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Thread: Hi new to this forum and surface rust help?

  1. #1

    Default Hi new to this forum and surface rust help?

    Hey folks,

    Just joining this website to learn more about cars and especially a small parts project I'm doing. I have no clue what I'm doing so I am hoping to seek help. I'm looking to repaint where there is rust on my car starting with the fender above the wheel well, basically the arch. So far I have used a paint stripper drill to remove the paint and most of the rust down to bare metal. I didn't want to do it too hard because I've seen a few tiny holes through the fender. What are my next steps to finish this process off?
    Please correct me if I'm wrong
    Do I need to focus attention to the inside of fender where stripped to bare metal?
    After stripping to bare metal
    wipe down with acetone or wet liquid?
    Do I need to sand down the bare metal with any grit?
    Does body filler go on bare metal first then primer or is it primer, body filler, primer?
    When using body filler, do I need to use glaze putty after sanding down the body filler?

    Here's how I envision the rest of the project based on research

    Area with rust has been stripped to bare metal
    Sand with 80-180? grit
    Apply body filler until covered then sand with
    Repeat application and sand until smooth
    Apply putty glaze and sand with (#) grit
    Then apply primer and sand with (#) grit
    Reapply primer and sand again until smooth
    Apply base coat several times and top off with clear coat

    How does this sound? Am I on the right track?

    Also how worse of humid conditions should I not attempt this project? 50% humidity and over or 75% and over?

    I'm looking at Everest rage gold for body filler. What kind of primer, putty glaze and clear coat is best

    Any help is much appreciated and thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    lower Michigan
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    Default

    The problem with filling those rust holes with filler is it won't last at all (we're talking a couple weeks to a couple months maximum). The filler will blister from the rust underneath it and the rust will finally break through the filler. The
    ONLY way to stop those rust holes is to weld new metal there or replace the whole fender. I recommend replacing the whole fender because you could weld a patch over the existing rust holes but there are other areas of the fender that are rusty, just haven't eaten all the way through the metal yet to where you can see it. Point being you fix one spot and it will come through in other spots. Aftermarket fenders for most cars a pretty cheap. In most cases in the $40 to $80 range. For that kind of money it's not worth screwing around with a rusty fender trying to repair it.

  3. #3
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    Nov 2005
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    NOT in San Francisco bay area California
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    The problem with filling those rust holes with filler is it won't last at all (we're talking a couple weeks to a couple months maximum). The filler will blister from the rust underneath it and the rust will finally break through the filler. The
    ONLY way to stop those rust holes is to weld new metal there or replace the whole fender. I recommend replacing the whole fender because you could weld a patch over the existing rust holes but there are other areas of the fender that are rusty, just haven't eaten all the way through the metal yet to where you can see it. Point being you fix one spot and it will come through in other spots. Aftermarket fenders for most cars a pretty cheap. In most cases in the $40 to $80 range. For that kind of money it's not worth screwing around with a rusty fender trying to repair it.
    I have a feeling he is talking about a quarter panel and not a "fender". Fenders don't rust over the arch like that, at least not in California.

    Brian
    Touched by an Angel.

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm not interested in replacing the whole fender. Brian-yes I am referring to the fender front side. passenger. The tiny holes were caused by the drill. I didn't use a pick to find any weak points but I'm not really picky on how this paint job will hold out since it's a 10 year old car. I just want to know if the process if correct as I described or if there is any missing or needs to be corrected. Thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    2,068

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    Phil V gave you the answer that will result in a nice looking car. If you want to do it correctly then new metal is what is needed. If you want to do it over and over then you can keep doing it with filler every time the rust comes back. What kind of car and year is it? I just want to know why you don't want to put a new fender on. If it is an exotic or old car that doesn't have a fender on the market I would remove the fender and cut out all the rusted metal and weld in new metal and finish the back side of the repair like I would the front. If you don't weld find someone to do that part for you.

    Bob K

  6. #6

    Default

    An aftermarket fender runs $50-75 online then I have to prime and paint it and whatever else I may need. I don't have the money to spend for all this. Luckily I have all the equipment on had for the project. I'll just need the paint and primer with body filler

  7. #7

    Default

    Thinking about it now, is it cheaper and easier to buy the aftermarket fender for $60 and then what do I need? Just paint and clear coat?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    14,818

    Default If you can...

