Flow coating

[xtremekustomz]

Couple questions. I know this is usually done with a high solids clear from what I understand. Is it best to lay down a normally mixed coat of clear, wait until it doesn't string and then lay down 2 or 3 wet layers of reduced clear (waiting until this doesn't string as well)? Next question is actual reduction. I know the nason 465 clear lists a reducer and says 20%. House of kolor is 2 parts clear to 1 part activator to 1 part reducer and for flow coating an additional 30-50% reducer. Will there be an issue reducing the 465 the same amount? I have some Zolatone 2:1 clear left over from a job. It doesn't list for any reduction but would a urethane grade reducer do the same thing for this clear to make it flow better without any issues? I know read the tech sheets but I can't find information on that clear anywhere.

[style]

Couple questions. I know this is usually done with a high solids clear from what I understand. Is it best to lay down a normally mixed coat of clear, wait until it doesn't string and then lay down 2 or 3 wet layers of reduced clear (waiting until this doesn't string as well)? Next question is actual reduction. I know the nason 465 clear lists a reducer and says 20%. House of kolor is 2 parts clear to 1 part activator to 1 part reducer and for flow coating an additional 30-50% reducer. Will there be an issue reducing the 465 the same amount? I have some Zolatone 2:1 clear left over from a job. It doesn't list for any reduction but would a urethane grade reducer do the same thing for this clear to make it flow better without any issues? I know read the tech sheets but I can't find information on that clear anywhere.

your first problem is nason,you can put 10 coats and it will still flake off in the end,or two coats and it will turn yellow then flake off the reason why is it contains no uv inhibitors compared to sikkens cross fire or most normal decent clears..

by haveing no uv protection the base breaks down and turns to powder then it allows the clear to seperate when you have solvent seperation you have clearcoat failiure and there is no saving it at that point..

what your doing as far as putting more material is risking it cracking later from to much material,especially on black or dark colors and in the end you wont even be able to see a difference..

[xtremekustomz]

your first problem is nason,you can put 10 coats and it will still flake off in the end,or two coats and it will turn yellow then flake off the reason why is it contains no uv inhibitors compared to sikkens cross fire or most normal decent clears..

by haveing no uv protection the base breaks down and turns to powder then it allows the clear to seperate when you have solvent seperation you have clearcoat failiure and there is no saving it at that point..

what your doing as far as putting more material is risking it cracking later from to much material,especially on black or dark colors and in the end you wont even be able to see a difference..

Not disagreeing with you or trying to start an argument but doesn't all clearcoat fail at some point in time? I've seen alot of factory finishes (especially on some of the honda's) that are flaking after 5 years. A friend of mine painted his truck 10 years ago with nason clear and he hasn't had a problem out of it yet. I've done quite a few jobs with nason and they still look great including my dads truck that I painted 6 years ago that gets washed maybe once a year(besecoat is white and still looks white not yellow). I'm not saying there aren't better clears out there but people I do stuff for are paying cash and don't want to spend alot of money. I do the best job I can with the money they are willing to spend. I give them the option for the middle range products and the high end stuff. I just do stuff on the side so nothing is paid for by insurance.

As for putting on material. The reason I'm asking about the flow coating is for color sanding and buffing purposes. I figure if you put on 4 coats and sand off 1 you have 3 coats left. Again...not trying to start an argument. Just speaking from my limited experience.

[Len]

Lay on a couple coats of clear, allow it to harden, sand out the peel and dust nibs with some 1200/1500 then mix more clear and over-reduce it and spray another couple of coats that will flow much flatter. This is flow coating and I've done it a few times but I've stopped because I haven't seen the advantage over just polishing.

[JCCLARK]

I painted my son's hood 7 yrs ago with Nasson clear and
it's still one of the best looking clear jobs I've ever done.
It's really a durable clear.

[junk]

JCclark - That's what I like to hear as I'm planning to use Nason on my truck project I've got going right now. I put it on a couple car doors 2 years ago and it still looks.

[JCCLARK]

The only thing I didn't like about the Nissan was it didn't flow
as well as other clears and it hardens up like a rock in a couple
of days so you better cut and buff the next day.
It did seem to be a more clear finish that had a more brilliant shine
than my other clears, I just prefer some others for the better
flow-out so I haven't used the Nasson in years.
It may be different now, I don't know, but I do know my DuPont supplier
sells a lot of it to local bodyshops so it must be doing OK.

[xtremekustomz]

Lay on a couple coats of clear, allow it to harden, sand out the peel and dust nibs with some 1200/1500 then mix more clear and over-reduce it and spray another couple of coats that will flow much flatter. This is flow coating and I've done it a few times but I've stopped because I haven't seen the advantage over just polishing.

Why 1200-1500? In my House of Kolor tech book it says sand with 500. Is there a chance you will see the 500 grit scratches underneath?

[Len]

Why 1200-1500? In my House of Kolor tech book it says sand with 500. Is there a chance you will see the 500 grit scratches underneath?

No you won't see the scratches if you use 500 and it will sand a lot quicker but be careful not to go through the clear or you will see it when you re-clear.