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Thread: 89 F-350 Frame off resto

  1. #31
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    Dec 2011
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    873

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    photo 1-2.jpg
    Sorry for the cruddy picture.

    Saturday I put the windshield in and loaded the headlights and grill in. I put in all aftermarket lights and chrome pieces. The plastic mounting piece was ford. Everything seemed to fit OK. It's really starting to look like a truck again. All glass is in accept for the rear window and it's being left out until the headliner is reinstalled.

    This week I'm going to test fit the rear bumper while the trucks in the shop. Of course I went with a heavy duty rear bumper similar to the front so it's not just a bolt on affair. Then the trucks going to get parked in my garage until I get the bed painted. I hope to have the bed in color by the end of this weekend. Mounted soon after. The next big step in painting would be the two-tone i'm putting on the bottom. If I was to paint this truck again i would have done it different I think. It's turning out good, but I think I made more work for my self by painting it in so many chunks.

    Thanks
    Jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

  2. #32
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    Nov 2005
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    In many cases it's best to assemble the vehicle and paint the stripe on first because it's easier to mask off the stripe than it is to mask off the entire truck while you paint the stripe.

  3. #33
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    Dec 2011
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    Len - took me a minute, but I got what your saying. Yeah had I to paint this truck again i would have jambed all the doors, fenders, and probably box. Then hung everything. Then probably shoot the lower stripe then shoot the main body color on the sides. As it is I painted everything loose and assembled it. It's not gone poorly, but on the next car I'm planning to jamb it first then mask all the jambs and shoot the outside.

    One thing that throws me off on a pickup is I typically like to paint the box loose. So my original thinking was to wait to add the lower stripe until the box was mounted. That way I'll get the stripe consistent down the whole side of the truck.

    Thanks,
    Jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

  4. #34
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    Dec 2011
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    I've made a little progress recently. I U-pol Raptor lined the bumpers and running boards for this truck. I'd never shot raptor before, but it seemed to go OK. I did one heavy coat then a second lighter coat to make the surface finish more consistent. I like the gritty appearance I ended up with. I shot it at around 70PSI. Didn't seem to make much difference to me between 40-70 psi. I used the tintable bed liner. The color is an Arizona Beige. It doesn't look very beigy to me, but seems correct when I was checking other arizona beige trucks on the internet. They seem to look slightly silver or slightly beige depending on the lighting.


    bumper1.jpgbumper3.jpgBumper2.jpg
    Avid collector of rust!

  5. #35
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    Nov 2005
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    Is that rough coating that color all the way through or just on top. It looks great.

  6. #36
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    Dec 2011
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    Thanks Len. The color is the whole way through. I mixed base coat in with the bedliner before I shot it. I liked this because it was a 2 part DIY bed liner. I ordered the tintable version which is white before you mix in the color. I plan to do the inside of my bed with this also.

    Thanks
    Jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

  7. #37
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    Dec 2011
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    Here's a couple pictures of the bumpers and running boards mounted on the truck. Long way to go, but it's getting there. Trucks filthy from sitting.

    truck2.jpgtruck1.jpg
    Avid collector of rust!

  8. #38
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    Dec 2011
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    Ok, question for the group. These bumpers really bug me. They don't seem to be very beige to me. The color is supposed to be Arizona beige. The vehicle I'm pulling the colors off of looks more beige than these. Where I'm at is I'm debating on getting a new quart of Arizona beige mixed up in a different brand and maybe better line of paint to see if the color is more beige. I need to paint the bottom color on the truck, but I'm not gonna until I decide if I'm comfortable with the color I have. I'm not sure what to do.

    Although i just posted these pictures and they look closer than I thought.

    truck1.jpg
    3527561_55b6bdd2-f7fd-4a73-a341-4b3ae0566059.jpg
    Avid collector of rust!

  9. #39
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    Nov 2005
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    I would go to my paint supplier and look through their paint chips until I found a color I liked and have them mix it for me. You can't go by the color name.

  10. #40
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    Dec 2011
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    Len - That's basically what I did. I found the truck in the bottom picture and am copying the colors off it. I pulled the color off the trucks sticker showing the codes. The lower color just doesn't seem to match. I'm planning to take my sprayout card into the paint store and check it against their book.

    I still may end up picking a different color. We will see.
    Avid collector of rust!

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    Thumbs up Status?

    I found this thread while looking for info on restoring my '96 F-250 Supercab Powerstroke 4x4 and enjoyed it immensely! I'm in the beginning stages and I hope that you keep posting, I could learn a lot from your experience.. How's it going??

    Are you doing your own powdercoating? I had my trucks grillguard done and it wasn't cheap. I don't have an oven tho.. I got the wiper arms done in gloss black and they turned out gorgeous!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #42
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    Dec 2011
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    I stalled out this spring. I've been working on other projects for myself and projects for other people. And now it won't start. I'm thinking it's out of fuel.

    I also have a 93 F-250 regular cab I use as a plow truck. If you got any questions let me know. Although I haven't been around a power stroke much. I'm pretty much a 7.3 IDI guy.

    I do not do my own powder coating. We do have a company local that can powder coat stuff. My whole frame cost 250 for powder coat. It cost 275 to have sand blasted. powered coating wiper arms would be a great idea. Normally I just rattle can them black.

    Let us know how you come out!
    Jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

  13. #43
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    Dec 2011
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    Question for the group. I'm getting ready to install the heater controls. They are little sun faded. What could I use to spiff them back up? Just general cleaner or like armor all or? I'd like to make the black a little more black.

    I could try to find another set also. Not hard to find, but hard to find in good shape around here. Other than the fading mine are in good shape.

    - Jeremy

    The picture isn't mine. This one actually has a better color to it.

    heater.JPG
    Last edited by junk; 01-15-2015 at 01:51 PM.
    Avid collector of rust!

  14. #44
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    Oct 2014
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    Use Mothers Back to Black! That stuff is amazing! The plastic on the outside mirrors and the vents inside had turned to a faded purpley-bluish white color. I put a coat of the stuff on and wiped it off, no incredible change but a tad. So then I put on a liberal coat and let it soak in over night. I gave it all the plastic pieces could soak in. Now they are looking brand spanking new!!! Black and shiny!! I was looking to replace all the parts but after using the Back to Black I don't have to! I am really sold on it. Do try to be neat spreading it on, I just lathered it everywhere and used a toothbrush to rub it into the plastic. So after that I had to wash the truck.

  15. #45
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    Dec 2011
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    Thanks for the tip on the mothers stuff. I've got some other parts that faded out I'll give it a try on also.

    Ok how do you install a rear window in this truck? It's got the rubber gasket around the outside. Do i soap it up? Use a chunk of rope in the groove? Do I need to put any "bedding compound" in the grooves first? Do I put the top of it in first then work the bottom in or vice versa?

    I've never installed a gasketed window like this before and looking for suggestions.

    Thanks
    jeremy
    Avid collector of rust!

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