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Thread: Overspray/Dry spay landed???

  1. #16

    Default

    Really appreciate the kind words and help. Been disabled since 05 but just after a year of the worst pain imaginable i was back to being able to walk again.

    And you are correct, just got the 1 coat on everything.

    Today i got the car out in the sun to look over better and i dont think what i described was the issue. I think i may have moved the gun a bit to fast. The car itself looked good except that little spot behind the hood scoop opening.

    I did some test runs with gun settings and technique today. Since im using a low cfm gun i think i needed to slow down the gun to get a good gloss smooth finish.

    Anyone curious i used the Eastwood Concours LT, its rated at 4.5 cfm with 30 gal compressor. I can spray all fenders,doors,hood, and roof before i start to lose pressure at the guns regulator. But for epoxy primer i just used the cheap harbor frieght gun. I was actually impressed with it for the epoxy but dont think id want to use it for color.
    Last time i did a car was with a siphon feed.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Really appreciate the kind words and help. Been disabled since 05 but just after a year of the worst pain imaginable i was back to being able to walk again.

    And you are correct, just got the 1 coat on everything.

    Today i got the car out in the sun to look over better and i dont think what i described was the issue. I think i may have moved the gun a bit to fast. The car itself looked good except that little spot behind the hood scoop opening.

    I did some test runs with gun settings and technique today. Since im using a low cfm gun i think i needed to slow down the gun to get a good gloss smooth finish.

    Anyone curious i used the Eastwood Concours LT, its rated at 4.5 cfm with 30 gal compressor. I can spray all fenders,doors,hood, and roof before i start to lose pressure at the guns regulator. But for epoxy primer i just used the cheap harbor frieght gun. I was actually impressed with it for the epoxy but dont think id want to use it for color.
    Last time i did a car was with a siphon feed.
    I've never used that gun but most low CFM guns tend to have poorer atomization than the higher CFM guns so the droplet size is larger and tends to cause more orange peel. If this is the case then you move too fast or hold the gun too far from the surface you could cause a sandpaper-like finish.

  3. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I've never used that gun but most low CFM guns tend to have poorer atomization than the higher CFM guns so the droplet size is larger and tends to cause more orange peel. If this is the case then you move too fast or hold the gun too far from the surface you could cause a sandpaper-like finish.
    ANd thats what I got, just too fast movement

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    ANd thats what I got, just too fast movement
    The added problem could be slowing down with a gun that doesn't atomize well could produce runs more easily. Be sure to allow your first cost to dry to the touch before applying a second coat.

  5. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    The added problem could be slowing down with a gun that doesn't atomize well could produce runs more easily. Be sure to allow your first cost to dry to the touch before applying a second coat.
    I think it atomizes well I just went to fast after experimenting earlier. I havent gotten any runs in the 1st coat except inside the fuel door.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    326

    Default Where are you at now?

    So I'm thinking all is good with first coat except hood scoop area in front of windshield? It's the only area from the pics I could pick out. Since your using a 30 gallon compressor I'm guessing you shot your peripherals separate from the body, i.e., fenders, hood, trunk, etc and allowed compressor to build back up prior to moving between panels? Here is a little tip for shooting with a compressor that is a bit small for extended work (body). If you know the high side psi your compressor kicks off at after build up and just before it shuts down, start shooting. The compressor will continue to run and give you an extra minute or two of good spraying time as opposed to shutting off and waiting until it bleeds down to the nominal 90 psi before kicking back on. Even on my 80 gallon 7hp compressor I do this when shooting an entire body as it keeps the compressor going instead of shutting down and waiting till the low pressure switch kicks in.

    " I think i may have moved the gun a bit to fast"
    Did you happen to change your distance from gun to panel in this area as well as speed being to fast? If the rest of the shoot went well you must have changed a variable. Sounds like after your test panel shot you may have it down now.
    I would hit the entire hood with a 1200-1500 wet after it is completely dried (check your P sheet for surface prep on a previously or factory painter surface for grit, not a primer surface) and go for the second coat. On the remaining body/panels, as long as your well within your re-coat window for the second coat I would tack and shoot it out as well. Obviously you know to build the coats for sanding and polishing.

  7. #22

    Default Thank you

    I hit it this morning with 1500 wet and looked much better.
    I kept the gun same distance throughout but Im sure it was my speed that changed.
    As for the comp keeping up I can do the body....rear fenders,roof,hood and doors before any pressure loss at the guns regulator. Then I let it build back and did the bumpers,front fenders,rockers and sails without needing to wait anymore for the comp.

    Im not quiet sure I understand this comment, "(check your P sheet for surface prep on a previously or factory painter surface for grit, not a primer surface)".

