Can't use zero rust in a small pocket seam?

[charlestek]

I have some other threads about my attempt to use zero rust in some rusty seams where the outside of my rear fender is welded onto the metal of the inner fender in the wheel well above the tire.

There are a few rusty seams that were formed when the weld spots rusted, the metal edges seperated and formed a pocket. The dimensions of the seam pockets might be say 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm wide
I can clean most of the rust in the pocket.

The issue is that it would be nearly impossible to apply zero rust by spraying or by brush without having too much zero rust collect and form a liquid pocket of zero rust in a blob instead of a thin coating.

The zero rust that would accumulate in a thick pocket would take forever to dry and I need to do the repair and have the car up and running in a day or two. Not to mention that I need to have it dry and then put some Fusor in the seam.

This is in addition to having similar issues applying picklex in the seam pocket and being able to wipe it out before using zero rust.


So my alternative would be to use POR 15 patch (http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/) in the pocket seam after prepping with metal ready, etc.

I know Len has an abhorrent distaste for POR 15, but in this situation, it might be the only reasonable thing to use.

Any thoughts?

[Len]

I have some other threads about my attempt to use zero rust in some rusty seams where the outside of my rear fender is welded onto the metal of the inner fender in the wheel well above the tire.

There are a few rusty seams that were formed when the weld spots rusted, the metal edges seperated and formed a pocket. The dimensions of the seam pockets might be say 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm wide
I can clean most of the rust in the pocket.

The issue is that it would be nearly impossible to apply zero rust by spraying or by brush without having too much zero rust collect and form a liquid pocket of zero rust in a blob instead of a thin coating.

The zero rust that would accumulate in a thick pocket would take forever to dry and I need to do the repair and have the car up and running in a day or two. Not to mention that I need to have it dry and then put some Fusor in the seam.

This is in addition to having similar issues applying picklex in the seam pocket and being able to wipe it out before using zero rust.


So my alternative would be to use POR 15 patch (http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/) in the pocket seam after prepping with metal ready, etc.

I know Len has an abhorrent distaste for POR 15, but in this situation, it might be the only reasonable thing to use.

Any thoughts?

I've never used that particular POR15 product so I can't tell you how it would work, the POR15 that I used gets hard and brittle and works against you after it cracks. I would probably use a seam sealer like Fusor 800 series products because in about 24 hours it gets like hard rubber and bonds very well to just about any solid surface.

Fusor Link

[charlestek]

Len,

Thanks, but you are missing the point entirely.

The issue is that I need to get some kind of rust preventative paint or substance to coat the inside surface of the seam before I put fusor in it, unless this fusor has some magical rust preventative property.

The zero rust because of surface tension is going to blob up inside the seam if I try to use that.

I can wire brush inside the seams with a dremel or something like that and probably get most of the rust out, but there is no guarantee I will get everything.

The proper way to fix this is to have the metal cut off and have someone weld in a section of metal cut out from say a front fender, but I'm not doing that, and the damage right now is not that bad.

The Por15 putty is advertised to stay somewhat flexible.

[Len]

From your description it sounds like there's nothing that will reach all of the rust so the best thing you could do is to SEAL the area so that moisture can't get in and cause more damage. I would still use the Fusor.

[All Dry]

Why not clean as good as you can .Use rust converter to convert the rust then put Fusor over that. Mike

[Len]

Why not clean as good as you can .Use rust converter to convert the rust then put Fusor over that. Mike

If you can get all the loose rust off, apply the converter, work it in with a scuff pad then remove the excess converter with a paper towel then it can do a good job for you. If you can't get to the surface being treated it's best not to use it because it can work against you by not drying properly and causing the sealer NOT to bond properly to the surface.

[charlestek]

Quoting my initial post: "The dimensions of the seam pockets might be say 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm wide
I can clean most of the rust in the pocket."

I don't have a picture, but I can't figure out why people on this thread have a hard time visualizing a seam pocket with the dimension description. Maybe because I don't use inches....?

So Len, when you are talking about "work it in with a scuff pad " I can't understand ---- 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm mouth width of the shall we say "pucker pocket"

If I use a really thin green 3M scuff pad, it might fit, but your really can't work it in since there is no lateral room to slide the pad back and forth.

Anyway, Mike, you are saying "rust converter". Which rust converter? There a lots of different ones. I have the picklex here, but there is an issue as far as scuffing the wet surface dry per what I just said. Or I can blow compressed air in there.

Are we talking Eastwood rust converter???

Right now there is 3m Ultrapro Autobody Sealant in there, left over from my attempt to paint and seal last year documented elsewhere on other posts.
Unfortunately, as I now know from someone else's thread: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...ust#post193092

Using the 3m sealer was a mistake in the first place because it melted the zero rust paint that was in the pocket.
There was too much zero rust in the pocket because spraying anything in that small a space would cause it to collect in a blob glob in the pocket instead of a surface film.

I also have to get the old 3M out of there. Toulene???

[Mooch]

Since the slot is 6mm wide i would think a small hand held blaster would work rather well .

Mooch

[Len]

Quoting my initial post: "The dimensions of the seam pockets might be say 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm wide
I can clean most of the rust in the pocket."

I don't have a picture, but I can't figure out why people on this thread have a hard time visualizing a seam pocket with the dimension description. Maybe because I don't use inches....?

So Len, when you are talking about "work it in with a scuff pad " I can't understand ---- 9mm deep by 18mm long and 6mm mouth width of the shall we say "pucker pocket"

If I use a really thin green 3M scuff pad, it might fit, but your really can't work it in since there is no lateral room to slide the pad back and forth.

Anyway, Mike, you are saying "rust converter". Which rust converter? There a lots of different ones. I have the picklex here, but there is an issue as far as scuffing the wet surface dry per what I just said. Or I can blow compressed air in there.

Are we talking Eastwood rust converter???

Right now there is 3m Ultrapro Autobody Sealant in there, left over from my attempt to paint and seal last year documented elsewhere on other posts.
Unfortunately, as I now know from someone else's thread: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...ust#post193092

Using the 3m sealer was a mistake in the first place because it melted the zero rust paint that was in the pocket.
There was too much zero rust in the pocket because spraying anything in that small a space would cause it to collect in a blob glob in the pocket instead of a surface film.

I also have to get the old 3M out of there. Toulene???

If you can't get to it with a scuff pad then just blow out any excess Picklex a couple times with air pressure. Mooch's recommendation of a small blaster may be the way to go for cleaning the channel.