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Thread: sealer

  1. #1
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    Default sealer

    Quick question (I think). I ran out of epoxy primer the other day. My plan was to save some of this and reduce it to use as a sealer as the last step. I have plenty of 2k Urethane primer left. Is it ok to reduce that. maybe 4:1:1 or so? Or should I go by some more epoxy or dedicated sealer? Maybe I sholuld mention that the primer I had on there now is black 2k urethane, and the BC is black also. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mike111 View Post
    Quick question (I think). I ran out of epoxy primer the other day. My plan was to save some of this and reduce it to use as a sealer as the last step. I have plenty of 2k Urethane primer left. Is it ok to reduce that. maybe 4:1:1 or so? Or should I go by some more epoxy or dedicated sealer? Maybe I sholuld mention that the primer I had on there now is black 2k urethane, and the BC is black also. Thanks
    I would probably guide coat and block sand the 2K with some 400 or 600 wet sandpaper then paint it.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Len. I did that and it worked real good. I think your idea was better for me than using a sealer. I seem to have more dust in my garage today. It would have given the dust one more chance to get on it with the sealer. Which brings up my next problem....dust....
    I painted (BC AND CC) A couple of the take off parts today. Looks pretty good other than the dust. I did the best I could...even tacked it off seconds before I painted each piece. The parts were really static charged for some reason. Maybe that made it worse. some little hairs or something like hair is on all of it. It probably isnt hair, and doesnt look like hair really. I dont even have hair. But I think some of it is in the base, and some might be in the first coat of clear. I will see what happens when I sand and buff. But thinking I may end up having to scuff and re-shoot the clear. So I heard that clear will only stick to 600, and anything finer it will run. Not sure where I heard that, or if it is true? Also if the papers say to use 1.3 tip...but all I have is 1.2 and 1.4, which should I use? I choose the 1.2 for these first parts I sprayed.
    Last edited by mike111; 08-18-2013 at 07:23 AM.

  4. #4
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    Default Just maybe...

    Quote Originally Posted by mike111 View Post
    Thanks Len. I did that and it worked real good. I think your idea was better for me than using a sealer. I seem to have more dust in my garage today. It would have given the dust one more chance to get on it with the sealer. Which brings up my next problem....dust....
    I painted (BC AND CC) A couple of the take off parts today. Looks pretty good other than the dust. I did the best I could...even tacked it off seconds before I painted each piece. The parts were really static charged for some reason. Maybe that made it worse. some little hairs or something like hair is on all of it. It probably isnt hair, and doesnt look like hair really. I dont even have hair. But I think some of it is in the base, and some might be in the first coat of clear. I will see what happens when I sand and buff. But thinking I may end up having to scuff and re-shoot the clear. So I heard that clear will only stick to 600, and anything finer it will run. Not sure where I heard that, or if it is true? Also if the papers say to use 1.3 tip...but all I have is 1.2 and 1.4, which should I use? I choose the 1.2 for these first parts I sprayed.
    You had too much plastic in the area causing the static charge. On the tip, given your choices I would have picked the 1.4. As for the parts growing hair, I think it was your clear going both on the surface and drying before the surface a little.

    "So I heard that clear will only stick to 600": Long time saying was 'never believe what you hear and only half of what you see'. Two types of shooting clear are over Base, and the other is reclearing clear. You will NEVER shoot clear over base smoother than 600 (or 400) because you need the bite of that grit to hold the Base. You're not even shooting clear in this situation over a true 400 or 600 because now you have to take into account how smooth the base came out and you can't sand the base so it is what it is.
    Flow coating is different whereby you sand clear and recoat it with more clear. Years ago on this site flow coating was talked about a lot more than now. It was accepted in those pissing contests that you could shoot more clear to flow coat over 1000 scratch. What were you thinking of when you said finer than 600?

    Henry

  5. #5
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    Default

    Hi Henry. I don't know what flow coating is and think I probably don't want to know. I guess I will go with the 600 and re-coat the clear if it doesnt sand/buff out. I'll know more later when it dries a little to sand/buff monday.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mike111 View Post
    Hi Henry. I don't know what flow coating is and think I probably don't want to know. I guess I will go with the 600 and re-coat the clear if it doesnt sand/buff out. I'll know more later when it dries a little to sand/buff monday.
    If you're using a "high quality" clear it will hold on to very fine scratches like 1200 and 1500.

  7. #7
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    Default Consider this...

    Quote Originally Posted by mike111 View Post
    Hi Henry. I don't know what flow coating is and think I probably don't want to know. I guess I will go with the 600 and re-coat the clear if it doesnt sand/buff out. I'll know more later when it dries a little to sand/buff monday.
    I never got involved with Flow Coating clear as with 3 coats of good clear, when I had to colorsand the finish product came out perfect enough.

    On this site I learned that others would bc/cc a project and consider the initial coating of CLEAR a base from which to start. What many did was do a complete bc/cc job with the intention of sanding the clear with 1000 grit and to reclear calling it a flow coat in an effort to achieve maximum gloss.

    Seems like a duplication of effort in that they most likely had to sand/buff this new coat of clear. I say use a good clear and put on 3 coats. If you have to colorsand you have enough clear on the car to do so.

    I'm glad Len chimed in stating what grits clear could be recoated (with quality clear).

    Henry

    ps: what are you woking on anyway?

  8. #8
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    Default

    Thanks Henry. This one is a silverado 2500. So far it's coming out great. Better than my first paint job (which I still havnt finished fixing). Easier the second time I'd say. I'll post pics in a week or more...to show you how it came out.

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