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Thread: Blocking primer

  1. #1
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    Default Blocking primer

    I am looking for a quicker primer blocking method. Are used to do my final blocking with 400 dry sometimes wet other times depending on my mood. I'm wanting to change to A procedure similar to the following: Dry block with 320 and follow up with possibly 400 dry and then orbital sander dry with 800. I'm wondering if I can dry block with 320 and skip 400 and go straight to 800 on the orbital sander. Would that be too big of a jump in grit?

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dryspray View Post
    I am looking for a quicker primer blocking method. Are used to do my final blocking with 400 dry sometimes wet other times depending on my mood. I'm wanting to change to A procedure similar to the following: Dry block with 320 and follow up with possibly 400 dry and then orbital sander dry with 800. I'm wondering if I can dry block with 320 and skip 400 and go straight to 800 on the orbital sander. Would that be too big of a jump in grit?
    I find that dry sanding primer tends to clog the paper too quickly so I almost always wet sand prior to applying color. I normally wet sand with either 400 or 600 depending on the type of paint I'm using and the color.

    Sanding with an orbital sand may work in some circumstances but it's difficult or impossible to get a perfectly flat finish sanding your primer with a machine. I've been doing this for a long time and my go-to method is block it wet.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I find that dry sanding primer tends to clog the paper too quickly so I almost always wet sand prior to applying color. I normally wet sand with either 400 or 600 depending on the type of paint I'm using and the color.

    Sanding with an orbital sand may work in some circumstances but it's difficult or impossible to get a perfectly flat finish sanding your primer with a machine. I've been doing this for a long time and my go-to method is block it wet.
    I prefere blocking dry mainly because I can usa a loger block. But I do agree with what you say

  4. #4
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    I've had to learn to work around a bad back all of my life so for me to reduce those bent over times yet yield good results... I always (guide coat) dry block 320 first(cuts faster imo) and then (guide coat) wet sand with 600 wet because it takes out 320 pretty fast.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris L View Post
    I've had to learn to work around a bad back all of my life so for me to reduce those bent over times yet yield good results... I always (guide coat) dry block 320 first(cuts faster imo) and then (guide coat) wet sand with 600 wet because it takes out 320 pretty fast.
    We just purchased a scissor lift to help save our knees and backs.


  6. #6
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    Jul 2016
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    you should be blocking 320 then follow with a 3/16 orbital 500 with a soft interface pad. very quick. never finish with a block

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    you should be blocking 320 then follow with a 3/16 orbital 500 with a soft interface pad. very quick. never finish with a block
    Why not?..what's the advantage of orbital?

  8. #8
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    Default

    Leaves block marks and the long straight sand scratches tend to show up more often than not.

  9. #9
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    Dec 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainterDave View Post
    you should be blocking 320 then follow with a 3/16 orbital 500 with a soft interface pad. very quick. never finish with a block
    So you're using 3/16 vs a finer throw? I would have thought a finer throw. Might have to try this. Any concern using 500 under metallics?
    Avid collector of rust!

  10. #10
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    Jul 2016
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    Use 800 under metallics and a coat of DBC500 wouldn't be a bad idea before basing

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