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Thread: ?s about buffing a car.

  1. #1
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    Default ?s about buffing a car.

    Just pick up a 2002 Toyota Solara, and the paint looks a little dull. My question is, do I cut it with some 1200, then buff with rubbing compound, and then polishing compound?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Just pick up a 2002 Toyota Solara, and the paint looks a little dull. My question is, do I cut it with some 1200, then buff with rubbing compound, and then polishing compound?

    Thanks.
    I'd recommend that you try just buffing first, usually sanding is used to level orange peel or to remove surface imperfections. If the surface is just dull then buffing may be all that's needed. Use a superior compound like Mystic Cut and a foam pad and you can probably get away without use anything else.


  3. #3
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    Default No sanding!

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Just pick up a 2002 Toyota Solara, and the paint looks a little dull. My question is, do I cut it with some 1200, then buff with rubbing compound, and then polishing compound?

    Thanks.
    Not enough clear on that car to sand. And, if you sand through, you'll have a real mess.

    Do as Len said and maybe, you need a clay bar first. You can check out our resident expert detail man below sanding and buffing OEM paint. Again, I suggest you not try this:

    http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.shtml

    I have washed raggy looking paint with Blech-wite (on a dry surface) to bring a color back then buffed. Result was paint that looked just like new.

    Henry

  4. #4
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    Ive colorsanded plenty of oem paint but wouldnt use anything that course go with 2k grit wet then wool pad on a rotory then black fiam pad on a rotory to jewl it then apply your protection of choice id go with a polymer.. But then again id also use the same black pad and compound on a flex 3401 or makita 6040 before protection is applied..

  5. #5
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    Default But newer...

    Quote Originally Posted by style View Post
    Ive colorsanded plenty of oem paint but wouldnt use anything that course go with 2k grit wet then wool pad on a rotory then black fiam pad on a rotory to jewl it then apply your protection of choice id go with a polymer.. But then again id also use the same black pad and compound on a flex 3401 or makita 6040 before protection is applied..
    I would guess what you've done was on newer cars. His is 2002. That's a long time for/if OEM paint to be exposed to the elements.

    Besides, you get away with all kinds of shit.

    Henry

  6. #6
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    I did part of the hood and drivers fender, looks better, but I still see some fine scratches. What will take this out, buff more, or will wax do the trick?

    Thanks.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    I did part of the hood and drivers fender, looks better, but I still see some fine scratches. What will take this out, buff more, or will wax do the trick?

    Thanks.
    If you're trying to buff out 1200 scratches you'll probably need to do more buffing. This is why we usually sand with 2500 before buffing, it's a lot easier to get a perfect finish.

  8. #8
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    I just used polish only, I'm a little afraid to wet sand.

    Thanks.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    I just used polish only, I'm a little afraid to wet sand.

    Thanks.
    Use a slow rotation and more pressure on the pad. A more aggressive polish might help but that's not as important as long as the polish is a decent quality. Go over it a couple more times but keep an eye on it in case you start to go through the paint.

  10. #10
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    Yea, I don't use a lot of pressure, fear of burning through.

    Thanks.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Yea, I don't use a lot of pressure, fear of burning through.

    Thanks.
    That's the reason for using a decent buffer like the Makita, you can slow the rotation down below 1000 RPM and apply pressure without burning through.

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