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Thread: 72 chevelle hood adjustment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Default 72 chevelle hood adjustment

    I'm putting this hood on a buddies chevelle. It fits pretty good but the back of it needs to move to the passenger side. It's much more pronounced when it's open. As it shuts it's moving to the passenger side. Almost like the hinges aren't closing straight up and down, but closing at an angle. How do I go about shimming the side to side of the hinges? Shims under the hinge to fender mounting? Fenders currently match up well to the doors. I'm not looking to make it perfect, but better so the back of the hood doesn't try to close on top of the drivers fender.

    Car had a fiberglass lift off racing type hood on it before, and the owner hated that. He wanted this hood and actual hinges and springs so it won't be such a PIA to do maintenance on. Eventually the car needs a full repaint.

    THanks
    Jeremy

    chevelle3.jpgchevelle2.jpg
    Avid collector of rust!

  2. #2
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    I think MartinSr did a write up on adjusting hoods...seems like I remember he did a lot better job explaining how to adjust the up/down adjustment on the rear better than I could...look in the classroom section.

    I'd start by removing the latch...I don't like the latch or the spring dictating where my hood is going to be. Once I had everything fitting like I wanted, I'd reinstall those parts and adjust them to fit the hood.

    Just looking at your pictures, looks like the front end could be shifted slightly to the driver side of the car. Hard to say until you get the passenger side hinge to sit down like it's supposed to.

  3. #3
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    Sam is right, check out Brian's recommendations HERE.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks for the tips guys. I did read Brians article about setting panels. I might have missed it, but didn't see where he discussed getting it to fit side to side beside the hinges. All of his other suggestions are really good. I didn't have the rear adjusted yet for height when I first posted this or the following two pictures.

    This is the passenger side hood to fender clearance with the hood up.
    IMG_8920.jpg

    This is the driver side hood to fender clearance with the hood up.
    IMG_8921.jpg

    The hood is really skewed to the drivers side. When shut the hood moves over to the passenger side. The hinges are new aftermarket. Fenders don't appear to have been wrecked. Hood is a used original and has been wrecked once before on the passenger side front.
    Avid collector of rust!

  5. #5
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    This is the hood after i did adjust the hinges to get the back of the hood to sit down. I also shimmed the drivers side hood hinge behind the front bolt and it did stop the hood from rubbing the fender at the back beside the hinge.

    IMG_8922.jpgIMG_8923.jpg
    Avid collector of rust!

  6. #6
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    I still vote for the hood needs to be adjusted with the striker/latch off...shove the rear of the hood to the passenger side of the car (loosen the front hinge-to-hood bolt on one side, rear bolt on the other, pull/push to right side, tighten). Adjust front sheetmetal/radiator support 1/8 inch to the right to clear everything up, then reinstall/adjust striker/latch

  7. #7
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    It's kinda hard to tell from these photos but it looks like the fender is in closer to the A pillar on the drivers side? The rest of the hood fits so darn good, it looks like the fender is what's off to me.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  8. #8
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    If the hood is moving over then the hood isn't aligned properly and the latch is what is pulling it over (or something else is hitting somewhere) but it needs to open and close nice without the latch.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default BASICS...

    Below is a COPY of what Brian wrote (from the CLASSROOM here on body alignment. This is part of what he said on hoods:

    "Hood alignment: Letís start with raising and lowering the rear of the hood. If the car you are working on has a hinge that sits on top of the cowl, your only options are to shim or bend the hinge. Bending the hinge slightly is one way to move it. If you need to come up in the rear you can put a small block of wood or other item on the hinge, to bend it. When you close the hood down (NOT ALL THE WAY) it will get in the way of the hood closing and bend the rear or the hinge up. If you need to bend it down, the only option may be to remove it and bend it a little. You can also shim the bolts between the hood and the hinge, more on this later.

    If you have a hood where the hinge mounts on the side of the fender or the side of the cowl like with an older car or truck, you want to "rotate" the hinge on the fender. Just pushing the hinge up and down will give you very little movement on the top of the hood.


    This is the strange little trick that you have to remember, if you raise the back of the hood on the hinge or raise the back of the hinge on the fender the hood will go up. If you raise the "front" of the back of the hood ON THE HINGE or the hinge to the fender it will go down. What you have to remember is you are working with a pivot point in the hinge, not a stationary part.

    If you loosen the FRONT bolt on the hood (where it bolts to the hinge) and put a shim, or washer between the hood and hinge, this will LOWER the hood on that side. If you put that same washer under the rear bolt it will RAISE the rear of the hood on that side.

    So, if you loosen the bolts from the hinge to fender and close the hood, the hinge will rotate on down in the front right? This will raise the REAR of the hood like putting a shim in the back bolt between the hinge and hood!

    What you need to do to lower the back the hood is to loosen the bolts (only slightly) and PUSH UP on the front of the hood. This rotates the hinges back, thus raising the front of the hinge and lowering the hood in the back.

    If the hinges are warn out it wonít change how high the hood sits when the wear, not by more than a fraction of an inch. And I have never seen a car with these style hinges that you couldn't put the hood a half inch LOWER than the fenders if you wanted to. The adjustment is HUGE on these cars. That is one of the things that is easy to do on them is align panels.


    Henry

  10. #10
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    You need to start at square one -- drivers door and passenger front door on EVERY vehicle before you try and adjust the hood. Start with the drivers door with rear door edge to quarter panel gap. Then make sure the gap between the door bottom and the rocker panel line up. Then check for fitment with the front of the door to front hinge pillar. Make sure the there is no air gap between the front inner part of the door to hinge pillar. If any of those adjustments are off then you are wasting your time trying to adjust the front fender and the hood. On the older hardtop cars you will also need to adjust the door glass to fit properly so that it seals properly when closed and not too tight to where it causes pressure closing the door. Once you get the doors adjusted properly THEN you move on to the front fenders with adjusting the rear gap first. Set the hood in the hole ( and like Sam suggested remove the hood latch so that it isn't moving the hood around. ) Next adjust the rear of the hood to line up with the fenders, as far as forward and back. Up and down at the rear of the hood really isn't important at this point. When you have the rear of the hood properly aligned with the fenders then SLOWLY close the hood and check the gap at the front of the hood to fender alignment as well as hood to header panel adjustment. And I agree with Sam again as far as the front of the fenders sheet metal/core support and probably kicked over a little. When the back to the hood is properly lined up and when you slowly and carefully close the hood if the front end is not kicked over then the fender to hood front gaps should be good. There will be a little wiggle room adjusting the fender fronts to hood gap but if it goes beyond that and you have a wide gap on one side and the hood/fender hitting on the other side then you need to move the core support (radiators support).

    On cars with a frame there will only be two bolts that go through the radiator support to the front frame rails (one bolt on each side).
    Loosen those two bolts and move the front end over left or right until the fenders line up with the hood front edge. You might have to fine tune the rear part of the front fenders if you have to move the core support over, depending on how far you have to move the core support over. Adjusting the rear part of the hood for up and down can be a real pain in the ass, especially if the hinges are starting to wear out or are worn out. Adjusting the hood hinges on 60's and 70's cars/trucks is another whole story by itself.

    And again -- like Sam said - get the hood fitting right THEN reinstall the front latch. You're pissin' into the wind trying to adjust a hood with the hood latch in place.

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