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Thread: spi euro clear

  1. #1

    Default spi euro clear

    who has used this clear?what were your likes and dislikes?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Louisville,KY.
    Posts
    886

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Shop View Post
    who has used this clear?what were your likes and dislikes?
    I started using that one last year, I like it a lot.
    I use to use the Universal, which I also like, but the Euro
    is a harder clear and costs less. It seems thicker to me and I
    have to reduce it about 20% to get the right flow for the way I paint.
    All in all, for the money, I'll stick with it. Very nice.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JCCLARK View Post
    I started using that one last year, I like it a lot.
    I use to use the Universal, which I also like, but the Euro
    is a harder clear and costs less. It seems thicker to me and I
    have to reduce it about 20% to get the right flow for the way I paint.
    All in all, for the money, I'll stick with it. Very nice.
    thanks man...happy newyear.....

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Shop View Post
    thanks man...happy newyear.....
    also which reducer are you using to reduce the euro?

  5. #5
    satarules Guest

    Default good stuff

    i mix it 4:1:1.5 using spi med.reducer.for the money i've found nothung better.i prefer the slow activator as it gives me a better buffing window.but you can cocktail this clear to do anything.personal vehicles/restoration work stick with the universal.but the euro cannot be beat for everyday stuff.esp. for the money.barrys got several activators for the euro for doing spot work to completes.someone compared the euro using fastest clear against shrink&wrinkle(sherwin williams),and price per gallon(ppg) air dry clears and the euro was almost as fast but with ALOT more mil. build.GOOD STUFF.sata out

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by satarules View Post
    i mix it 4:1:1.5 using spi med.reducer.for the money i've found nothung better.i prefer the slow activator as it gives me a better buffing window.but you can cocktail this clear to do anything.personal vehicles/restoration work stick with the universal.but the euro cannot be beat for everyday stuff.esp. for the money.barrys got several activators for the euro for doing spot work to completes.someone compared the euro using fastest clear against shrink&wrinkle(sherwin williams),and price per gallon(ppg) air dry clears and the euro was almost as fast but with ALOT more mil. build.GOOD STUFF.sata out
    why universal over euro on personal/resto work?im looking for a reason to justify purchasing spi...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by satarules View Post
    i mix it 4:1:1.5 using spi med.reducer.for the money i've found nothung better.i prefer the slow activator as it gives me a better buffing window.but you can cocktail this clear to do anything.personal vehicles/restoration work stick with the universal.but the euro cannot be beat for everyday stuff.esp. for the money.barrys got several activators for the euro for doing spot work to completes.someone compared the euro using fastest clear against shrink&wrinkle(sherwin williams),and price per gallon(ppg) air dry clears and the euro was almost as fast but with ALOT more mil. build.GOOD STUFF.sata out
    I was checking out their website and noticed an idea they had.....they suggested using the epoxy primer, 2k ureth, and then coming back to use the Epoxy as the sealer (with the option to wetsand 400 prior to BC) So I would not need to order sealer in this case. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
    Thanks
    Mike

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Louisville,KY.
    Posts
    886

    Default

    I mostly use the slowest activator and the slowest reducer.
    I usually don't paint once it's real cold out so that's pretty much it.
    I'll use a faster one if it's a small part.
    I have to wait longer for flash times but I can get a smoother finish that way.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    27,766

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mike111 View Post
    I was checking out their website and noticed an idea they had.....they suggested using the epoxy primer, 2k ureth, and then coming back to use the Epoxy as the sealer (with the option to wetsand 400 prior to BC) So I would not need to order sealer in this case. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
    Thanks
    Mike
    Epoxy primer works as a sealer if it's over-reduced but it's not as good as a "good" dedicated sealer because it doesn't have create as good a seal and the paint has a tendency to sink into the primer more than it does when a sealer is used.

  10. #10
    satarules Guest

    Default spi epoxy as sealer

    mix your epoxy 1:1 reduce 10% let induce 30 minutes spray away.covers 320 at 10%.call barry he'll talk ya all the way thru it,the pros and cons of the epoxy many pros very few cons.mainly flash time.he also sells a urethane sealer that mixes 4:1:1,and the great thing about this sealer is it doubles as a primer mixed 4:1.great primer as she winds up real tight and little risk of shrinkage(swelling)whatever you wanna call it.

  11. #11
    satarules Guest

    Default what kind of work are ya doin


    gimme some details about what your doin,one off resto,production work,in a garage or a booth.many variables.anything ya need to know i'll try to answer and jc is very knowledgable,and hes got lots of high tech advice to(heating blankets)great stuff for us garage warriors.peace sata out

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