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Thread: Delfleet essential

  1. #1
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    Default Delfleet essential

    6-1-1 rati how much reducer to add? How many coats?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffwall67 View Post
    6-1-1 rati how much reducer to add? How many coats?
    What does the tech sheet say?

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
    What does the tech sheet say?

    Brian
    Nothing about reducing but reading need to reduce to make flow better

  4. #4
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    Try heating the paint up to say 90 degrees. It will thin out without the need for reducer. Test it with a viscosity cup if you have one to get the temperature right. Soak the paint can in hot water for a while and see if that helps if you don't have any other way to heat it. Read the temperature with a non contact IR thermometer. If you don't have one get one because they are cheap and useful every time you paint for checking the temperature of the panel you are painting as well as monitoring the heating to fast cure the paint.

    Bob K

  5. #5
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    i use DelFleet Evolution reducers. could probably add no more than 10%, i would start with 5%

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    i use DelFleet Evolution reducers. could probably add no more than 10%, i would start with 5%
    The body shop I got it from is telling 30 to 40 percent

  7. #7
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    They do have viscosity cup listing on the tech sheet.


    The tech sheet that I saw said it was 6:1:1 (ESSS:ESH200:ESX5xx)

    Which is;
    ESSS – Essential Color
    ESH200 - Hardener
    ESX5xx – different Activators

    * What is the difference between a “Hardener” and a “Activator”?

  8. #8
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    Making it "Flow" is one of the worse mistakes people make. Listen, if there was one thing I learned as a paint rep is that there is one single problem that causes more failures than anything else, it's solvent entrapment. There is nothing that causes more problems, bar none, than solvent entrapment caused by over reducing, too slow of gun travel, too much overlap, using too slow a reducer for the temp, not letting it flash long enough between coats, there is NOTHING but NOTHING that causes more problems than solvent entrapment.

    What you need is to learn how to apply paint properly to get it to "flow" more properly called "layout" when you spray it. You are trying to make up for poor technique or equipment my adding more solvent! That is WRONG, don't do that.

    Think about this, the paint company spends millions of dollars creating it's products, they want it to look good right? If they couldn't walk into a body shop and spray it looking good they would be out of business. But they do that every day, spraying it just as it says on the tech sheet, no adding more reducer, just spraying it properly.

    Study that and you will solve your problem instead of creating more problems by over reducing.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffwall67 View Post
    6-1-1 rati how much reducer to add? How many coats?
    If the mix ratio is 6 -1 - 1 Then that means 6 parts paint to 1 part hardener to 1 part reducer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldFatBald View Post
    They do have viscosity cup listing on the tech sheet.


    The tech sheet that I saw said it was 6:1:1 (ESSS:ESH200:ESX5xx)

    Which is;
    ESSS – Essential Color
    ESH200 - Hardener
    ESX5xx – different Activators

    * What is the difference between a “Hardener” and a “Activator”?
    I have no friggin idea what they are talking about, other than if the "activator" is a marketing term for reducer. The Reducer may have something in it that helps "kick" the hardener I guess, but that is an odd term.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
    Making it "Flow" is one of the worse mistakes people make. Listen, if there was one thing I learned as a paint rep is that there is one single problem that causes more failures than anything else, it's solvent entrapment. There is nothing that causes more problems, bar none, than solvent entrapment caused by over reducing, too slow of gun travel, too much overlap, using too slow a reducer for the temp, not letting it flash long enough between coats, there is NOTHING but NOTHING that causes more problems than solvent entrapment.

    What you need is to learn how to apply paint properly to get it to "flow" more properly called "layout" when you spray it. You are trying to make up for poor technique or equipment my adding more solvent! That is WRONG, don't do that.

    Think about this, the paint company spends millions of dollars creating it's products, they want it to look good right? If they couldn't walk into a body shop and spray it looking good they would be out of business. But they do that every day, spraying it just as it says on the tech sheet, no adding more reducer, just spraying it properly.

    Study that and you will solve your problem instead of creating more problems by over reducing.

    Brian
    I agree with what your saying I haven' sprayed yet I was just confused why they're telling me to reduce so much when tech sheet doesn't say too

  12. #12
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    Jul 2016
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    like i said above. 10% no more. if your paint is cold you can not just add reducer. i been spraying DelFleet over 10 years.

    yes the Activator is not just reducer. its what makes the paint dry.

    DelFleet using different methods as far as accelerators go, that activator is pretty much just that a accelerator designed to kick in when all solvents have left.


    if you got a ZAHN #2 Viscosity cup the PROPER way to do your mix would be 6:1:1 then using a delfleet urethane reducer add 5% till you Achieve the proper viscosity.

    im guessing you dont own one or you would already know what to do.


    so... i think 10% will get you where you want to be. i recommend F3340 slow if painting something big.

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