clearcoat disaster, quickest way to sand
Well this was my first paint job and it was looking great until I put the clear coat down. I used single stage Nason underneath (not my first choice, but my jobber convinced me it'd do good) and I didn't let it flash enough apparently and this is what resulted:
It went from this yesterday:
to this today:
So I need to sand everything down and get it flat again to reshoot base - whats the quickest way to accomplish this? Like what grit should I start at, and is there an interface pad or something that would allow me to use a power tool instead of using a 6" rubber block for the whole thing?
How long did you let it flash and what was the temperature?It looks like reaction!Like somebody sprayed silicone around!SILICONE is a painters worst enemy!
Wow, that really sucks! Looks more like a reaction to something other than the BC/CC. Not sure what you would have to do, Might have to strip it down to metal again.
It looks like contamination to me. Maybe it was something sprayed in the room out of an aerosol before you sprayed your paint or maybe it is something coming out with the compressor air. As much as I would hate to do it myself I'd have to say that I would probably remove it and start over.
Doug. The problem was that you applied 2K clearcoat over 2k single stage & interupted the cure cycle. You probably waited too long to clearcoat and or had incompatible color-clear combinations. I'd advise to either use single stage (not cleared) or basecoat/clearcoat. This is NOT a contamination/air line problem. Unfortunately, the only solution is to aggressively sand (80-120 grit) down to base color, step up to 400 DA & re-color. Sounds like your jobber gave you poor information. Good Luck.
Im with Len, that looks like fish-eye to me.
What was the single-stage Nason you put on first? Acrylic enamel or was it a urethane? Did the first coat of color lay down smooth or did it immediately distort?
It's says its a urethane, but on other forums I've heard that Nason Ful-thane is just a converted enamel.
It laid down nice the first two coats. I had a couple runs and I fixxed those and resprayed. I had to mist the car to get the metallic to match in those areas with the areas that had been sprayed the night before.
One thing I noticed, when I first sprayed it, that it took close to 4 hrs before it set up and wasn't tacky. Tech sheet says 60-80 minutes. Maybe bad hardener ? And when I sprayed the POLYurethane clear over it, they had a bad reaction, causing the uncured paint to lift and start running down? Probably wouldn't have happened if I let it set all day and then sprayed the clear that night.
I didn't even want a single stage. I think I am going to junk the rest of this paint and get a true basecoat just to make sure.
So do I D/A it with 80 grit all the way down with primer, then 220, spray 2k high build, block it with 400, then 600, reshoot base and clear??
Wow...what a mess. This really discourages me but I'm already in way too deep ($$!!) to call it quits.
It looks like your single stage urethane was'nt fully cured to me before the clear was applied and it had a reaction with the single stage paint. (It looks like one of those converted enamel paint reactions to me)
About all you can do is strip the car down to the 2k primer and start over with more 2k urethane to level things out then a good urethane basecoat like PPG DBC etc. then re-clear.
I have had a few jobs that turned out like that and it sucks and is a real mess because now you have to make a mess again and clean it up and re-mask to re-paint. You will never forget the products you used and will probably never use them again, but I guess that is how we learn to not make the same mistake again........best of luck with your project.