TheCoatingStore.com

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 44 of 44

Thread: Painting my 67 GTO

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    Thanks Len. I'm guessing once you "activate" the primer you need to use the entires can, right? Can you tell me about how much coverage I'll get with one can? Same questions for the filler.
    Thanks
    Depending on the temperature you may get 3 or 4 hours to use it all. I just read that a guy sprayed a BMW 325 trunk lid with two coats and he still had a little left over.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    10,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I've been under the car & I have minimal concerns which I intend to address. My garage is 10 1/2' wide. If a compressor will work for me in this environment let me know. I never said I couldn't afford one.

    If you have over 30k invested in your's I hope it's worth 60k. I can buy a 67 GTO in the condition I'm looking for for probably around 30K.

    Thanks
    10 1/2' is pretty tight. For primer you could pull it outside and spray (unless your neighbors are real close)....the stuff dries quickly. Rent a compressor for a few days from a rental center and get yourself a cheap harbor freight "purple" gun or similar. It will make life easier.
    Cars are rarely worth the amount invested. My car would not bring 60k when completely finished...more like 40k-50k. Maybe less as all the old people who like these cars die off.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    454

    Default STOP thinging rattle cans!

    Quote Originally Posted by tommie.b View Post
    Please don't take this the wrong way BUT I would stop this project and save up and buy a good compressor ( we can help ) and start learning to do the work youself OR find a good shop and pay to have this car restored. GTO..............well worth it. just my 2 cents worth and we are here to help.
    If you are going to do the entire car and strip it down to metal, then do the metal work, then filler work - Stop thinking about the rattle cans, it will nickel and dime (actually closer to $25/can) you to death!

    Go buy an 80 gallon compressor with a big old 2-stage. It doesn't need to be new.

    Get an Air Gunza gun and use it for the poly primer. You have a LOT of steps in front of you prior to spraying paint.

    Use either Tamco or The Coatings Store for your initial products.

    Until you have the body straight, straight then straight, don't think about color.

    Do all your sanding and spray epoxy, then move onto your next panel. When you go back to shoot the whole car, yes you will need to sand the entire car, then reshoot with some thinned epoxy then start the rest of your work.

    But those rattle cans are going to be a waste of money. I am pretty new to this stuff but listen to some of these other guys, they are willing to share YEARS of very valuable knowledge with others if you are willing to listen and learn.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,876

    Default

    I've used those spray max cans a few times. They actually have a pot life of like 72hrs once you activate them.

    I forget what the recoat window is, but it was pretty short.

    https://download.kwasny.com/datashee...018_(US)EN.pdf

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    If you are going to do the entire car and strip it down to metal, then do the metal work, then filler work - Stop thinking about the rattle cans, it will nickel and dime (actually closer to $25/can) you to death!

    Go buy an 80 gallon compressor with a big old 2-stage. It doesn't need to be new.

    Get an Air Gunza gun and use it for the poly primer. You have a LOT of steps in front of you prior to spraying paint.

    Use either Tamco or The Coatings Store for your initial products.

    Until you have the body straight, straight then straight, don't think about color.

    Do all your sanding and spray epoxy, then move onto your next panel. When you go back to shoot the whole car, yes you will need to sand the entire car, then reshoot with some thinned epoxy then start the rest of your work.

    But those rattle cans are going to be a waste of money. I am pretty new to this stuff but listen to some of these other guys, they are willing to share YEARS of very valuable knowledge with others if you are willing to listen and learn.

    I think you are right on here. I've spoken to 3 different body work people & a guy at Sherwin Williams Automotive. I think I'll be looking for a compressor (40 to 50 gallon - 4 to 5 HP). My plan is to do one section at a time (strip to metal - two part epoxy primer - filler - block sand - guide coat - resand). First the hood, then fenders, etc. Is this the way to go & if so, how long do I have before I will need to apply the finish coats?
    Thanks

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I think you are right on here. I've spoken to 3 different body work people & a guy at Sherwin Williams Automotive. I think I'll be looking for a compressor (40 to 50 gallon - 4 to 5 HP). My plan is to do one section at a time (strip to metal - two part epoxy primer - filler - block sand - guide coat - resand). First the hood, then fenders, etc. Is this the way to go & if so, how long do I have before I will need to apply the finish coats?
    Thanks
    I just thought of something. If I farm out the finish coast & only do the primer (one section at a time as I said) can I get away with a smaller compressor?

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I just thought of something. If I farm out the finish coast & only do the primer (one section at a time as I said) can I get away with a smaller compressor?
    It depends on how much air (CFM) your compressor puts out, how much air (CFM) your spray gun uses, and the size of the area you're spraying.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    It depends on how much air (CFM) your compressor puts out, how much air (CFM) your spray gun uses, and the size of the area you're spraying.
    I'm looking at Eastwood's DeVilbiss two gun set. Requires 13 CFM at 30 PSI. Do I just look for a compressor with these specs no matter what the capacity & HP are?
    Last edited by Madgrocer13; 06-27-2019 at 12:13 PM.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    800

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I'm looking at Eastwood's DeVilbiss tow gun set. Requires 13 CFM at 30 PSI. Do I just look for a compressor with these specs no matter what the capacity & HP are?
    essentially. i always like to have some headroom on capacity. that way the poor compressor isn't running full time just keeping up. if it runs all the time it will make too much heat and moisture in the lines.
    b marler

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I'm looking at Eastwood's DeVilbiss two gun set. Requires 13 CFM at 30 PSI. Do I just look for a compressor with these specs no matter what the capacity & HP are?
    If the compressor's tank is large (60 to 80 gal) then your CFM can usually be less than the gun requires because you have enough air in reserve to allow the gun (or whatever) to perform properly. If the tank is small (50 gal. or less) then you'll need to produce more CFM. Also take a look at our DeVilbiss guns linked below.


  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If the compressor's tank is large (60 to 80 gal) then your CFM can usually be less than the gun requires because you have enough air in reserve to allow the gun (or whatever) to perform properly. If the tank is small (50 gal. or less) then you'll need to produce more CFM. Also take a look at our DeVilbiss guns linked below.

    What's SCFM?

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    What's SCFM?
    The small gun uses 10CFM and the larger gun uses 13 CFM. Both guns run at 30 PSI inlet pressure.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    18

    Default Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I'm an epoxy primer user, I haven't used etch primer in a long time. I usually apply one or two coats of epoxy then apply a filler primer within the epoxy's recoat window so that they bond together and doesn't need sanding then I guide coat the filler primer and block sand with 400 or 600 wet prior to painting. Without a compressor you would need to use an aerosol that contains an interior cell which is ruptured to release the activator into the primer.

    I notice the number 368032N. Is there a difference compared to 368033? I'm thinking maybe the color? I want black.
    Thanks

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Madgrocer13 View Post
    I notice the number 368032N. Is there a difference compared to 368033? I'm thinking maybe the color? I want black.
    Thanks
    Since I haven't used these products and I just started selling them I don't know for certain but it's probably only a color difference.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •