Rust Inhibitor Solutions

[Chevman]

Forget about chevman seeing your perspective......

Points and condensor, been there done it for years.... Thank GOD they are gone from my vehicles. LOL!

There is a rust removal process that works neat through I guess what is called electrolysis. Involves a certain washing detergent with borax, a piece of stainless and a small battery charger. I'm sure chevman (fred) can google it and then educate you on everything you need to know franz. He is good at copy/paste.

Now Tim just because you have never been able to change my mind on anything, doesn't mean its the same for everyone.

Ah, the joy of maintenance

Yes, I have seen some youtube stuff on electrolysis, but I would not want to try it at home. There is a shop near me that does an excellent job of it. It actually pulls a lot of the rust out of the seams, unlike an acid dip that does almost nothing with the rust in the seams, but I do use the acid stripper for the panels with only light rust because it is so much cheaper.

[Chevman]

The quality cars you speak of from Japan were nothing but metal you could watch rust. I remember the first Corollas and no one will forget about the intruduction of the Honda Civic. A Datsun "Z" car was nothing but a pile of ROT as the others nevermind rust.

Henry

The quality that I speak of came much later than the cars you are referring to. As I said, I don't know about the quality of the foreign cars back then, there were very few in my part of the country.

[frostje]

Can be helpful for dealing with areas that don't need to be painted, like the back side of the panel, under the vehicle and inside the wheel wells

Fluid film is great to keep rust at bay or keep a car from rusting. But if any of it gets anywhere on primer , sealer,etc, it causes major fish eyes. We had to clean a car COMPLETELY of that crap and it just gets everywhere and is a major bitch to clean up. IMO, fluid film is a VERY bad idea. It took weeks for us to clean that stuff out of all the crevices it kept popping out of.

[Franz©]

Forget about chevman seeing your perspective......

Points and condensor, been there done it for years.... Thank GOD they are gone from my vehicles. LOL!

There is a rust removal process that works neat through I guess what is called electrolysis. Involves a certain washing detergent with borax, a piece of stainless and a small battery charger. I'm sure chevman (fred) can google it and then educate you on everything you need to know franz. He is good at copy/paste.

Honestly I don't think I need anyone to copy & paste information on the process misnamed "electrolysis". I've got the process down, use carbon collecting electrodes that drop the rust in the bottom of the tank, and run my tank 24/7 with clear electrolyte for the last few years.
PLEASE don't use stainless in the process, it makes some very nasty HazMat.
The laundry detergent you speak of is Arm & Hammer Washing Soda. Actually some people argue you can get better results with Oxyclean. Honestly good old baking soda works just as well if used in correct concentration and costs a lot less. I'd post a link but Len gets nervous when I do that.

Frankly were I seeking to do rust removal from panels in a tank I'd go with either electroplating in situations where the process will work or a molasses tank to chelate the rust from inside reenforcments and in seams. Dave Koffer has been doing molasses for years in a tank he can contain a truck cab in.

Then there is the matter of what you do with the part post derusting. 5%± phosphoric can and will turn that flashrust into iron phosphate, and that is a superior coating layer to any primer made. One hell of a lot of steel in the world today is being phosphated for protection.

[tomsteve]

[QUOTE=Len;202326]Actually motor oil works quite well if you apply it regularly, that's why those leaking old cars don't rust underneath when they get a constant oil bath.

had a man last year wanted me to undercoat his 95 bronco. lots of northern michigan winters. pulled it in and took a look. he had been applying used motor oil for years and there wasnt a lick of rust anywhere. talked him into keepin up what he was doin.

[another2centsworth]

Honestly I don't think I need anyone to copy & paste information on the process misnamed "electrolysis". I've got the process down, use carbon collecting electrodes that drop the rust in the bottom of the tank, and run my tank 24/7 with clear electrolyte for the last few years.
PLEASE don't use stainless in the process, it makes some very nasty HazMat.
The laundry detergent you speak of is Arm & Hammer Washing Soda. Actually some people argue you can get better results with Oxyclean. Honestly good old baking soda works just as well if used in correct concentration and costs a lot less. I'd post a link but Len gets nervous when I do that.

Frankly were I seeking to do rust removal from panels in a tank I'd go with either electroplating in situations where the process will work or a molasses tank to chelate the rust from inside reenforcments and in seams. Dave Koffer has been doing molasses for years in a tank he can contain a truck cab in.

Then there is the matter of what you do with the part post derusting. 5%± phosphoric can and will turn that flashrust into iron phosphate, and that is a superior coating layer to any primer made. One hell of a lot of steel in the world today is being phosphated for protection.

Misnamed my description?? What do you call that process fran?
The carbon strips this guy shows at the beginning I see. Afterwards I did not see the carbon plates. Say the crust settles to the bottom in your experience? It collects on my stainless plates.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOx5URgjTiU

Seen the molasses deal a yr or two ago. The guy has a cool process I enjoyed watching but I will pass on that.

[Franz©]

I call the process electroplating. Were I employing any electrode material other than carbon, the rust would plate onto the + electrode, ergo the process is electroplating.

The only electrolysis occurring in the tank is happening to the water component of the electrolyte. The electrolytic action performs no work in the rust removal.

1, I don't U tube anything. If the advocate can't explain his process in writing, viewing his idea isn't worth my time.

2, Carbon electrodes are not going to let the rust headed their way across the electrolyte stick to them, so the rust sinks to the bottom of the tank. Rust can and will plate onto steel, Stainless, Copper, Nickle, aluminum, Brass and even lead. Carbon eliminates the plating, ergo carbon electrodes run at 100% efficiency continuously.

Your reference to the CRUST isn't specific enough for me to comment on. Are you referring to the floating layer of scum on top of the solution?

[another2centsworth]

thanks for the explanation.

[arthur]

The quality cars you speak of from Japan were nothing but metal you could watch rust. I remember the first Corollas and no one will forget about the intruduction of the Honda Civic. A Datsun "Z" car was nothing but a pile of ROT as the others nevermind rust.

Henry

unfortunately the z car was made of "compressed rust". But it was a wonderful car and mechanically twice as reliable as a Ford or Chevie of the same era.

[LelandKeller]

Fluid film is great to keep rust at bay or keep a car from rusting. But if any of it gets anywhere on primer , sealer,etc, it causes major fish eyes. We had to clean a car COMPLETELY of that crap and it just gets everywhere and is a major bitch to clean up. IMO, fluid film is a VERY bad idea. It took weeks for us to clean lingerie out of all the crevices it kept popping out of.

There are many good rust control solutions but it is how better you clean the car will keep the rust away