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Thread: Anybody ever fix a wrecked trailer? I got one so I guess I'll learn!

  1. #1
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    Default Anybody ever fix a wrecked trailer? I got one so I guess I'll learn!

    I bought this 8x30 enclosed trailer just the way it sits. It ended up on it's side and it bent the side and roof up. I was interested in this exact trailer because it had twin 7K axles, Air conditioning, bathroom with toilet and shower, and a sink area. So when we go to antique tractor events we can haul our stuff to the show and camp in it. We typically tent camp and the lack of a shower area and a/c for sleeping is getting old.

    Anyway the inner structure of the trailer is approx 1.25" tube stock for the walls and roof bows. I can easily fix up the side wall with all new uprights. The roof will be harder as the square tube is bent to give the roof a contour. I'll have to figure out where to buy those or how to have them made or make them.

    The sides and roof skins are what I'm having the hardest time figuring out. The trailer is screwless on the exterior. so it has no external fasteners. I'm assuming they glue the side sheets to the frame work with some sort of metal bond. It's been cold and I'm still trying to get quotes to just have it fixed so I haven't ripped it apart yet.

    So has anyone ever fixed a trailer like this? Any words of wisdom? also does anyone know of a great place to source the side and roof sheeting?

    Thanks,
    Jeremy

    photo 3.jpgphoto 4.jpgphoto 1.jpg

  2. #2
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    Go to a sheet metal shop. Just tell them the size of the box, the gauge if metal, length of the beam and the height of the crown or better jet cut a chunk out and take it with you. They should be able to make you ten or twelve pieces pretty easily for the roof. While you are there get a quote for sheets for the sides. The nice thing about being the owner is you can faster them any way you like. Nothing says you need to use original construction.

    Do I see you at Rollag, MN on Labor Day when I go to see the show every year? That looks like the makings of a nice trailer. Just don’t drop it off at an RV shop and tell them to fix it. They can generate an astronomically high bill.

    Bob K

  3. #3
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    We've done several horse trailers that are similar to your trailer. We purchase the aluminum sheeting from a truck/trailer supply near us. Most of our sheets are either screwed, bolted or riveted in place but I think metal bonding adhesive would work quite well.

    Check out http://www.haletrailer.com/ I'm sure there is somewhere near you that also sells what you need.

  4. #4
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    Not me at Rollog I'm sad to say. We are typically are at the Granite Iowa show. Hope to hit a few more if camping was less miserable with the heat. Also as I play with old cars I figured I would use the trailer as a part time garage and to haul blasted parts around here and there.

    Thanks for the link Len I'll check them out. My thought was also that I could do some sort of metal bond adhesive to put he panels back on.

    BobK good idea on the local metal shop. I'll see if I can't hunt one down that could fab up some roof supports and then supply some sheeting. Seems like a simple task, but it's proving to be harder than I thought.

    I'm also talking to a factory dealer to get the parts, but the factory hasn't been real responsive as of yet. And I'm assuming factory parts will be spendy. I always like to have options on things so I can make an educated decision.

    Thanks,
    Jeremy

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by junk View Post
    Not me at Rollog I'm sad to say. We are typically are at the Granite Iowa show. Hope to hit a few more if camping was less miserable with the heat. Also as I play with old cars I figured I would use the trailer as a part time garage and to haul blasted parts around here and there.

    Thanks for the link Len I'll check them out. My thought was also that I could do some sort of metal bond adhesive to put he panels back on.

    BobK good idea on the local metal shop. I'll see if I can't hunt one down that could fab up some roof supports and then supply some sheeting. Seems like a simple task, but it's proving to be harder than I thought.

    I'm also talking to a factory dealer to get the parts, but the factory hasn't been real responsive as of yet. And I'm assuming factory parts will be spendy. I always like to have options on things so I can make an educated decision.

    Thanks,
    Jeremy
    The outfit that I linked was selling me 4X8 sheets of aluminum normally used for trailer sides for $80 each. It's been a couple of years since I bought any so the price may have gone up. These were really nice new sheets painted white on one side.

  6. #6
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    Yep I had an RV place next to my shop for years, he did those types of things all the time, very simply, you replace the damaged parts. All that reinforcement is all available by the foot and you just cut them to length and put them in how ever they were mounted, riveted, bolted, welded. You replace all the damaged parts then rivet on the sheet metal. It really is pretty easy.

    Brian

  7. #7
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    Default junk...

    You may want to build some bridging/bracing inside in the good sections of the front and rear. Can't see it well enough in the pictures but you may even want to see what you can staighten by jacking/hammering and Porta-Power. This should help in straightening areas that will get new material attached. Good luck.

    Henry

  8. #8
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    Well I started getting parts figured out on this trailer. I did a big old parts list and sent it to the dealer. My plan was to replace anything that was bent or damaged from the wreck. The manufacturer quoted me 2300 in parts. I actually didn't think that was too bad. There are a lot of parts here. I'm still looking for Sheet suppliers though as I think I can find those cheaper, but the rest of the parts I thought was very reasonable.

    I also figured out that they just used 1" wide double sided tape to hold the panels to the supports. I thought it was cheesy at first, but as we all know that double sided tape will really stick. Now the edges of the sheets get covered with trim that's screwed down.

