Temp went way up so on second coat of clear used high temp activator instead of mid temp like first coat sprayed one side and it turned to cottage cheese I have mixed diffrent temp products befor but never had a disaster like this.![]()
Temp went way up so on second coat of clear used high temp activator instead of mid temp like first coat sprayed one side and it turned to cottage cheese I have mixed diffrent temp products befor but never had a disaster like this.![]()
Gotta pic? Sounds like incompatibility or improper flash time.
First coat was sweet flashed for 30-45 min all I did was went from mid temp activator to high temp on second coat.By the time I finished one side it was lifting like you put paint stripper on it.
35-40 minutes flash. why did you wait so long, especially if you thought mid temp activator was too fast for your conditions. Your first coat was likely too set up already (started crosslinking and curing by this point). once you hit it with that second coat, the solvents penetrated and wrinkled it like they would do if you sanded through clear and rebased without sealing the edges.
I agree with ding, sounds like you waited too long between coats. Just changing the temp of reducer from mid temp to high temp reducer will not have any noticable negative effects by themselves. I've done it many times simply because I ran out of one reducer and had to use a different temp reducer in the middle of a paint job, absolutely no problems.
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Can I just sand the clear and re clear.Shot centari for years my second bc/cc last one was in dead of winter. Nason 9800 clear.
I don't think so. I think you're going to need to sand it smooth then prime with a decent 2K primer to seal and level the surface then repaint. I think as soon as you start sanding you'll break through the high spots so I'd say to level it with some 180 or 220 then prime, sand and shoot. It'll probably save you time.
I was under the impression that waiting longer was better, as long as you don't go over the recoat time?
That's usually right up to a point but it depends on the solvents and hardeners used, the quality of the paint and the conditions present during the drying. In most cases you just want it to dry a little but not cure however at high temperatures it can cure pretty fast. I usually recommend that you allow your first coat to dry enough so that it doesn't move when you touch it but not so long that it starts to harden. During warm weather you can usually recoat in a couple minutes.
Can I use the primer surfacer I used on the rest of body do I need to get back to the base or just smooth clear.Some where I read about re basing right over the clear..
I usually do the string test. On the tape or paper on the wettest part of the vehicle that you covered (window etc) put your finger on it, pull away slowly and if it doesn't string spray another coat. Don't do this on the actual vehicle paint but on an area that has been taped up. If it's an entire vehicle in the summer I spray a coat on the vehicle and by the time I'm don't with the first coat I start on the next.
Ding is absolutely right. And if you had applied a couple of coats with the first application it may not have happened, and if you had let it flash (cure) a little while longer it may not have happened. You caught it right at it's critical time, not quite linked up and the solvents from the next coat which were even "wetter" because of the slower hardener soaked into it lifting it just as Ding explained.
Brian
Can I sand the good side clear with 600 then re clear.