    There was no original paint left, I took it down to bare metal,fiber glass,replaced the front bumper and so on.
    The P sheet says that if im out of recoat window to on color stage to hit with 800 grit wet. Its why I asked in a previous reply if the 1500 wet provides enough bite for next coat.Like I said I hit with 1500 wet and that made a big improvement, looks much better other than dulling the finish.

    So am I good with 1500 after the recoat window has passed or do I need to hit with courser grit?

    I havent done too much last couple days,diabetes really dragging me down. If im up to it then tomorrow I want to hit with another good coat now that Im sure want I did wrong with moving a bit faster when I did the parts that were removed.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    326

    Default Re-coat

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I hit it this morning with 1500 wet and looked much better.
    I kept the gun same distance throughout but Im sure it was my speed that changed.
    As for the comp keeping up I can do the body....rear fenders,roof,hood and doors before any pressure loss at the guns regulator. Then I let it build back and did the bumpers,front fenders,rockers and sails without needing to wait anymore for the comp.

    Im not quiet sure I understand this comment, "(check your P sheet for surface prep on a previously or factory painter surface for grit, not a primer surface)".

    There was no original paint left, I took it down to bare metal,fiber glass,replaced the front bumper and so on.
    The P sheet says that if im out of recoat window to on color stage to hit with 800 grit wet. Its why I asked in a previous reply if the 1500 wet provides enough bite for next coat.Like I said I hit with 1500 wet and that made a big improvement, looks much better other than dulling the finish.

    So am I good with 1500 after the recoat window has passed or do I need to hit with courser grit?

    I havent done too much last couple days,diabetes really dragging me down. If im up to it then tomorrow I want to hit with another good coat now that Im sure want I did wrong with moving a bit faster when I did the parts that were removed.
    I like 1200-1500 wet between coats of newly painted SS for corrections, those that are bumping the extreme limits of the re-coat window or just outside the window, which is what you have. For old dried finish I use 600 grit wet, not what you have. Most P sheets refer to surface prep on a primer or old finished surface for repaint. You essentially have a new paint that needs correction, hitting it with too course of paper will gum it up.

  9. #24

    Default

    Got it, thanks.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    326

    Default Recoat window

    Remember, if you don't correct this before a full cure out you'll have to braid it closer to the 600 wet, just depends on how long you wait from window re-coat time. I would try to get this done in the next day or 2 as I hate a 600 scratch over new paint, seems like all I do is chase the scratches. What part of Texas are you from?

  11. #26

    Default

    I should get the next coat on tomorrow.

    Central Texas, Bryan/College Station but Ive lived all over TX.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    326

    Default Texas

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I should get the next coat on tomorrow.

    Central Texas, Bryan/College Station but Ive lived all over TX.
    I am in Keller, DFW area

  13. #28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    I am in Keller, DFW area
    Oh, your not too far I guess, about 4 hrs from me...I think

    I have a friend in Plano,had family in Mesquite, and an EX-WIFE in Weatherford. Dont think Ive been through Keller. I try staying away from the big cities,dont like traffic or crowded areas.
    Ive lived in Midland/Odessa,Waco,Hewitt,Houston,Baytown and Lufkin.

    We use to hold our family reunions at Lake Grapevine

  14. #29

    Default Thank you for the help

    Wanted to thank everyone for all the help and info. I was able to get all the paint down pretty good yesterday and not a single bug found its way into the final coat.
    I learned something with the bugs.
    Before i paint just spay about a 2 foot wet coat on the wall then wait a few minutes and the bugs disappear.

    Had a couple mishaps though. Somehow with all the masking i did a small amount of paint found its way onto the lower rear window seal/trim.
    And i ran out of the yellow automotive tape so i thought id use the blue tape i had on the upper window trim, well it left a nasty residue and i knew better but forgot.

    So whats a good method of removing residue being so near the fresh paint?

    I'll get some pics later being at doctors today.

    Thank you again, Mark.

    EDIT: Pics Added. The roof looks like it has dings but its just the shadows from the late sun and trees

    Car2_2.jpg

    Car 2.jpg
    Last edited by NervusTwitch; 07-15-2019 at 01:37 PM. Reason: PICS

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    326

    Default Looking great

    Glad to see this turning out so well!

    "So whats a good method of removing residue being so near the fresh paint?

    I'll get some pics later being at doctors today."

    Hard to say without pics. I usually tape off painted area first, followed by the use of a q-tip where I pull half the wading away from the tip, then tightly roll wading to q-tip and use with minimal acetone so it doesn't run. I use small brush strokes to remove residue from closely painted areas until I get further away from paint then switch to a more appropriate shop towel. I've also found 1/8" dowel rod with the end ground down to fit a pattern works well also when wrapped with blue paper shop towel. Work close areas away from paint. Afterwards immediately clean area with g&w remover. I like to get these areas cleaned up prior to color sanding in case of a mishap (knock on wood, never had a problem cleaning over spray yet, hope I didn't just jinx myself). Pics will help define clean up better.

    Ron

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