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Thread: How T Fix The GM Egged Out Door Droop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005

    Default How T Fix The GM Egged Out Door Droop

    Iíve had a few of these and as most know by the time you see the door drop, and actually decide to do something about it( come on ya know you put it offĒ it isnít going to be an easy fix. Those kits only work if the door pin ONLY is worn which donít happen in nature right? The hinge itself is egged out ( Top one at least) and thatís not going to change with the new kit.
    Iíd thought about welding my last one with the newer double hinge setup but always been put off by posts elsewhere stating it was last resort, hard to get at to redo once welded. Then when my new hinge resumed the droop almost immediately I finally said what the hell and just looked at it. What could be easier? Thereís plenty of room to get in there with a grinder let alone a die grinder so why not.
    All I did after removing the battery lead was hold that wobbly top pin with a gloved finger and tack both sides. After that I did enough I knew it would hold and tried the door, perfect. Then removed the door and welded around the rest of the way. A few licks on the high spots with the grinder a dab of paint and done. I did grease it a few days later. Itís held up splendidly for 2 years now and I use it as a ranch truck so am in and out a lot. All it took was som .035 on my wire feed HH. Iím sure you could do the same with a stick welder and 3/32 using 6011. Iíll be doing that with my next droopy door for sure.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005


    The last one of those that I did I purchased a pin kit that came with a sleeve the fit in the distorted top hole. The sleeve fit tightly in the hole and corrected the problem, no welding needed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2018


    I actually used some "SteelStik" to back up the upper bushing on my aunt's S-10 Blazer. She let it go long enough that the hinge on the body was wallowed out some. She has power windows, power locks, and power mirrors, so she really didn't want to mess with removing the door to fix it properly. She bought the new pin/bushing kit, and I already had the epoxy left from another project. I held the door up with a couple of screw jacks and moved it a little so I could get to the bushings. Only the upper hinge hole of the upper hinge was egged out, but nowhere near as much as I thought it would be. The pin itself was pretty worn, though. I tapped all of the new bushings in place, moved the door back in place, and drove in the pins. With the door still supported on the jacks, I forced the epoxy into the gap and let it set for 15-20 minutes. Removed the jacks, closed the door, and let it set for several hours. I let her know that it was a jack-leg repair and may not last. If it sags again, the door will have to come off to do it right. Still holding up several months later, we'll see how long it lasts.

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