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Thread: Trunk Pan...how to do it right?

  1. #1

    Default Trunk Pan...how to do it right?

    I'm restoring a 1970 Dodge Challenger. The trunk pan is surprisingly solid. After some aggressive wire-wheeling, I only encountered 12 total pinholes. I will plan to weld those shut after rust treatment using a copper spoon.

    Metal is kinda a dull dark color now with areas of pitting. But solid and structurally sound.

    My thought is to apply Rust Mort, then Epoxy Prime. The SEM representative may think that I cleaned it a bit to much for Rust Mort to be the most effective.

    I got to thinking if Picklex would be better since I've already "cleaned" the metal pretty well. Thoughts?

    I know that wire wheeling cannot successfuly get everything when there's little pits, so it definitely needs product.

    trunk.jpg

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Howdy!

    I'm restoring a 1970 Challenger, too.

    In nearly thirty years of working on Mopars, I've never been happy with rust conversions or coatings. I prefer to remove the rust completely (sandblasting and/or cutting it out completely), so maybe I'm not the right guy to answer your question. But with that caveat, I've found three options when doing trunk floors:

    1. Sandblast the trunk and weld up a few pinholes, prime, paint. It's very rare to find a car this solid.

    2. Sandblast the trunk and butt weld patches in place to fix small (say, less than 100 sq inches) areas of thin metal. This seems like a good option but unless there are only one or two small areas to patch, this option takes much more time and is more aggravating than it's worth.

    3. Cut the old floor out by drilling or grinding the spot welds, cleaning up the frame rails, and welding a new trunk floor in place.

    In my experience, unless you are restoring a hemi or six pack car where you are trying to save as much factory sheet metal at any cost, you are time and money ahead to replace that trunk floor. You will be much happier with clean, solid metal than thin, heavily pitted metal. In my opinion, this would constitute 'doing it right' (per your post).

    By the way, Is that fk5 burnt orange? Love that color! Show us more pictures of your car and your plans for it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    38,272

    Default

    Gee Nate, I'm sorry I missed your post back in July. I would probably cut out the old metal but leave as much good metal around the edge as possible. I'd purchase new metal, cut it to size and use panel bonding material to glue it in. I usually don't use panel bonding on exterior panels for for floors it works great.


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    9,141

    Default NATE - PLEASE...

    PLEASE take that can of WD40 out of ANY area of bodywork. One tiny shot of spray and the mist will travel to where you 'ain't gonna want it'.

    Keep us posted on your efforts. Will turn out to be a nice project.

    Henry

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