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Thread: reducer for spot repair

  1. #1
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    Default reducer for spot repair

    well i did the stupid thing and sanded too far trying to remove a defect. not all the way through, but really close. its ppg concept single stage. do you guys use any special reducer for spot repairs/blending or will plain old slow reducer work?
    i've never done any blending before, but i do have a detail gun, and i don't think it'll be too tough, just a pain in the rear.
    b marler

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    well i did the stupid thing and sanded too far trying to remove a defect. not all the way through, but really close. its ppg concept single stage. do you guys use any special reducer for spot repairs/blending or will plain old slow reducer work?
    i've never done any blending before, but i do have a detail gun, and i don't think it'll be too tough, just a pain in the rear.
    The slow reducer will work as long as you allow enough time coats for the paint to flash/dry a little. I would normally use a medium reducer because I'm too impatient to wait for slow reducer to flash off.

  3. #3
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    Default

    so just standard reducer? not a special blending solvent like dx840?
    b marler

  4. #4
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    Default Hmmm...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    so just standard reducer? not a special blending solvent like dx840?
    Always check the data sheet for products you're using. I never used what you have so can't say from experience with it.

    I use medium reducer year round and do live in a cold winter climate. I just adjust project and shop temps to be acceptable. What panel are you doing and is it solid or metallic paint (just curious)? Good luck bud.

    Henry

  5. #5
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    Default

    It's a solid color, dark maroon. Kind of a tough place, lots of round stuff. Right by the drivers side headlight. I'll post a picture for you later when I have my computer on.
    My paint area is not the warmest right now either, I may need to wait for better weather.
    b marler

  6. #6
    PainterDave Guest

    Default

    use blending solvent, they contain resins to help with the blending. regular reducer will look fish eyed and move on the panel.

    eventually the edge will give away but the blending solvent will help give it some life and make it easier to polish the edge due to the resin it contains

  7. #7
    PainterDave Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    so just standard reducer? not a special blending solvent like dx840?


    yes dx840. this is bad advice using regular reducer.

  8. #8
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    Default

    You need to post photos, if it's tiny and a solid color you may want to brush touch it, then cut and buff. If it's too big for that you may want to shoot the whole fender if you have the exact paint it was shot in. That blend, hopefully there is a body line or something you can back tape and not have to "blend" at all, post some photos.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  9. #9
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    i'd love to brush touch it but it may be too big. maybe you can advise. it's a pretty complicated area, lots of curves. look right behind the headlight, you'll see the thin spot. the second picture is just to give some additional reference. i'm doing a pass with p1200 here, and like i say, i got careless trying to get a defect out and, well, you see the result.
    IMAG1417-20180109-182922295.jpgIMAG0830.jpg
    b marler

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