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Thread: A few sanding/paint questions

  1. #1
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    May 2012
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    Default A few sanding/paint questions

    Hi folks, my first post here but i'll been reading about sanding/painting cars for weeks now. My grandson wants me and him to paint his jeep wrangler i gave him for his 16th bday when schools out for the summer. I have painted lots of cabinets and things around the shop like camper tops, tractor, trailer, etc.but no complete car. We will be changing the color from dark green to a med orange. The jeep is in real good shape for its age with only alittle clear coat coming off on the one fender about the size of a dollar bill. My question is what grit paper do i need to start with on a 6" DA sander to get it ready for primer? They is only 2 small dents on the hood( which has been painted since new) bc/cc, the rest of body is straight and rust free. I'm thinking of going with acrylic urethane sc or bc/cc. Any thoughts on the paint would be helpful also.
    The gun i'm going to use is old school devilbiss JGA 502. This will be my last complete paint job, so no new gun for me. Also any thoughts on how much primer/paint i would need for this small jeep.

    Thanks for the great site to help people like me and grandson.

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by haroldp View Post
    Hi folks, my first post here but i'll been reading about sanding/painting cars for weeks now. My grandson wants me and him to paint his jeep wrangler i gave him for his 16th bday when schools out for the summer. I have painted lots of cabinets and things around the shop like camper tops, tractor, trailer, etc.but no complete car. We will be changing the color from dark green to a med orange. The jeep is in real good shape for its age with only alittle clear coat coming off on the one fender about the size of a dollar bill. My question is what grit paper do i need to start with on a 6" DA sander to get it ready for primer? They is only 2 small dents on the hood( which has been painted since new) bc/cc, the rest of body is straight and rust free. I'm thinking of going with acrylic urethane sc or bc/cc. Any thoughts on the paint would be helpful also.
    The gun i'm going to use is old school devilbiss JGA 502. This will be my last complete paint job, so no new gun for me. Also any thoughts on how much primer/paint i would need for this small jeep.

    Thanks for the great site to help people like me and grandson.
    Without a top you should be able to get away with two quarts of "good" paint or three if you're using inexpensive paint. You would also need about two quarts of primer and two quarts of clear if you're only shooting the exterior.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Len, no top and half doors. Any help on the grits for air DA sander, never used one before. I used electric for cabinets. Also the paint looks factory except the hood which is bc/cc, would i need a sealer? I think i have read that bc/cc is more forgiving than sc, is that right?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by haroldp View Post
    Thanks Len, no top and half doors. Any help on the grits for air DA sander, never used one before. I used electric for cabinets. Also the paint looks factory except the hood which is bc/cc, would i need a sealer? I think i have read that bc/cc is more forgiving than sc, is that right?
    If you're just scuffing with the DA then 400 should do the trick. Base/clear is a little easier to get a consistent finish but because you are applying more coats you need to be pay attention for a longer spraying session and there's more opportunity for make mistakes. If your substrate is all the same then a sealer may not be required but if you have different materials that you're spraying over then you should use sealer.

  5. #5
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    Not sure whats on the hood, but ever who did it was a pro and did a good job. Anyway to test to see if i need a sealer on the hood?

    By the way, what is K2? is it a urethane primer?

    Thanks for your help.

  6. #6
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    From what it sounds like with out pics you could just da the whole thing with 600 and then shoot it with base and clear.. primers more for hiding defects like bare metal and sand marks...


  7. #7
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    Well i have the couple of clear spots thats lifting that i will have to sand down smooth, so i might as well go with gray primer for the tanagine orange base. I'm just guessing here..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by haroldp View Post
    Well i have the couple of clear spots thats lifting that i will have to sand down smooth, so i might as well go with gray primer for the tanagine orange base. I'm just guessing here..
    feathering them and spot primering them will work, and dont buy cheap paint as that color normally doesnt cover well..

  9. #9
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    Thanks everyone, theres only one jobber in town and he sales PPG i think. Is that good paint?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by haroldp View Post
    Thanks everyone, theres only one jobber in town and he sales PPG i think. Is that good paint?
    If you're going with b/c I'd use PPG DBC it's twice the price as their Omni line MBC but it covers twice as good therefore less material used. If you decide to go single stage I recommend Omni MTK Acrylic Urethane, I use this stuff on almost everything I spray it covers and holds up well and if you wish you can mix ready to spray MC161 clear up to 50% with your paint on the last coat which will help if you want to sand, buff and polish. It sounds like you don't really need to primer the whole thing so you may consider MP180 sealer, give it one coat only then you're ready for paint in 15-20 minutes. Also I believe PPG's cheaper Shopline brand JC630 clear is pretty good stuff especially for the money, it finishes real nice and I actually had a PPG rep tell me they believed this was PPG's second best clear next to a clear from their Delfleet line, I forget which number.

  11. #11
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks everyone, i'll keep all this in mind when the time comes. It'll be about 3 wks until he's out and he starts college in the fall.

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