TheCoatingStore.com

Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Passenger fender question this time.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,890

    Default Passenger fender question this time.

    Hi guys, I really appreciate all your ideas and suggestions, they really do help.

    This is how the nose of this fender should look.

    IMG_0435.jpg

    So on to the opposite side fender now for metal working.
    Here is how it was after stripping.
    IMG_0369.jpg

    So far, I have it to this stage. The low spots in black are no more than 1/8" deep, so although this looks like it is really bad, it was wrinkled over on itself when I started.
    IMG_0436.jpg

    IMG_0437.jpg

    You can see all the holes that were drilled for the old style body hammer and they just paved it over with bondo. After using a stud welder and hammer, I got it looking like it is now, but the missing body line where the holes are on top is really thin metal. (circled)

    IMG_0436marked.jpg
    I'm thinking cut it out and hand form a patch panel, but I'm wondering how far back I should try to go? A smaller patch panel is going to be easier, so I was thinking of cutting it just inside the front edge fender line back about 2 inches. That way the very front lip would be original, and I would would not be welding on that edge, so something kind of like the larger circle shown.

    Remember now, I'm a fair hack, but not a pro by miles.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,610

    Default

    If you have the ability to form and weld in that patch then go for it. Personally I would probably try to do a little more straightening then fiberglass fill the damage then use a bondo-type filler to finish the shaping then apply some of the good Fusor seam sealer on the inside after priming the inside metal. However a good patch can work as long as you seal the seams on the inside.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,890

    Default

    I can do the welding ok, but I don't have squat for forming that panel. A bead roller would be perfect for this I think.

    I can certainly weld up those holes and bash, I mean massage the metal out a bit. Would short strand everglass be ok for that or should I jump up to their kitty hair products?

    I'm about as far as I can finesse this with the slide hammer and puller from outside so I will pull it off the car so I can get a dolly back there and do a bit of metal beating.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,610

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    I can do the welding ok, but I don't have squat for forming that panel. A bead roller would be perfect for this I think.

    I can certainly weld up those holes and bash, I mean massage the metal out a bit. Would short strand everglass be ok for that or should I jump up to their kitty hair products?

    I'm about as far as I can finesse this with the slide hammer and puller from outside so I will pull it off the car so I can get a dolly back there and do a bit of metal beating.
    I would use short strand, you're after it's moisture resistance not strength. But be sure to use a "good" sealer on the backside whether you straighten or replace the metal.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    802

    Default

    i'd try welding a series of small welds on the body line and shape it match the other side. not a ton of metal, but enough so you can grind/file it into shape without cutting through. at times i have welded a length of tig rod to the edges to have something to work with. i just like to have a real metal edge, then use the filler to smooth.
    b marler

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,890

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    i'd try welding a series of small welds on the body line and shape it match the other side. not a ton of metal, but enough so you can grind/file it into shape without cutting through. at times i have welded a length of tig rod to the edges to have something to work with. i just like to have a real metal edge, then use the filler to smooth.
    See, thats a good idea that I never would have come up with on my own.


    Len, As to the sealer, I intend to do the outside work, then epoxy prime,(or zero rust) the inside of the fender and making sure I get it covered up in there. After that I intend to use a seam sealer to paint over the inside too. Are there some 2 part seam sealers that will fit into a standard caulking gun? I hate to spend another $45 on a gun if I don't have to. I think Eastwood has some like that but.... eastwood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    40,610

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    See, thats a good idea that I never would have come up with on my own.


    Len, As to the sealer, I intend to do the outside work, then epoxy prime,(or zero rust) the inside of the fender and making sure I get it covered up in there. After that I intend to use a seam sealer to paint over the inside too. Are there some 2 part seam sealers that will fit into a standard caulking gun? I hate to spend another $45 on a gun if I don't have to. I think Eastwood has some like that but.... eastwood.
    Those Fusor sealers are moisture cured urethane, they bond real well to the surface and remain slightly flexible. This means that they won't crack down the road and, if applied properly, they will outlast the car.

    Evercoat makes a two part sealer that can be used with a standard caulk gun. LINK I sell it but I've never used it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    12,750

    Default Name!

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    See, thats a good idea that I never would have come up with on my own.


    Len, As to the sealer, I intend to do the outside work, then epoxy prime,(or zero rust) the inside of the fender and making sure I get it covered up in there. After that I intend to use a seam sealer to paint over the inside too. Are there some 2 part seam sealers that will fit into a standard caulking gun? I hate to spend another $45 on a gun if I don't have to. I think Eastwood has some like that but.... eastwood.
    My shop supplier has brand name products and an abundance of aftermarket makers products.

    Caution to you for Seam Sealer. STICK WITH the brand name batch. Two I can think of right off would be 3M or FUSOR. I use the Fusor brand and I get it from Len. His price is competitive with my jobber, so!

    This is a product you don't want to save a buck and go with something unknown or unbranded.

    Put another way, 3M and FUSOR spend more in research than aftermarket competitors gross in annual sales.

    Same thing for drugs. When a Brand name drug becomes Generic it does contain the SAME active ingredient but the carrier can be garbage and hurt the overall effect of the drug. Same goes for other products.

    Just sayin.

    Henry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,890

    Default

    I have a 5 year old can of 3m brushable 1k that is still pliable and looks good but I was thinking I wanted to get some new stuff. My local jobber has the Lord Fusor stuff so I will probably check out what they have. Sadly it does cost money.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Boring Oregon
    Posts
    1,890

    Default

    Here is where I got with my welding.
    IMG_0447.jpg

    Little bit of Everglass over it.
    IMG_0449.jpg

    Roughed in with some 80 grit.
    IMG_0452.jpg

    And here is what it looks like on the back side. It ain't perfect, but neither am I.
    IMG_0455.jpg

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    12,750

    Default Good...

    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    Here is where I got with my welding.

    And here is what it looks like on the back side. It ain't perfect, but neither am I.
    IMG_0455.jpg
    Those welds look really good. Got those holes perfectly. Good job!

    Now, keep going.

    Henry

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •