Spray guns 2012 Review--My new hobby

[vr4_rider]

Hey, guys!

I'm new here and excited to learn all I can about autobody. I've always been into cars, modifications, and autobody work, and my real experience with painting and autobody was in high school.

I want to get back into the scene as a hobbyist; I consider myself a DIY type of guy and I like to save money and learn in the process.

Naturally, we all want to save money and go cheap. Well, as I am older and wiser I have found out that in the long run, you end up spending more money, or not satisfied with the end result.

With that said, I am looking for a good gun for a serious hobbyist. I'm serious in the sense that I am a perfectionist I want it to end up to be a quality piece of work (it doesn't have to be perfect/pro finish. I am already accepting this. I know my first handful of attempts won't be perfect, and I know with time my skills will be improved. I want a gun that will allow me results that I can be proud of and that others will like.

When I began my search, I was OVERWHELMED to say the least. There are so many different types (HVLP, LVLP, RP, etc), different brands, and different models that I did not know where to began.

It is my hope that the list below can help someone just starting out.

I have done a LOT of reading from many different forums and I have gathered what I considered to be the consensus.

What I have learned so far:
-Don't buy a use gun on ebay or elsewhere that you can't inspect the gun. You never really know the condition of the product unless you know what you are doing when you inspect it. Rebuilds can be expensive to the point that you are 50-100 away from a new equivalent gun.

-Listed are the brands that I have came across and what I have gathered from reading:
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Devil Biss
-Make sure to get the compliant caps for better quality of base and clear (to be equivalent to Iwata LPH400).
-Models:
CVi
-Spraying wise it is equiv to a Plus.
-CVi is not as good as Plus with clear coats.
-Smaller spray pattern than Plus.
-Smaller, lighter and therefore maneuver better than Plus.
-Not so good with metallics.

SRiPro
-It is a detail gun 1mm tip, 4oz cup.

GTi Millenium 620
-It is an average/slightly above average gun.
-Overall, with regard to painting, it is not as good as a Plus.
-Can be converted to Plus with Aircap and Nozzles (fluid tips), otherwise all other parts of this is the same as the Plus.

Plus 670
-Not a HVLP. It is a Reduced Pressure gun. It does everything great, but is really good at clearing and single stage.
-This is a better spraying gun overall than the GTi.
-Harder to handle than GTi(skill level).
-Better atomization than the GTi.
-Uses less CFM than GTi.
-More overspray than Gti.
-Able to spray metallic like the GTi.
-Comes with 3 tips so it’s a bargain.

PRi
-This is a primer gun.

Tekna
-Comes in Prolite, QuickClean, and Copper.
-Considered a overall better spray gun than the Plus.
-Make sure to get the 7E7 compliant aircap to be able to spray clear like glass!
-Good for clear coats.
-Superior metallic control.
-Better blends.

Starting Line
-It is the cheapest Devilbiss has to offer. Not recommended unless you only have $100-$150 to spend.
-Comes in 3 different kits.
-Kit 1 comes with 2 guns: Painting & Touch Up (finish coat and detail) 802342
-Kit 2 comes with 2 guns: Painting & Priming (finish coat and primer) 802343
-Kit 3 comes with 3 guns: Painting (finish coat, primer, detail) 802789
Finishing Line
-A step up from the starting line.
-Delivers good quality for the hobbyist.
-There are two types in this line up.
-FLG3 require more air flow. Air Flow: 13 CFM @23 PSI Inlet.
-FLG4 Air Flow: 9.9 CFM @ 40 PSI inlet.
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Binks I don't know much about this brand.
-M1-G HVLP
-BHV is good for topcoat
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Iwata
-Considered one of the top guns.
-Overall equal to (some say it is better) than Sata.
-The Full size line up is a better gun then the GTi/Plus. It consists of three guns:
LPH400LV
LPH400LVB
LPH400LVX
-Compact line up:
LPH300LV
LPH101LVG
-The Mini (detail gun) setup:
LPH80

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Apollo Sprayers I don't know much about this brand.
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Accuspray I don't know much about this brand.
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Axis I don't know much about this brand.
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Sata
2000RP is considered to be a better gun than 3000RP.
3000RP
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Sharpee
-Carries the Finex series. The Finex series is not as good as the Finishline guns offered by Devilbiss.
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In terms of what I think are the most popular guns, I would rank (best to worst):
-Sata and Iwata
-Tekna/Cvi
-Plus
-GTi
-Finishline 4
-Finishline 3
-Finex/Startingline
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Now, I need help:

I have decided this:
-Get 1 gun for primer. Can anyone recommend me a good one?
-Get 1 gun to shoot sealer, base, and clear.
-I narrowed it down to 4 guns:
1) Iwata LPH400. I don't know the differences between LV, LVB, LVX. Please educate me on the differences.
2) Devilbiss Tekna. I don't know the difference between Prolite, QuickClean, and Copper. Please educate me on the differences.
3) Devilbiss Plus.
4) Devilbiss CVi. I don't know how the CVi is different than the Plus. Please educate me on the differences.


I would like 1 VALUE gun to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallics using the most cost effective and route possible. I understand the Devilbiss guns that I mentioned, all you need to do is switch out the tips (1.2, 1.3, 1.8, etc). Therefore, the devilbiss is VERY cost effective.

However, I would get the Iwata if it is cost effective as well.

Please provide your inputs on:
1) Differences between the LPH400 models.
2) Differences between the Tekna models.
3) Differences between Plus and CVi.
4) Is the Iwata a cost effective route vs the Devilbiss if I want to use 1 gun to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallics?

Thank you, and I look forward hearing from any of you and enjoying many years of this art.

TP

[Bob K]

This is a strange message for a first time poster. A lot of what was posted sounds like ad copy from an e-bay seller.

You’ve stated a lot of the basics so go ahead and pick a gun that suits you. Nobody can make your budget decisions for you or tell you what you like or don’t like. When you get down to the fine details of what is best it’s a matter of perception and that will depend on your state of mind and your ability to actually paint. A bad painter with the best gun can do crap work and a good painter can make a poor gun sing.

Spend some time reading the old posts here and you will find your questions have been answered many times many different ways and never will everyone agree with the answer.

You won’t find a best gun that will take you into the next decade. A new better gun is just a month or year away.

Bob K

[another2centsworth]

Sounds like you answered your own questions.
PRIMER: Finishline 3 or 4 with 1.8 and 2.2 tips.
Base and Top Coat: Teckna 1.3 and 1.4 w/7E7 Cap.
OK?

[vr4_rider]

Thanks to all who've commented.

Yes, I kind of know what I want and kind of answer some of my questions to some degree; but I need help narrowing it down because I can't find the specifics from searching past threads.

I think I will get a Startingline primer gun. I've read about people using the Harbor Freight "purple" gun, but I don't want to go that route. So I think I'll end up getting a Startingline or Finishline, unless someone recommends a better gun for the price.

In regards to the Tekna, there are 3 models and all have the 7E7 compliant caps. Here is what I found out about the three. The Prolite is smaller and comes with the teflon like coating to help cleaning easier. The QuickClean has that same teflon like coating; however it is a larger gun than the Prolite. The Copper is the the same as the QC, except that it does not have the teflon like coating.

So, I am considering the Tekna Prolite. Now with a cup, the Prolite becomes about the same price as the Iwata LPH400.

BUT, can the Iwata be made to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallic with the switch of just the tips? If not, what parts will I need and how much more expensive (in general) to get it to do everything the Tekna Prolite can.

Thanks!

[Len]

Thanks to all who've commented.

Yes, I kind of know what I want and kind of answer some of my questions to some degree; but I need help narrowing it down because I can't find the specifics from searching past threads.

I think I will get a Startingline primer gun. I've read about people using the Harbor Freight "purple" gun, but I don't want to go that route. So I think I'll end up getting a Startingline or Finishline, unless someone recommends a better gun for the price.

In regards to the Tekna, there are 3 models and all have the 7E7 compliant caps. Here is what I found out about the three. The Prolite is smaller and comes with the teflon like coating to help cleaning easier. The QuickClean has that same teflon like coating; however it is a larger gun than the Prolite. The Copper is the the same as the QC, except that it does not have the teflon like coating.

So, I am considering the Tekna Prolite. Now with a cup, the Prolite becomes about the same price as the Iwata LPH400.

BUT, can the Iwata be made to shoot sealer, base, clear, and metallic with the switch of just the tips? If not, what parts will I need and how much more expensive (in general) to get it to do everything the Tekna Prolite can.

Thanks!

I'd recommend the Finishline for primer, it's a better gun than the Startingline and it has a wide variety of tips and parts available. The Tekna and the Iwata are both excellent guns. I like the Tekna because of parts availability but, other than that, either gun will do a great job with sealer, base and clear. The Tekna guns can be purchased with multiple tips which makes it quite versatile right out of the box while the Iwata tips need to be purchased separately. Personally I like the Prolite because of the way it feels in my hand but the other Tekna guns spray exactly the same. I used a copper for a long time and got several great paint jobs out of it.

FLG4 Link

[vr4_rider]

Hi, Len. Thanks for your reply.

What does the 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc mean? I know it is the size of the tip, but what is the significance in the size? The smaller the slower you can paint?

I like the ProLite, but I have read opinions on the durability. Since it is smaller that it might not be as durable? What are your thoughts?

Len, does your Tekna set include the TE10, TE20, and TE30 aircaps?

[another2centsworth]

7E7 is your best bet. 8)

[Len]

Hi, Len. Thanks for your reply.

What does the 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc mean? I know it is the size of the tip, but what is the significance in the size? The smaller the slower you can paint?

I like the ProLite, but I have read opinions on the durability. Since it is smaller that it might not be as durable? What are your thoughts?

