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Thread: Rust repair and coating on hidden areas

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    12

    Default Rust repair and coating on hidden areas

    Greetings,
    I am working with my 15 year old as he “restores” his jeep XJ.
    He(we) have stripped it to the unibody and are starting the metal work.
    Of course there is rust in the rockers and some in the last 20” of the unibody frame rails where the aftermarket hitch receiver was installed. There is also some mild surface rust on the inside of the rear 1/4s and inside the unibody “frame”
    The unibody frame is solid (except the last 20”), but I want to remove/treat this rust.
    I have no illusions of making this a “Rust Free” vehicle, but want to replace the compromised pieces and do our best to remove/treat/protect the rest and maybe get another 15 years out of it.
    My question will be pertaining to the rust removal, treatment and top coating of areas that are hidden/covered and NOT getting the body “finish coat”. These include the inside on the 1/4s, the side of the rockers (prior to installing the new ones), The inside of the unibody frame and basically the complete underside.
    So, I have read a ton on phosphoric acid based converting, media blasting, epoxy primers, etching primers in various autobody forums. My issue is all of the advice and methods is restrained by the fact that is has to be compatible with the top coat system that the restored vehicle will be painted with. This will not be my case as all my rusted /repair areas are not on exterior body surfaces. The tools at my disposal are a heated shop, 40# media blaster, decent compressor, 2 migs, torches, brake etc.
    Approx 60% of these “hidden” rusted areas I will have access to media blast once I remove the bad metal, but some I will not and of course things like the pinch welds are an issue.
    That said, once I had media blasted or wire brushed , I had planned to use a Phosphoric based solution to “treat” the entire area, force dry with propane heaters, prime then close up. Once an area is closed up (spot/plug weld, I would use a spray wand and prime/paint the inside cavity again and force dry with the heaters. And finally I would treat the areas with fluid film before final assembly of the interior.
    Question is, what is going to play nice with the phosphate left from the acid treatment? I do NOT plan to rinse with water. It does not have to be an automatic product, I was thinking something from the industrial industry, remember this is inside hidden cavities.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    37,694

    Default

    On the exposed areas that are treated with a rust converter we would use either epoxy primer that contains NO ACID or a couple coats of Zero Rust. On areas that are enclosed we would use either 3M Cavity Wax with wand kit or similar product.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Len,
    Thanks for the reply.
    The jeep is in a heated garage and we plan on working on/rebuilding one area at a time, so he does not get overwhelmed.
    I wanted to steer clear of a 2 part system, till we are ready to spray the exterior,, I will be media blast, Phosphoric treat, fab and weld in new, Phosphoric treat, dry, coat with "???".
    We will be brushing on what ever coating we end up using. I don't want him having to suit up each time we (or he) does some work, so it will be a 1 part, brush on coating.

    Does the zero rust play nice with "UNWASHED" phosphoric treated steel??
    Does the zero rust need to be top coated? What top coats is it compatible with?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    37,694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slackdaddy View Post
    Len,
    Thanks for the reply.
    The jeep is in a heated garage and we plan on working on/rebuilding one area at a time, so he does not get overwhelmed.
    I wanted to steer clear of a 2 part system, till we are ready to spray the exterior,, I will be media blast, Phosphoric treat, fab and weld in new, Phosphoric treat, dry, coat with "???".
    We will be brushing on what ever coating we end up using. I don't want him having to suit up each time we (or he) does some work, so it will be a 1 part, brush on coating.

    Does the zero rust play nice with "UNWASHED" phosphoric treated steel??
    Does the zero rust need to be top coated? What top coats is it compatible with?
    Yes Zero Rust works well on acid treated steel. The only time ZR needs to be top coated is when it's applied to an area that is exposed to the sun's UV light, it tends to fade then oxidize after a year or two in the sun. I've painted the underside of many cars and truck with it and it looks like new years later. ZR also works well on the inside of the passenger compartment like floors that are covered with carpet and inside doors, fenders and quarters, just be sure that all the rust is removed or treated prior to the ZR application. When a couple of coats of ZR are going to be applied be sure to allow the paint to dull/dry a little between coats.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    375

    Default

    the zero rust is awesome paint. i use it in all my resto projects. floors, trunk, undersides, works great. i keep the quart cans and the spray cans on hand at all times. remember, the aerosol spray is just the same as the quart/gallon, just thinned for the spray can use.
    b marler

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    8,596

    Default Agree...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    the zero rust is awesome paint. i use it in all my resto projects. floors, trunk, undersides, works great. i keep the quart cans and the spray cans on hand at all times. remember, the aerosol spray is just the same as the quart/gallon, just thinned for the spray can use.
    Zero Rust is a great product. I just used it on by snow plow frame this past early fall. All the factory paint finally let go and peeled to allow rust. Sanded and Zero'd. Looks really great. Just do more light coats.

    So good, in fact, it has been adopted into interstate hi-ways for use on Rust Repair on Bridges. Now, that's saying something of a product.

    Henry

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