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Thread: treating pitted metal or surface rust with pitts

  1. #1

    Default treating pitted metal or surface rust with pitts

    There is so much information and products offered to treat surface rust or a panel with rust Pitts . I replace the panel if available but its not practical always , . All of the rattle can spray rust converters do not work IMO.
    The area will rust again right under primer and B/C coat and a couple years later , there it is again .
    Question
    Can anyone recommend a process ?
    Ex: 1951 Ford F100 Roof
    The roof is pretty solid but has lots of tiny pits after sand blasting and grinding to bare metal .

    Thank you for your help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
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    1,874

    Default

    If sandblasted, the pits should be clean. If they are not, either spot blast them again or you can use a dremel tool and grind each one out until the rust is gone. Yeah, it's a pain in the butt.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,553

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Throwingdeer View Post
    There is so much information and products offered to treat surface rust or a panel with rust Pitts . I replace the panel if available but its not practical always , . All of the rattle can spray rust converters do not work IMO.
    The area will rust again right under primer and B/C coat and a couple years later , there it is again .
    Question
    Can anyone recommend a process ?
    Ex: 1951 Ford F100 Roof
    The roof is pretty solid but has lots of tiny pits after sand blasting and grinding to bare metal .

    Thank you for your help
    The best method is to remove the rust using a spot blaster but on a large piece of sheet metal like that roof you need to be careful not to warp the metal. You can also remove the paint and primer using a sander then treat the metal with something like Picklex 20 before priming and painting.

    If the pits need filling you can use a thin coat of body filler or a spray-on filler primer then block sand.

  4. #4

    Default

    [QUOTE=Len;365667]The best method is to remove the rust using a spot blaster but on a large piece of sheet metal like that roof you need to be careful not to warp the metal. You can also remove the paint and primer using a sander then treat the metal with something like Picklex 20 before priming and painting.

    I am going to order the PICKLER 20 and try it on my F100 .

    Thank you

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,553

    Default

    [QUOTE=Throwingdeer;365681]
    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    The best method is to remove the rust using a spot blaster but on a large piece of sheet metal like that roof you need to be careful not to warp the metal. You can also remove the paint and primer using a sander then treat the metal with something like Picklex 20 before priming and painting.

    I am going to order the PICKLER 20 and try it on my F100 .

    Thank you
    Let me know when you get the Picklex so that I can tell you my method of using it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Northern MN
    Posts
    38

    Default

    I am encountering this issue (pits on roof) yet again. I haven't been satisfied with my spot blaster as it leaves a little high spot. Maybe I am being too aggressive with it. I have used various products like Picklex, Rust Mort, etc. The thing that bothers me about those is when used on the roof, it is bound to get in the drip rail and under the roof skin where it can't be wiped out with a damp towel. I don't like to rinse with the hose or spray bottle because there is usually a lot of other bare metal that I don't want to get wet.

    I am thinking about taking the surface to bare metal with the DA, maybe a little wire wheel in the pits, then treating the area with pits with POR15 or Zero Rust. When fully cured, DA again, which would leave the POR15 or ZR just in the pits. This car is getting a vinyl roof so I wouldn't even worry about filler. I would just epoxy over the whole roof and call it good. Has anyone tried this?

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MT99 View Post
    I am encountering this issue (pits on roof) yet again. I haven't been satisfied with my spot blaster as it leaves a little high spot. Maybe I am being too aggressive with it. I have used various products like Picklex, Rust Mort, etc. The thing that bothers me about those is when used on the roof, it is bound to get in the drip rail and under the roof skin where it can't be wiped out with a damp towel. I don't like to rinse with the hose or spray bottle because there is usually a lot of other bare metal that I don't want to get wet.

    I am thinking about taking the surface to bare metal with the DA, maybe a little wire wheel in the pits, then treating the area with pits with POR15 or Zero Rust. When fully cured, DA again, which would leave the POR15 or ZR just in the pits. This car is getting a vinyl roof so I wouldn't even worry about filler. I would just epoxy over the whole roof and call it good. Has anyone tried this?
    POR15 dries to a very hard, SLICK coating and paint will not stick to it after cured...you'll have to scuff the crap out of it yet again down inside those pits and POR doesn't scuff nicely.

    Be careful with the wire wheel. The reason you are getting a high spot with the little blaster is likely because yes, you are hitting it too hard too fast and it is warping the metal. The wire wheel can quickly heat things up as well due to the friction...and you will likely be "forcing" it in the low spots to get everything.

    You'll get there. You migth try the picklex type products with one of the little toothbrush sized wire brushes and just work at it. I'd find one with the brass bristles and give that a shot..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,553

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    Fout rules when using Picklex 20.....

    1. Wet the Surface with Picklex then work it in with a scuff pad.

    2. After a minute or two wipe off the Picklex with a dry towel or paper towel. Don't use water.

    3. Allow the Picklex to dry fully then scuff it with some 220/320 sandpaper.

    4. Only top coat the Picklex with primer that contains NO ACID.

    This stuff works great when used properly.

  9. #9

    Default

    For filling in pits I've used Masterseries silver with good results

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rustedgoat View Post
    For filling in pits I've used Masterseries silver with good results
    this stuff seems very similar to por 15. it says it cures rock hard. por 15 does the same and it tends to crack if it flexes and lets moisture creep underneath. it's hard to detect until the damage is done.
    have you seen this sort of thing happen with the masterseries silver? the idea behind it is very good, but if it's not flexible i would have to be careful where i applied it.
    b marler

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