    Quote Originally Posted by bjcballa22 View Post
    Thinking about it now, is it cheaper and easier to buy the aftermarket fender for $60 and then what do I need? Just paint and clear coat?
    Please tell us what kind of vehicle we're talking about? Would be nice if you can post a picture of your damage. By seeing your damage gives an understanding of what caused to damage to begin with. If kept clean on the back side, front fenders should not rust out. It's the debris that sits on the inside that collects water and moisture that never gets to dry out. This acts like a constant wet sponge on the inside causing a hole. No sense fixing something unless you fix the ROOT CAUSE of the problem as well. Know what I mean?

    Welcome to the site!!

    henry

  9. #9

    Default

    These are the pictures
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
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    Holy crap! What state are you in ? That rust is bad even by Michigan standards. You're going to end up painting most of the existing fender by the time you're done so an aftermarket fender is the way to go and the rust won't return (for at least a couple three years).

    That looks like a Ford Focus fender.

  11. #11

    Default

    Lol you got that right and I'm in CT. Never under washed my car especially the winter we had and all of the salt is probably the cause. I'm looking at new fenders but what do I do as far as completing it?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjcballa22 View Post
    Lol you got that right and I'm in CT. Never under washed my car especially the winter we had and all of the salt is probably the cause. I'm looking at new fenders but what do I do as far as completing it?
    Scuff the new fender then paint around the edges, install it on the car and paint it.

  13. #13
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    Default Great guess...

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    Holy crap! What state are you in ? That rust is bad even by Michigan standards. You're going to end up painting most of the existing fender by the time you're done so an aftermarket fender is the way to go and the rust won't return (for at least a couple three years).

    That looks like a Ford Focus fender.
    Phil, I think you hit that one on the money. I've changed tons of those things and I knew I knew the body line from his pics. Just couldn't place it. He never did say, buy I bet you a coffee and donut you are right. Ford Focus!

  14. #14
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    Default Where...

    Quote Originally Posted by bjcballa22 View Post
    Lol you got that right and I'm in CT. Never under washed my car especially the winter we had and all of the salt is probably the cause. I'm looking at new fenders but what do I do as far as completing it?
    Where do you live in CT? I'm in central CT.

    Like pulling teeth with you, what kind of car, year and make? Phil said Focus and I 100% agree with him.

    That fender should be around +/- $40 through Keystone. If you know any bodyshops, they could order it/them for you.

    That's a strange array of rust (with holes) on that fender. I always hated those cars with a passion. They came out in 2000 and had so many recalls that NHTSA was considering have FORD recall every one on the road. In the first year, they had 38 problems with 18 recalls in 3-4 months. Engine cradles were falling out while you drove.

    I was working with my cousin who had a business and shop. He bought and sold and had a buy here, pay here in Wallingford, CT. I BEGGED him, whatever you do, PLEASE don't buy and Focus. Well, finally he did. The bodies are strangely put together. Many oddities. Screws and bolts of all sorts not really common to what you see on conventional cars of the time.

    Anyway, sorry, I was not referring to you or your car. Just, I had a bad flashback of my involvement with the breed.

    Do as Len said on how to paint them. Unless, you're after perfection, get your paint matched from a piece of you car. Like take one fender in to your local paint shop and they can camera the color. You can scuff and paint the fender(s) and then mount them. If you want to be fussy, scuff and paint all the edges and assemble on the car. then blend the paint into the doors, whatever.

    Henry

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjcballa22 View Post
    Lol you got that right and I'm in CT. Never under washed my car especially the winter we had and all of the salt is probably the cause. I'm looking at new fenders but what do I do as far as completing it?
    Do as Len suggested in cutting in the edges and mounting the fender(s) on the car. Sand the black factory primer on the new fenders with 600 grit wet or dry by hand or by DA. If you don't cut through the E-coat then you can spray your color basecoat directly over the properly sanded E-coat. Obviously followed by clear coat. I personally spray a coat of epoxy primer on the outer surfaces of like that fender before I color coat the surface. A matter of personal preferences, either method works. If you opt for a coat of epoxy primer over the scuffed E-coat then you need to spray your color coat/clearcoat
    with the recoat window of the epoxy primer ( usually 1 day to 4 days depending on the brand of epoxy primer).

    I just read this message after posting it and I can see where it may be confusing to someone who hasn't done this stuff before. If you need more clarification then feel free to ask away.

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