    12 ROOF BOWS $16.50 EA
    13 SIDE SUPPORTS $9.55 EA
    30 FT 1 X 2 TUBE $61.90 EA
    6 SIDE SHEETS $104.70 EA
    4 ROOF SHEETS $125.90 EA
    ROCK GUARD $123.75
    30 X 20 WINDOW $137.90
    36” RADIUS side door $370.70
    3 TRANSITION PANELS $27.90 EA
    3” X 30 FT TRIM $69.75
    1-1/2 X 30 FT TRIM $33.00

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by junk View Post
    Well I started getting parts figured out on this trailer. I did a big old parts list and sent it to the dealer. My plan was to replace anything that was bent or damaged from the wreck. The manufacturer quoted me 2300 in parts. I actually didn't think that was too bad. There are a lot of parts here. I'm still looking for Sheet suppliers though as I think I can find those cheaper, but the rest of the parts I thought was very reasonable.

    I also figured out that they just used 1" wide double sided tape to hold the panels to the supports. I thought it was cheesy at first, but as we all know that double sided tape will really stick. Now the edges of the sheets get covered with trim that's screwed down.

    12 ROOF BOWS $16.50 EA
    13 SIDE SUPPORTS $9.55 EA
    30 FT 1 X 2 TUBE $61.90 EA
    6 SIDE SHEETS $104.70 EA
    4 ROOF SHEETS $125.90 EA
    ROCK GUARD $123.75
    30 X 20 WINDOW $137.90
    36” RADIUS side door $370.70
    3 TRANSITION PANELS $27.90 EA
    3” X 30 FT TRIM $69.75
    1-1/2 X 30 FT TRIM $33.00
    Like I said earlier, I was a part of this stuff for a number of years. Not doing it myself understand but helping and seeing it done day in and day out, and replacing all the damaged stuff is the right way to go and it makes it so easy it's crazy. These rigs weren't built by rocket scientists they are pretty damn easy to do if you don't try to over think it. Remove damaged part, replace with new, done deal.

    Brian

  10. #10
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    Oct 2011
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    Try any local race car supply shop for the sheet metal. I've found they are usually cheaper than other vendors, ask some local racer where they get theirs, racers are always looking for the good deals.


    Quote Originally Posted by junk View Post
    Well I started getting parts figured out on this trailer. I did a big old parts list and sent it to the dealer. My plan was to replace anything that was bent or damaged from the wreck. The manufacturer quoted me 2300 in parts. I actually didn't think that was too bad. There are a lot of parts here. I'm still looking for Sheet suppliers though as I think I can find those cheaper, but the rest of the parts I thought was very reasonable.

    I also figured out that they just used 1" wide double sided tape to hold the panels to the supports. I thought it was cheesy at first, but as we all know that double sided tape will really stick. Now the edges of the sheets get covered with trim that's screwed down.

    12 ROOF BOWS $16.50 EA
    13 SIDE SUPPORTS $9.55 EA
    30 FT 1 X 2 TUBE $61.90 EA
    6 SIDE SHEETS $104.70 EA
    4 ROOF SHEETS $125.90 EA
    ROCK GUARD $123.75
    30 X 20 WINDOW $137.90
    36” RADIUS side door $370.70
    3 TRANSITION PANELS $27.90 EA
    3” X 30 FT TRIM $69.75
    1-1/2 X 30 FT TRIM $33.00

  11. #11
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    Yeah these trailers are definitely not as sturdy as I thought they might be. The structure is pretty simple and the metal frame is pretty thin material. It's going to be a fair amount of labor, but it doesn't look like it will be too hard.

    Good idea on the race car tin for the sides. I'll have to check that out. Most of the stuff I'm finding is 48" wide, but I need 50" wide as that's what's on the trailer.

  12. #12
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    Well the trailer is mostly fixed now. I still need a couple windows that are on order and a trim piece that I mis ordered the 1st time. I kept track and there is about 65 hours of labor in this trailer.

    Here's the link to all the photos.






    I added a second window on the side since we plan to use it as a camper also. Wanted it a little brighter. I don't have the window hole cut yet as the window is back ordered. The current window on the damaged side is damaged, but still fills the hole OK for now.
    Avid collector of rust!

  13. #13
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    And here is the inside after it's fixed. We've already used it for an old tractor show and it worked great. We got a Ford 8n, 1970's Montgomery ward lawn tractor, a homemade go-kart tractor and a trailer inside the big trailer. Everything fit perfect. And the A/c for sleeping at night was wonderful.

    As you can see we still need to paint the new side panels. We also need to redo the floor as the 12" peal and stick floor tiles are coming off really bad.

    Avid collector of rust!

  14. #14
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    Nice work Junk! Where did you get all the trim pieces for your project? Do you still have & use your trailer?

    I am currently rebuilding a 20' car hauler that was tossed in a bad storm a few weeks back. I am finished with the structural work. But I have no idea where I am going to find the aluminum strips at the roof line & the roof panels themselves. the aluminum panels are available at a local steel supply house for $89 each. Thats about all I have sourced so far.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68ragtop View Post
    Nice work Junk! Where did you get all the trim pieces for your project? Do you still have & use your trailer?

    I am currently rebuilding a 20' car hauler that was tossed in a bad storm a few weeks back. I am finished with the structural work. But I have no idea where I am going to find the aluminum strips at the roof line & the roof panels themselves. the aluminum panels are available at a local steel supply house for $89 each. Thats about all I have sourced so far.
    I ended up sourcing all the skins and trim pieces from the trailer manufacturer through their local dealer. It was super easy. When I did price the aluminum skins through a steel shop the trailer manufacturer was similarly priced.

    We still own and use the trailer. We use it for antique tractor shows and camping out of it. I put e-track on the walls and have bunks for my kids across the back. It's simple and kind of rough, but works well for our uses.

    Jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

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