TheCoatingStore.com

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 75

Thread: Overspray/Dry spay landed???

  1. #1

    Default Overspray/Dry spay landed???

    For the past month Ive been stripping and painting my 04 Mach 1.
    The epoxy primer went good as for the 2k Urethane surface primer.
    BTW I used single stage.

    Yesterday I started the 1st coat of color and for the most part it went very good, no runs, good coverage etc...

    But the bumper covers,sail panels,and trunk lid while paint went on better than expected but the overspray in the air settled onto mostly flat surfaces making it not look as good.

    Question is before I spray 2nd coat what would be the method to correct this? Wet sand I assume, but what grits would be suggested? Or what other ways to get moving forward again.

    I didnt have access to a paint booth these days so I used a sealed up 10'x20' portable garage and has worked very well. Im guessing my issue wasnt enough air moving and I overlooked it last night.

    gotten no runs or anything so not bad for painting a car the 1st time since late 80's in school shop of which we painted several trucks,cars and horse trailers but we had a booth so never had to really deal with my current issue.

    Used slow reducer and mixed 10% with about 80-85 degree temps outside(best Im gonna get in TX) and roughly %55 humidity and that is as low as it will get around here majority of the time year round.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default Tack cloth off

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    For the past month Ive been stripping and painting my 04 Mach 1.
    The epoxy primer went good as for the 2k Urethane surface primer.
    BTW I used single stage.

    Yesterday I started the 1st coat of color and for the most part it went very good, no runs, good coverage etc...

    But the bumper covers,sail panels,and trunk lid while paint went on better than expected but the overspray in the air settled onto mostly flat surfaces making it not look as good.

    Question is before I spray 2nd coat what would be the method to correct this? Wet sand I assume, but what grits would be suggested? Or what other ways to get moving forward again.

    I didnt have access to a paint booth these days so I used a sealed up 10'x20' portable garage and has worked very well. Im guessing my issue wasnt enough air moving and I overlooked it last night.

    gotten no runs or anything so not bad for painting a car the 1st time since late 80's in school shop of which we painted several trucks,cars and horse trailers but we had a booth so never had to really deal with my current issue.

    Used slow reducer and mixed 10% with about 80-85 degree temps outside(best Im gonna get in TX) and roughly %55 humidity and that is as low as it will get around here majority of the time year round.
    Tack cloth it off, ventilate the booth and hit it with another coat.

  3. #3

    Default

    Well I assume since Im using a slow reducer the paint stayed wet a lil longer some the air settled onto the wet wich makes it more into the finish, dont think a tack cloth will do the job.
    Maybe Im not explaining this issue very well.

    But yes I definitely will get more air moving no problem.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default Tacking

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Well I assume since Im using a slow reducer the paint stayed wet a lil longer some the air settled onto the wet wich makes it more into the finish, dont think a tack cloth will do the job.
    Maybe Im not explaining this issue very well.

    But yes I definitely will get more air moving no problem.
    If this were mine, I always tack between coats until I hit it with clear in which I put tack cloth away. Tack cloth is a very light touch at this stage. I would tack it off, put the next coat on wet or semi wet if you are planning a 3rd coat. On some panels I actually do a dusting for adhesion which almost sounds like what you have. Any chance you can provide a pic? As long as you are within your re-coat window time I can't see sanding this.

  5. #5

    Default

    I use grease and wax remover and tack before I spray every time. I only have done the 1 coat, wanting to start 2nd but dont think I should with the surface very lightly rough.
    I saw what had happened, while paint was still wet the air settled onto the wet surface and I think kinda fused with the wet paint as it dried. Sorry for lack of correct terms here.

    I'll try and post a pic but its really not showing in the pics I took last night.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    39,983

    Default

    If the overspray isn't too bad you may get away with just spraying your next coat then sanding and polishing after the paint hardens. However if it's too rough you may need to sand with some 1500 grit before applying your next coat.

    Spraying with poor air movement can be VERY dangerous especially if you're not wearing a supplied air breathing system. Be sure that your lungs are protected from the fumes and overspray or the paint job could be more costly than expected.

  7. #7

    Default

    The hood came out good,only a small hint of the issue Im describing is near the windshield behind the opening of the hood scoop area.

    The fender pic is about 2 hours after I sprayed and moved it elsewhere. That fender also had about a 5" crease type dent in the flare directly cent going front to back, but its gone now. it had got some orange peel more than factory but last night it leveled out alot more.g

    The bumper is one of the main problem areas but it just doesnt really show in pic and if I get my phone too close or zoom in it will blur.


    Sorry the car is across town on my dads property so I cant get any better pics until this evening or tomorrow. Like I said the issue doesnt really show but when hit with light its quiet noticeable. Also this was a single stage and not BC/CC( Im more experienced with SS and chose to go that route). I'll look through my pics more and see if I can find a better pic.

    Also the color shade differences is just from the different light sources.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If the overspray isn't too bad you may get away with just spraying your next coat then sanding and polishing after the paint hardens. However if it's too rough you may need to sand with some 1500 grit before applying your next coat.

    Spraying with poor air movement can be VERY dangerous especially if you're not wearing a supplied air breathing system. Be sure that your lungs are protected from the fumes and overspray or the paint job could be more costly than expected.
    Thanks and noted.

    I using a good respirator and I never smell any fumes at all while wearing it. It was one of those nights were I just didnt pay attention to the air until I finshed spraying and saw what was developing in the next 30mins to an hour.

    The main part of the car I had more air moving and really did not have the issues except in a small area on the hood,flat surface. The roof,rear fenders and doors came out nice,glossy, and less than factory orange peel, I was impressed and figured it would be worse than factory peel.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    39,983

    Default

    I see the problem in the bumper and I think I'd probably hit it with some 1500 wet then shoot it again. Plastic can tend to get a static charge as air from the gun passes over it and can attract more dust/overspray than other parts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default Dusting

    I see some of what you are talking about on the scoop near the window. Are you within your re-coat window?

