of choice. With today's tape products I doubt the bc paint to seal tape is necessary, just the way I was taught 40+ years ago.

    If I'm looking for an intricate single color stencil (like a lot of classic car hoods and trunks), I usually get a vinyl decal and use it for a pattern template only. Tape it in place followed by cutting the pattern with a razor blade over tape. I really don't recommend this method unless you have some experience with cutting patterns and tape on a freshly painted surface. Unfortunately it is the only method I have used for decades. I'm sure others here will step up and give you much better advice for your project car.

    Anything more intricate, say like the "screaming chicken", I hire out an air brush expert, those guys are amazing!

  12. #57

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    I don't use vinyl stripes at all. Not saying it is good or bad, just not a fan of vinyl over paint. For striping I use pin strippers tape and my air brush, followed by bc to seal the tape then hit it with striping color of choice. With today's tape products I doubt the bc paint to seal tape is necessary, just the way I was taught 40+ years ago.

    If I'm looking for an intricate single color stencil (like a lot of classic car hoods and trunks), I usually get a vinyl decal and use it for a pattern template only. Tape it in place followed by cutting the pattern with a razor blade over tape. I really don't recommend this method unless you have some experience with cutting patterns and tape on a freshly painted surface. Unfortunately it is the only method I have used for decades. I'm sure others here will step up and give you much better advice for your project car.

    Anything more intricate, say like the "screaming chicken", I hire out an air brush expert, those guys are amazing!
    Thanks.
    Yeah im not trying any of your methods cause I know it would end in disaster.
    Agree with the vinyls, Im just not a fan of how they look.

    Guess it will probably stay like it is.

  13. #58
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Len,

    I had been using the 3M black label compound before you set me up with the Wizards 11040 finish cut. What is the difference between the 11040 and the Wizards 11048 that you posted, a finishing compound maybe?
    We were using Presta, 3M, Mequires and others until we tried Wizards Mystic Cut 11048 and we were so happy with it that we haven't used anything else since. I don't remember using the 11040 and I don''t know it's properties so maybe I gave you some bad info.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    211

    Default Wizards

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    We were using Presta, 3M, Mequires and others until we tried Wizards Mystic Cut 11048 and we were so happy with it that we haven't used anything else since. I don't remember using the 11040 and I don''t know it's properties so maybe I gave you some bad info.
    Len,

    You didn't give me bad info, I actually got several bottles of this product from you about a year or 2 ago and it's great stuff! I love it. I was more curious as to the difference between the 11040 and the 11048. I have a feeling they are meant for different stages or finishes of buffing out the finish, ie., one cuts faster than the other or maybe even SS vs bc, cc. I know I really like what you shipped me and am now curious to try the 11048.

  15. #60
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Len,

    You didn't give me bad info, I actually got several bottles of this product from you about a year or 2 ago and it's great stuff! I love it. I was more curious as to the difference between the 11040 and the 11048. I have a feeling they are meant for different stages or finishes of buffing out the finish, ie., one cuts faster than the other or maybe even SS vs bc, cc. I know I really like what you shipped me and am now curious to try the 11048.
    Check out the 11040 and let me know how it compares. The 11048 cuts 2500 scratches out fast.

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