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Thread: Small burn through clear

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    456

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMTC View Post
    I bought a new finish line gun and I am going to base coat the rear quarter then re clear whole tub this weekend. How many coats clear should I put on? 3?

    Jim
    Jim,

    If you think that you are going to be wet sanding your clear again, I'd put on three coats at least.

    I've had good results with both the Coatings Stores products and the Tamco Euro Clear HC-2104. I think that it was around $165/gallon including the activator.

    With the mail order stuff, you just have to buy enough ahead of time. Since I am still in the Sand Off more than I Keep rookie mode, I purchase it by the gallon.

    For adding clear coating over existing dried clears, I usually wet sand to 1000, then use a gel scuffing paste to clean, then clean water, then solvent prep, then water based prep. But like I said, I am still in the rookie section of this hobby.

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Jim,

    If you think that you are going to be wet sanding your clear again, I'd put on three coats at least.

    I've had good results with both the Coatings Stores products and the Tamco Euro Clear HC-2104. I think that it was around $165/gallon including the activator.

    With the mail order stuff, you just have to buy enough ahead of time. Since I am still in the Sand Off more than I Keep rookie mode, I purchase it by the gallon.

    For adding clear coating over existing dried clears, I usually wet sand to 1000, then use a gel scuffing paste to clean, then clean water, then solvent prep, then water based prep. But like I said, I am still in the rookie section of this hobby.
    I spent the time and blocked this thing super strait and I want to see that at the end, so yes I will be taking out the peel and there will be plenty i'm sure.
    I am used to painting my backhoe's and dump truck etc so I am very novice at it. So I think 3 coats it is.
    At the moment the existing paint has been compounded and polished obviously scrub it before i start any sanding. The only products I know of is wax/grease remover and wipe and wash. I will check and see if I can get that other material locally.
    Thanks for the input
    Jim

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    800

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Jim,

    If you think that you are going to be wet sanding your clear again, I'd put on three coats at least.

    I've had good results with both the Coatings Stores products and the Tamco Euro Clear HC-2104. I think that it was around $165/gallon including the activator.

    With the mail order stuff, you just have to buy enough ahead of time. Since I am still in the Sand Off more than I Keep rookie mode, I purchase it by the gallon.

    For adding clear coating over existing dried clears, I usually wet sand to 1000, then use a gel scuffing paste to clean, then clean water, then solvent prep, then water based prep. But like I said, I am still in the rookie section of this hobby.
    i'd hardly call you a rookie. the stuff you do is really amazing.
    b marler

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Jim,

    If you think that you are going to be wet sanding your clear again, I'd put on three coats at least.

    I've had good results with both the Coatings Stores products and the Tamco Euro Clear HC-2104. I think that it was around $165/gallon including the activator.

    With the mail order stuff, you just have to buy enough ahead of time. Since I am still in the Sand Off more than I Keep rookie mode, I purchase it by the gallon.

    For adding clear coating over existing dried clears, I usually wet sand to 1000, then use a gel scuffing paste to clean, then clean water, then solvent prep, then water based prep. But like I said, I am still in the rookie section of this hobby.
    Well I hand blocked the whole car down with 600 dry,. re-based and I am waiting to put on my third coat of clear as I sit here and type. The new gun works a lot better than that $60 dollar one they sold me saying "they do all their clears with that gun" ugh, live and learn. anyway all is good thanks for the help everyone.
    Jim

  5. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMTC View Post
    Well I hand blocked the whole car down with 600 dry,. re-based and I am waiting to put on my third coat of clear as I sit here and type. The new gun works a lot better than that $60 dollar one they sold me saying "they do all their clears with that gun" ugh, live and learn. anyway all is good thanks for the help everyone.
    Jim
    I'm wet sanding the roof of car with p1000 wet and so far noticed a single deep fish eye, If I mixed up a few drops of clear and dabbed a tiny bit in the hole you think it would blend in so I could sand it smooth tomorrow, 24 hr window ends a 930 tonight.
    Thankscamaro2.jpgcamaro1.jpg
    Last edited by JMTC; 01-06-2019 at 05:45 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,568

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    Yes, scuff into the low spot then apply a drop of clear then allow it to harden and block it smooth with some 2500 grit wet sandpaper and polish it. If it's on a horizontal surface you should be able to do it with one drop but if it's on a vertical surface you may need to block it then repeat the process to get it level.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    456

    Default Looks Good!

    Jim,

    The Camaro looks great from here! What color is that?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    12,708

    Default It is...

    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Jim,

    The Camaro looks great from here! What color is that?
    Blue!

