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Thread: newbie question, best body filler for no bubble repair

  1. #1
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    Default newbie question, best body filler for no bubble repair

    Hi and thanks for taking time to read this thread.
    I've got a 2001 S10, that has rust in one wheelhouse outer panel. I've ground out the area to good metal, a void about 1/2 inch wide and an 1 1/2 long, its centered in the wheelhouse opening. I sprayed the inside liberally with zinc chromate, the inner wheelhouse metal didn't look too bad.
    Question, welding isn't an option, so, which method and body filler do you recommend for a lasting repair, that doesn't bubble, or crack. I'd like to do better than the cheapest bondo method.

    thanks!

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by S10guy View Post
    Hi and thanks for taking time to read this thread.
    I've got a 2001 S10, that has rust in one wheelhouse outer panel. I've ground out the area to good metal, a void about 1/2 inch wide and an 1 1/2 long, its centered in the wheelhouse opening. I sprayed the inside liberally with zinc chromate, the inner wheelhouse metal didn't look too bad.
    Question, welding isn't an option, so, which method and body filler do you recommend for a lasting repair, that doesn't bubble, or crack. I'd like to do better than the cheapest bondo method.

    thanks!

    Without welding we would recommend this method of repair....


    After cutting the rust out back to new metal grind the surrounding metal clean then countersink the edge of the hole and apply a "good" aluminum tape then cut the tape so that it lies within the sunken area. Using a rounded tool (like the end of a screwdriver handle) press the tape edge so that it gains maximum adhesion to the metal then lightly scuff the aluminum tape with 80 grit being careful not to tear the tape. Apply the fiberglass filler making sure to press it into the surface so that it will adhere properly then sand and apply body filler to fill the indentation.

  3. #3
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    Jul 2012
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    Default

    Thanks Len!
    i appreciate your time taken to respond, and the details/photos.

    Dave

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Without welding we would recommend this method of repair....


    After cutting the rust out back to new metal grind the surrounding metal clean then countersink the edge of the hole and apply a "good" aluminum tape then cut the tape so that it lies within the sunken area. Using a rounded tool (like the end of a screwdriver handle) press the tape edge so that it gains maximum adhesion to the metal then lightly scuff the aluminum tape with 80 grit being careful not to tear the tape. Apply the fiberglass filler making sure to press it into the surface so that it will adhere properly then sand and apply body filler to fill the indentation.
    Using the aluminum tape method as outlined, which filler short, or long strand? which filler do you think is best suited for this type of job?

    again, thanks!
    Last edited by S10guy; 07-31-2012 at 02:07 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default I use...

    Quote Originally Posted by S10guy View Post
    Using the aluminum tape method as outlined, which filler short, or long strand? which filler do you think is best suited for this type of job?

    again, thanks!


    strength
    I have a gallon of U-POL fiberglass SHORT filler. You most likely don't need a full gallon unless you plan on doing other vehicles. Get a quart of brand name and seal it well after use.

    Henry

  6. #6
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    thanks Henry, i ordered a quart of metal 2 metal, what do you use to seal, brand of primer?

    thanks!

    Dave

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by S10guy View Post
    Using the aluminum tape method as outlined, which filler short, or long strand? which filler do you think is best suited for this type of job?

    again, thanks!
    In most cases we use short strand or Metal-2-Metal.

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