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks for the help guys.
    I figured it was gonna be the 1500 wet job.

    No Im just out of the recoat window on the hood mainly because I had to call it quits yesterday, being diabetic and low sugars i had to stop but I needed to do a light wet sand in a spot anyway....you know wet paint attracts bugs....1 freakin bug.

    The other parts Im still in the recoat window.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default Recoat window

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    Thanks for the help guys.
    I figured it was gonna be the 1500 wet job.

    No Im just out of the recoat window on the hood mainly because I had to call it quits yesterday, being diabetic and low sugars i had to stop but I needed to do a light wet sand in a spot anyway....you know wet paint attracts bugs....1 freakin bug.

    The other parts Im still in the recoat window.
    "being diabetic and low sugars i had to stop"
    sorry to hear this my friend, doesn't sound like you let it slow you down though, good for you!
    On the parts that are within the re-coat window I would hit it with a second coat as long as it isn't rough, otherwise I would do a 1500 sand. I never push re-coat windows and tend to scratch the surface if it's even close to the end window as there are so many variables involved with paint, humidity, temps, reducer being used, etc. to risk a failure. Too much time goes in to these cars/panels to risk a failure.

    keep us up to date, with pics if possible.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    "being diabetic and low sugars i had to stop"
    sorry to hear this my friend, doesn't sound like you let it slow you down though, good for you!
    On the parts that are within the re-coat window I would hit it with a second coat as long as it isn't rough, otherwise I would do a 1500 sand. I never push re-coat windows and tend to scratch the surface if it's even close to the end window as there are so many variables involved with paint, humidity, temps, reducer being used, etc. to risk a failure. Too much time goes in to these cars/panels to risk a failure.

    keep us up to date, with pics if possible.
    I agree on the recoat windows.
    While I havent done a car in many years I did grow up around my dad and uncle. My uncle built drag/show cars and I learned alot from them. My uncle always painted in the garage and his 66 Chevelle always won in the top 3, mostly 1st at shows plus in the 80's it was featured in Hot Rod mag. It was a nice 9 1/2 sec drag car.

    I mostly paint/restore electric guitars from time to time but I use automotive finishes on it so I am familiar with the idea.

    Thanks for the comment about the diabetes. This job has taken me a month or so to complete because I am also disabled with severe nerve damage so I only get about 3-4 hours in before I gotta call it quits. But a body shop quote for my mach started at $10k so here we are....lol.

    Yeah I can update later.
    Will 1500 grit still have enough bite for the next coat? The paint tech sheet says to go 600-800 when out of recoat window but Ive only got the one coat so far.
    On my guitar restores I never go past the recoat window since they are small projects so not sure about the grits and window times.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default Grit

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I agree on the recoat windows.
    While I havent done a car in many years I did grow up around my dad and uncle. My uncle built drag/show cars and I learned alot from them. My uncle always painted in the garage and his 66 Chevelle always won in the top 3, mostly 1st at shows plus in the 80's it was featured in Hot Rod mag. It was a nice 9 1/2 sec drag car.

    I mostly paint/restore electric guitars from time to time but I use automotive finishes on it so I am familiar with the idea.

    Thanks for the comment about the diabetes. This job has taken me a month or so to complete because I am also disabled with severe nerve damage so I only get about 3-4 hours in before I gotta call it quits. But a body shop quote for my mach started at $10k so here we are....lol.

    Yeah I can update later.
    Will 1500 grit still have enough bite for the next coat? The paint tech sheet says to go 600-800 when out of recoat window but Ive only got the one coat so far.
    On my guitar restores I never go past the recoat window since they are small projects so not sure about the grits and window times.
    1500 will work if your knocking off first coat dusting, if it is down to primer then hit with 600-800 (both wet). Looks to me like every surface is at least "somewhat" hit with first coat so I would go with the 1500 wet.
    Love the 66' Chevelle. I started racing back in early 70's with a 67' Chevelle SS, gotta love those Chevelles!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    212

    Default An Inspiration for all

    Quote Originally Posted by NervusTwitch View Post
    I agree on the recoat windows.
    While I havent done a car in many years I did grow up around my dad and uncle. My uncle built drag/show cars and I learned alot from them. My uncle always painted in the garage and his 66 Chevelle always won in the top 3, mostly 1st at shows plus in the 80's it was featured in Hot Rod mag. It was a nice 9 1/2 sec drag car.

    I mostly paint/restore electric guitars from time to time but I use automotive finishes on it so I am familiar with the idea.

    Thanks for the comment about the diabetes. This job has taken me a month or so to complete because I am also disabled with severe nerve damage so I only get about 3-4 hours in before I gotta call it quits. But a body shop quote for my mach started at $10k so here we are....lol.

    Yeah I can update later.
    Will 1500 grit still have enough bite for the next coat? The paint tech sheet says to go 600-800 when out of recoat window but Ive only got the one coat so far.
    On my guitar restores I never go past the recoat window since they are small projects so not sure about the grits and window times.
    "Thanks for the comment about the diabetes. This job has taken me a month or so to complete because I am also disabled with severe nerve damage so I only get about 3-4 hours in before I gotta call it quits. But a body shop quote for my mach started at $10k so here we are....lol."

    My friend you are an inspiration to all of us. I understand life and health can drag you down but to rise above disabilities and continue to do the things in life you love is nothing less than heroic. I salute you and will be here for whatever you need and I bet there are several others here that will join me in this commitment, just give us a chance and see what we can accomplish together.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •