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Thread: Painting my 67 GTO

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    What does that mean? Guide Coat
    Thanks
    Never mind. I got it. Any special color I should use?
    Thanks

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Never mind. I got it. Any special color I should use?
    Thanks
    There are two types and both are black but there is also some white.


  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    14,790

    Default

    You will absolutely want to use a guide coat during your process. Chances of getting the panel laser straight without it is nil.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Pictures coming Tuesday 6/18. Here;s where I am with this. Going to sand dry down the primer with 80 or 120. Wipe down with cleaner until no signs of residue. Paint with self etching primer. Then follow up with 3 coats filling primer. Then start cutting/ How does that sound?
    Thanks
    Here we go:
    Hood - now painted with off the shelf primer - next - sand with 80 or 120 clean with degreaser - sand with 320 - clean & spray with etch primer
    Driver fender - now sanded to metal (and puty) & oxidizing - next clean, sand with 320 - clean & spray with etch
    Driver door - now half metal - half partially sanded paint - next - not sure - looking for advice
    Driver quarter panel (much like the whole passenger side) - has not been touched yet - pretty smooth panted finish - next - not sure - looking for advice
    Back of front bumper - now heavily rusted - I started cleaning it with a wire brush attachment on my drill - next - how clean do you think this needs to be & what should I top coat it with?
    Under the hood - some signs of light rust - hard to sand places - looking for advice

    I'm hearing that once the car is completely primed with (etch primer over bare metal and ? over sanded smooth old paint - if possible - waiting for advice) the next step would be to "scuff with red 3M pad (Bob - what grit?) then clean & spray with filling primer (right & is this the same as 2K primer?) Then start the block sanding 120 - clean, then 180 - clean, then 320 & clean - this is all dry sanded (is this as hard as it looks & do I follow with wet sand?) followed by a guide coat. Then start sanding the guide coat - I really have no clue how this works.

    You guys have been a big help & thanks. I'm learning, but I still don't think I know enough to do this. I've seen filling primer in spray cans. Can I use those? Remember I don't own a compressor & I may pay someone to spray the finishing coats. I found self etching primer in spray cans & plan on using those.

    Thanks again & keep the advice coming.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Help

    I thought after I posted some pictures, I'd get some more advice. Where is everyone? I spoke with two different body shops this week and I'm beginning to feel like I'm in over my head. I'm getting the impression that without a compressor I'm wasting my time. The spray cans (even etch primer) won't do the job for the finished product. Am I wasting my time?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I thought after I posted some pictures, I'd get some more advice. Where is everyone? I spoke with two different body shops this week and I'm beginning to feel like I'm in over my head. I'm getting the impression that without a compressor I'm wasting my time. The spray cans (even etch primer) won't do the job for the finished product. Am I wasting my time?
    The job can be done without a compressor but it's a lot more time consuming and you may not get the result you would with a compressor. I'm not a fan of etch primer but it's good on surface that are slightly rusted.

    With a compressor you can run sanders and spray guns that make the work move a lot faster.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    492

    Default Thatís a big job

    Your project is a large one with the correct tools, not having a compressor makes it all spray bombs - $$$$ spent on expensive cans.

    If you donít want to invest in a new hobby, it would probably be cheaper to pay someone

    Or....

    Look into one of the turbine systems

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    308

    Default Oh My

    Please don't take this the wrong way BUT I would stop this project and save up and buy a good compressor ( we can help ) and start learning to do the work youself OR find a good shop and pay to have this car restored. GTO..............well worth it. just my 2 cents worth and we are here to help.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by tommie.b View Post
    Please don't take this the wrong way BUT I would stop this project and save up and buy a good compressor ( we can help ) and start learning to do the work youself OR find a good shop and pay to have this car restored. GTO..............well worth it. just my 2 cents worth and we are here to help.
    Simply put, I can't afford to have someone else prep my car. My plan was to prep the car, one section at a time. I just need to know the correct procedures. Problem is, everyone seems to have a different opinion.

    I thought that when you get to bare metal you have only 2 options: 1) two part epoxy or 2) self etching primer. Yes or no?

    If yes, do I sand the primer when completed. Yes or no?

    If yes, wet or dry & what grit/grits?

    Thanks

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Simply put, I can't afford to have someone else prep my car. My plan was to prep the car, one section at a time. I just need to know the correct procedures. Problem is, everyone seems to have a different opinion.

    I thought that when you get to bare metal you have only 2 options: 1) two part epoxy or 2) self etching primer. Yes or no?

    If yes, do I sand the primer when completed. Yes or no?

    If yes, wet or dry & what grit/grits?

    Thanks
    I'm an epoxy primer user, I haven't used etch primer in a long time. I usually apply one or two coats of epoxy then apply a filler primer within the epoxy's recoat window so that they bond together and doesn't need sanding then I guide coat the filler primer and block sand with 400 or 600 wet prior to painting. Without a compressor you would need to use an aerosol that contains an interior cell which is ruptured to release the activator into the primer.


  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    14,790

    Default

    First off, this is going to be a sizable project. Before you go any further, if you haven't already, crawl up under the trunk and dash areas. I can tell you that most of these cars have rotted out channels that will require fabrication. Also understand that this process, even if you do all the work will be very expensive. I have well over 30k in mine and am still doing some work on it. If you are moving forward, purchase a compressor. If you can't afford a compressor, how will you be able to afford the restoration? (just food for thought)

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by carcrazy View Post
    First off, this is going to be a sizable project. Before you go any further, if you haven't already, crawl up under the trunk and dash areas. I can tell you that most of these cars have rotted out channels that will require fabrication. Also understand that this process, even if you do all the work will be very expensive. I have well over 30k in mine and am still doing some work on it. If you are moving forward, purchase a compressor. If you can't afford a compressor, how will you be able to afford the restoration? (just food for thought)
    I've been under the car & I have minimal concerns which I intend to address. My garage is 10 1/2' wide. If a compressor will work for me in this environment let me know. I never said I couldn't afford one.

    If you have over 30k invested in your's I hope it's worth 60k. I can buy a 67 GTO in the condition I'm looking for for probably around 30K.

    Thanks

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I'm an epoxy primer user, I haven't used etch primer in a long time. I usually apply one or two coats of epoxy then apply a filler primer within the epoxy's recoat window so that they bond together and doesn't need sanding then I guide coat the filler primer and block sand with 400 or 600 wet prior to painting. Without a compressor you would need to use an aerosol that contains an interior cell which is ruptured to release the activator into the primer.

    Thanks again. Can I use rattle can filler primer also?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Thanks again. Can I use rattle can filler primer also?
    Yes, the same company makes a 2K filler primer linked below. They also make a 2K clear coat.


  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Thanks again. Can I use rattle can filler primer also?
    Thanks Len. I'm guessing once you "activate" the primer you need to use the entires can, right? Can you tell me about how much coverage I'll get with one can? Same questions for the filler.
    Thanks

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