    Henry

  9. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    Jim,

    The Camaro looks great from here! What color is that?
    Thanks, 1978 Gm paint code 22

  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMTC View Post
    Ugh, I noticed a wave in the rear fender body line from a run I sanded out. I put sharpie all over it as a guide coat and wet sanded with p1200 then buffed. I burned through again
    I only put 2 coats of clear on in the first place, (advice from local body shop owner) I assume that suggestion was a save money business thing. anyway I am leaning on a complete re-clear because of the burn through's and the fact that out of those 2 coats there is likely only 1/2 coat left after sanding out all the orange peel.
    It's been 2 weeks since I painted the tub.
    Correct me if i'm wrong: I don't need to redo door jambs, rockers or trunk opening, just mask a soft edge and scuff around openings.
    My biggest fear is that the new clear won't stick to the old (sanded of course) as Kevin from Eastwood points out it's now a mechanical bond not chemical.
    question: Will this new clear bond, look, last as good as clear bonded to base?
    If I want perfection should I start over from square one with paint stripper?
    No reason to go back to square 1. There are loads of cars with clear over old paint going up and down the road. The rep you are talking to is probably playing it safe as well as possibly not taking your sanding of the current surface into consideration. You will never know if you cleared over sanded clear or base coat. You can have layers back and forth between clear and base and hide them just fine if you know what you are doing (that's what body shops do).

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If you sand it well with some 1200/1500 and you're using a "good" clear you should be fine. Good clear usually costs between $200 and $300 a gallon plus the hardener and reducer.
    Len, I'm new to the forum and certainly don't want to lock horns with the main-man right off the bat, but do you actually get by with 1500 + another coat of clear? I'd recommend 800 for something like that, especially when we don't know how well the product will stick to the old surface due to lack of experience with it.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NORTH JUAREZ
    Posts
    3,051

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    I was gonna say to spot paint the burt area make use and go light coats so no wrinkle will happen and clear whole panel..

    The other way looks ok for awhile but eventually you'll have a blend line come back even if you use meltaway.


    20170808_134959.jpg

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NORTH JUAREZ
    Posts
    3,051

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    Quote Originally Posted by jake_h View Post
    No reason to go back to square 1. There are loads of cars with clear over old paint going up and down the road. The rep you are talking to is probably playing it safe as well as possibly not taking your sanding of the current surface into consideration. You will never know if you cleared over sanded clear or base coat. You can have layers back and forth between clear and base and hide them just fine if you know what you are doing (that's what body shops do).



    Len, I'm new to the forum and certainly don't want to lock horns with the main-man right off the bat, but do you actually get by with 1500 + another coat of clear? I'd recommend 800 for something like that, especially when we don't know how well the product will stick to the old surface due to lack of experience with it.
    I noticed when we would sand and clear headlights that one rock chip would peel clear with 1500 then 1200 the same 800 sometimes shows sand Mark's in the plastic still but 1000 was perfect.. if its decent clear I think 800 should work fine 1k would too.. another thought is if he applies clear heavy it might wrinkle in certain spots I've had that happen before too..m4vawm0.jpg

  13. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by style View Post
    I noticed when we would sand and clear headlights that one rock chip would peel clear with 1500 then 1200 the same 800 sometimes shows sand Mark's in the plastic still but 1000 was perfect.. if its decent clear I think 800 should work fine 1k would too.. another thought is if he applies clear heavy it might wrinkle in certain spots I've had that happen before too..
    Yeah, clear fills pretty good or it seems to. In fact before I knew anything but thought I knew everything (Probably still in this era LOL) I sanded clear coat with 400 to have work done over it and that job turned out fine...

    Bring me one of those cookies.

  14. #29

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    If you are using mail order for your paint.
    Take a look at SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc.).

    https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

    They are very much orientated to the DIY guy and hobbyist collector car type work. I am really a fan of their Epoxy primer and clear coats.
    Downside is they are not able to match a lot of factory colors and have a limited color line. But there are a number of manufactures that do the factory mixes..
    .
    .
    .

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    9

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    Quote Originally Posted by clubairth1 View Post
    If you are using mail order for your paint.
    Take a look at SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc.).

    https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

    They are very much orientated to the DIY guy and hobbyist collector car type work. I am really a fan of their Epoxy primer and clear coats.
    Downside is they are not able to match a lot of factory colors and have a limited color line. But there are a number of manufactures that do the factory mixes..
    .
    .
    .
    I've tried a few mail order paints, surprised me was the coating store material, I did a mustang awhile back been almost two years now still looks good had to wait a month to polish it correctly tried sooner but it stayed so soft a micro towel would mark it, cant wait to try out their chrome paint next week I ordered one of each shade

    as far as a burn through might be easier to spray some clear on that area only then wait a day and scuff it with a grey pad and then put base and reclear etc so you don't have recoatlift.

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