Len, does your Tekna set include the TE10, TE20, and TE30 aircaps?

Durability won't be an issue unless you plan on using the gun every day to make a living then the gun needs to be durable. If you're painting one or two cars per month the Tekna's durability won't be an issue, clean it properly after each use and it will serve you well for many years.

The Prolite comes in a variety of packages one with an aluminum cup has three fluid tips and two air caps and sells for $455. Without the cup it's about $40 less.

The fluid tips differ according to the viscosity of the paint you're spraying. Thinner paint is sprayed with a smaller tip like the 1.2 and heavier paint is sprayed with a larger tip like the 1.4. In most cases you'll use the 1.3 or 1.4 tips for spraying base/clear.

[vr4_rider]

Thanks, another2centsworth and len.

I think I am going to get the prolite and finishline 3.

A question, though. another2centsworth suggested the 7E7, and from what I read it's a good aircap. BUT, I noticed the prolite doesn't come with the 7E7 aircap...? Are the aircaps interchangeable within the tekna lineup?

[Jayson M]

THe prolite comes with a TE10 and TE20 which are compliant caps for different environments,the TE20 is the most popular.THe tekna is very tough,more so than a plus or CVI,mine has survived 4-6 jobs a day and being taken apart after each use for a year and a half.IMO for the extra cost of the prolite I would just get the regular Tekna,you won't notice much of a difference.The copper,chrome,and quick clean all spray the same and IMO the quick clean is not worth the extra money for a marketing scam,it doesn't clean any easier than anything else.

As for the Iwata I would stay away from the lph-400 they are painfully slow and they still can't get an air cap figured out that works for everything The w-400 is a pretty decent gun with a medium/to slower speed which is great for someone learning.

[vr4_rider]

Hi, Jayson! Thanks for your input.

When you say get the "regular tekna" are you talking about the Tekna Copper? If so, these only come with a 7E7 cap. Due to the difference in gun size, I assume you can't use the TE10, TE20, HV30 of the Prolite on the Copper. Is that correct?

I'm just so darn confuse with all these acronyms! On top of that, for any newbie trying to understand this, the terminology is ambiguous (eg; 7E7 Air Cap vs 7E7 High Efficiency as seen below).

Prolite options:

1.3 and 1.4 nozzles, HVLP and Compliant Air Caps (No Cup) $399.95. So what compliant air caps are you getting? Aren't all of them, except the HV30, compliant? And how many "air caps" (since it's plural) are you getting?
1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 nozzles, TE10 and TE20 Air Caps (No Cup) $409.50

Copper options:

1.3mm,1.2mm nozzles w/7E7 Air Cap (no cup) $345.00
1.3mm, 1.4mm, 7E7 High Efficiency (no cup) $359.95


And are you saying an extra 50 bucks isn't worth going for the ProLite?

I hear you're the name to answer these questions, so please help me

[Len]

Hi, Jayson! Thanks for your input.

When you say get the "regular tekna" are you talking about the Tekna Copper? If so, these only come with a 7E7 cap. Due to the difference in gun size, I assume you can't use the TE10, TE20, HV30 of the Prolite on the Copper. Is that correct?

I'm just so darn confuse with all these acronyms! On top of that, for any newbie trying to understand this, the terminology is ambiguous (eg; 7E7 Air Cap vs 7E7 High Efficiency as seen below).

Prolite options:

1.3 and 1.4 nozzles, HVLP and Compliant Air Caps (No Cup) $399.95. So what compliant air caps are you getting? Aren't all of them, except the HV30, compliant? And how many "air caps" (since it's plural) are you getting?
1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 nozzles, TE10 and TE20 Air Caps (No Cup) $409.50

Copper options:

1.3mm,1.2mm nozzles w/7E7 Air Cap (no cup) $345.00
1.3mm, 1.4mm, 7E7 High Efficiency (no cup) $359.95


And are you saying an extra 50 bucks isn't worth going for the ProLite?

I hear you're the name to answer these questions, so please help me

The Copper and the ProLite air caps are interchangeable and the 7E7 and the T20 look and fit the same but I haven't sprayed with the 7E7 on the ProLite yet.

[vr4_rider]

This is my air compressor:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_221565-14989...roduct_price|1

3.7HP
60 gallon
13.4 CFM @40PSI
11.5 CFM @90PSI

Should that be enough for a hobbyist using a ProLite?

[Jayson M]

I haven't tried to swap air caps,don't see the point either.The regular tekna is chrome,copper or quick clean version use it with a 7e7 compliant cap with either a 1.3 or 1.4 depending on what products you spray.The pro lite is a little more money and I wouldn't swap out caps with this one either,if it was a good idea devilbiss would only have one compliant cap for both guns.I don't really see much difference between them except for size and no air piston on the prolite,as far as sprayability doubtful there is much difference.

[studebaker]

Surprised you missed the Sagola line of spray guns that have been discussed on this board.