TheCoatingStore.com

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Very soft dent, looking for insight?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default Very soft dent, looking for insight?

    I painted the 67 VW bus for a friend about three weeks ago. Somehow I missed two very soft dents that are the result of the gas filler brackets that weld to the quarter and one where the inner fender welds to the quarter. They are probably fist size and are factory low spots. I just notice them. I was wandering if I should just shoot filler primer over them and then block. It may take 4-5 coats to get them to go away, but I was thinking it may be better than trying to use a skim coat of mud, then primer. I tried to take a picture of them, but they do not show up in the pictures.

    Any other ideas? Thanks



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default

    My other option is to just wet sand with 1000 grit and reclear over that panel and see if I can build it that way?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    My other option is to just wet sand with 1000 grit and reclear over that panel and see if I can build it that way?
    Personally I think I would spray or roll a coat of Slick Sand allow it to flash then spray or roll another coat. Be sure to extend the filler primer beyond the edges of the low area then guide coat and block sand with a block large enough to span the low spot. Block sand from the good metal so that your block is guided by the flat area around the low spot.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default

    I'm just worried about causing more issues than I already have. They are hard to notice, but they are there.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    I'm just worried about causing more issues than I already have. They are hard to notice, but they are there.
    Other issues are usually caused by using unhardened or inexpensive paint products then sanding and recoating them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Those are not issues. The paint is quality and everything is hardened. I just don't want to be able to see the repair after I shoot the color and then clear.

    I have never used slick sand, but I could order some.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    Those are not issues. The paint is quality and everything is hardened. I just don't want to be able to see the repair after I shoot the color and then clear.

    I have never used slick sand, but I could order some.
    You'll need at least a 2.0 fluid tip to spray it, a 2.2 or larger would be better. Sand the area to be sprayed with 180 or 220, spray then block sand with some 400 dry before painting. If you opt not to seal the Slick Sand then be sure to put enough paint over the spot, allow enough time for it to shrink in and harden then sand and polish.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,421

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    I painted the 67 VW bus for a friend about three weeks ago. Somehow I missed two very soft dents that are the result of the gas filler brackets that weld to the quarter and one where the inner fender welds to the quarter. They are probably fist size and are factory low spots. I just notice them. I was wandering if I should just shoot filler primer over them and then block. It may take 4-5 coats to get them to go away, but I was thinking it may be better than trying to use a skim coat of mud, then primer. I tried to take a picture of them, but they do not show up in the pictures.

    Any other ideas? Thanks


    For what its worth My 67 Bus is the same color and I also thought my body work was good on the same side by the gas door but after the fact I can pick out some imperfections I wish I had spent more time on that area . Is it just me or what? But working in that small area with the louvers and the small amount of panel space doesn't make it easy to transition . Mike

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NORTH JUAREZ
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    never worked on one but if you have decent access I would try and pdr it first and think of recoating as the last source, if there isn't much filler on it that may work out fine..

    on the other hand if you do decide to recoat it look up here on the site in the search bar recoat lift..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NOT in San Francisco bay area California
    Posts
    29,177

    Default

    Are you saying that there is a piece WELDED to that skin? If there is a bracket welded so you would see a spot weld in the quarter if you were to strip it to bare metal, I would say leave it. Any filling and you are kidding yourself, it WILL return. When, depends on how well you do it, but it WILL return. Unless his is a custom show car that you need razor straight for the shows, I would say what you have is as good or better than what the bus looked like new and leave it alone.

    Any piece of metal that touches the inside of the skin like that, be it a door, hood or what ever, it is GOING to show no matter what you do if the car is driven at all. The different pieces moving around are going to change that outer surface, sure as poop stinks. This is if you had some "anti flutter" foam between an inner structure like on a hood, or along an intrusion beam on a late model car, what ever it is, it WILL show with normal use at some point. So even if it isn't welded, if something is touching the outer skin it WILL show up some day be damned what you do about it now. If it's welded, that point in time will simply come sooner.

    Brian

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    331

    Default

    I agree with Martinsr. You say those two spots are "factory"low spots which would be original to the bus. Personally, I am more impressed seeing a vehicle brought back to factory standards. Low spots, orange peel or whatever. VW Buses were never show vehicles and to make one into that would just seem wrong to me. I always leave a little orange peel on my old cars just as they came. However, my personal opinion for what it is worth.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
    Are you saying that there is a piece WELDED to that skin? If there is a bracket welded so you would see a spot weld in the quarter if you were to strip it to bare metal, I would say leave it. Any filling and you are kidding yourself, it WILL return. When, depends on how well you do it, but it WILL return. Unless his is a custom show car that you need razor straight for the shows, I would say what you have is as good or better than what the bus looked like new and leave it alone.

    Any piece of metal that touches the inside of the skin like that, be it a door, hood or what ever, it is GOING to show no matter what you do if the car is driven at all. The different pieces moving around are going to change that outer surface, sure as poop stinks. This is if you had some "anti flutter" foam between an inner structure like on a hood, or along an intrusion beam on a late model car, what ever it is, it WILL show with normal use at some point. So even if it isn't welded, if something is touching the outer skin it WILL show up some day be damned what you do about it now. If it's welded, that point in time will simply come sooner.

    Brian
    I spoke with my buddy about the low spots. I feel somewhat how you feel Brian, that I will have issues down the road. He and I have agreed to leave the spots alone. I have sanded the quarters down with 1000 grit and will be applying some more clear, but that is as far as I will go with the bus with regards as painting. Then onto the long long long process of cutting and buffing.

    Thanks for the input from everyone.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NOT in San Francisco bay area California
    Posts
    29,177

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    I spoke with my buddy about the low spots. I feel somewhat how you feel Brian, that I will have issues down the road. He and I have agreed to leave the spots alone. I have sanded the quarters down with 1000 grit and will be applying some more clear, but that is as far as I will go with the bus with regards as painting. Then onto the long long long process of cutting and buffing.

    Thanks for the input from everyone.

    I think you made a good choice.

    Brian

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kcode View Post
    I spoke with my buddy about the low spots. I feel somewhat how you feel Brian, that I will have issues down the road. He and I have agreed to leave the spots alone. I have sanded the quarters down with 1000 grit and will be applying some more clear, but that is as far as I will go with the bus with regards as painting. Then onto the long long long process of cutting and buffing.

    Thanks for the input from everyone.
    If you use a good orbital sander and some Trizact you can minimize the sanding effort. Just stay off the high spots and edges and sand the tight spots by hand.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Len, I usually do all my finish sanding by hand and I don't have a good orbital sander for finish work. I am thinking it may be a good idea for this bus. What is the current process for finish sanding with an orbital? What grit of paper? Thanks Steve

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •