TheCoatingStore.com

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 18 of 18

Thread: Belts for air sander - spot weld removal

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    802

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    I can't picture a belt sander being any good at removing spot welds. I think I saw the same video you did on YouTube. That was pure 100% bullshit about the cobalt spot weld drill bit taking so long and needing that much pressure to cut through. In real life it would have cut through in a 3 or 4 seconds. And it would have taken a LOT longer for that belt sander to cut through the first layer of a spot weld.

    I have used the spot weld cutter bits with the spring tip and the replaceable cutters but they have a tendency to break off the teeth on those cutters.
    The one Len posted with a picture is probably the best all around spot weld cutter. I make a couple of them out of old regular high speed steel drill bits and a bench grinder. They have lasted a LOT longer that I had expected (several years). Seems like crystallized rust (sandwiched in between the two layers of a spot weld) is really hard on spot weld bits.
    those band files, or small belt sanders have their place, but i can't imagine spot weld cutting to be one of them. i use one for blending welds on pipe and stuff, but spot welds?
    i haven't seen the video though, maybe i'm missing something?
    b marler

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,347

    Default

    I have used air belt sander system to remove spot welds and it works great, especially on thin metal korean cars...

    It is good for some awkard spots, and it chews tru top metal fastmm..

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,107

    Default You're Using too coarse of a belt

    Now I know what I'm about to say is counter-intuitive because what you're thinking is that the coarser the belt the faster the material removal so 36 grit should be the bomb, but, the reason you're blowing through belts is that you're knocking off the abrasive grain from the belt and the reason you're doing that is that the grain isn't fastened well enough to the belt as the grain to too big to sink into the glue that's suppose to hold it on to the belt. THIS IS TRUE FOR ALL air file belts not just 3M's. Norton's are just as bad. Believe it or not you will BLOW THROUGH spot welds with a 60-80 grit belt far faster than you will with the 36 grit and the 60 and 80 grit belts abrasives stay on the belt and don't blow off as they are small enough to stick in the glue. With a zirconium or ceramic belt 80 grit belt you'll easily do 20 -30 spot welds per belt and normally many more.

    Phil, once you use one of these belt sanders for spot welds you'll throw all of your spot weld bits away. They are in fact the only way to go on the high strength boron steel used in modern cars. I have the cordless I-R 3/8" X 13 belt sander and it's a killer. Easily does 40 spot welds on one battery and the kit comes with two batteries so you'll never outrun the charger.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •