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Thread: Painting plastic is driving me nuts

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Boring Oregon
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    Default Well it's done

    And I'm happy. I have to say, I really like this Devilbiss FLG4 gun I bought. WOW what a difference from the generic china crap.
    IMG_1851.jpg

    IMG_1852.jpg

    IMG_1853.jpg

    I'll let this cure and then comes the polishing or just cutting the nibs off because I have no booth so I get dust.

    Is it ok to let this thing just sit for a year or two prior to cut and polish, or does it need to be done when fresh?

  2. #32
    PainterDave Guest

    Default

    something like that, if it was me id let it dry two days

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    14,819

    Default Better wait!

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    And I'm happy. I have to say, I really like this Devilbiss FLG4 gun I bought. WOW what a difference from the generic china crap.
    IMG_1851.jpg

    IMG_1852.jpg

    IMG_1853.jpg

    I'll let this cure and then comes the polishing or just cutting the nibs off because I have no booth so I get dust.

    Is it ok to let this thing just sit for a year or two prior to cut and polish, or does it need to be done when fresh?
    You said you were going to use ACRYLIC ENAMEL. That is a soft paint and takes a long time to cure (allow vapors to escape).

    Hopefully, you did use the hardener that is available for it. It adds gloss and durability and helps the cure time.

    Wait as long as you can and actually, being a steering wheel, much of the dust you have on the wheel will 'rub' off from just use of the wheel.

    Upon finishing, I would handle the wheel gingerly and by HAND. You shouldn't even need a machine and most likely would burn through one of the many radius's.

    Hey, feel good. It's been a lot of work, the wheel is black, looks great from here so all's good. Let it set and move on to the next portion. Good job!

    Henry

  4. #34
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    Aug 2013
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    Boring Oregon
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    Default

    Yeah, it is Nason ful-cryl-ii which did need a hardener.

    I will find a nice big box and in a couple days drop it in the box and let it set for however long it takes to need a finished steering wheel to install.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    "i think you already know the answer."

    I HATE THAT ANSWER!

    ok ok. I have sanded and smoothed and putty'd and swore so now it is smooth again.

    Since I have to mix something and shoot it, would I be better served to shoot a sealer coat of epoxy primer over the wheel, or just another layer of urethane 2k high build?
    I want to use this as a wet on wet coat to be followed up with the black SS top coat.

    The 2k laid down great but lays down thick. Plus it shrinks a bunch so I'm not sure if using the 2k as a wet on wet primer is the best option. I reckon I can thin it down a little but I'm not sure at this point whether spraying the top coat over the urethane or the epoxy would be best.

    edit: After calling my supplier, he says thin and 2k prime, then finish paint over the top within a half hour.
    sorry, didn't mean to annoy you. i just meant that there's usually no short cuts. you were hoping that there might be one, but knew deep down there wasn't.
    when you burn through, you have to add more product before top coating. be it primer, epoxy, sealer, whatever.
    glad it turned out good in the end.
    b marler

  6. #36
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    Aug 2013
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    Default

    It's all good. Steering wheels are hard because while you are laying a nice coat here, thru the wheel on the opposite side now you just sprayed a dry coat. I have a couple dry spray areas, but once it hardens up, I'm sure a little compound will smooth things out just fine.


    Yeah, I will spend 30 minutes avoiding mixing paint just to not have to spend 10 minutes cleaning the gun. lol.
    I blame anxiety.

  7. #37
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    It's all good. Steering wheels are hard because while you are laying a nice coat here, thru the wheel on the opposite side now you just sprayed a dry coat. I have a couple dry spray areas, but once it hardens up, I'm sure a little compound will smooth things out just fine.


    Yeah, I will spend 30 minutes avoiding mixing paint just to not have to spend 10 minutes cleaning the gun. lol.
    I blame anxiety.
    i agree, steering wheels are a difficult shape. i paint a ton of weird shaped items, frameworks, misc. parts. it takes practice to get it right. the steering wheel is even more challenging as you want it to look great because you are looking directly at it when behind the wheel.
    i always spray the inside corners first, and then come around to the outside and pretend the inside corners don't exist. when you time it right the paint will wet in and look great. acrylic enamel has a good long flow time so it works well for that. slow reducer can help as well.
    b marler

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