Skimcoat Material of Choice -- Time For a Change?

[RottenRodney]

Anyone remember this car from the “Classic (pre-1970) Resto” section of the forum? There are a few ol’ chargers in that mix, but this is the one that came to us with a whole bunch o’ ‘70s-style punch ‘n’ pull body repair under White Star on the passenger side.

Anyway, the passenger side was a whole bunch o’ work, but it turned out pretty bitchin. I approached the fillerwork usin’ tried ‘n’ true methods, which included skim-coatin’ with a thinned-down mix o’ Rage Gold with polyester resin added. If ya’ve done it that way, ya already know it’s a sticky situation. Extra resin makes the mud extra gooey at first. Then once it’s all the way cured it seems to sand harder than stock-viscosity Rage Gold.

So now the driver side (the easy side) initial fillerwork (Marglass, then Rage Gold) is done and it’s ready for a skimcoat. I’ve noticed here that some of you guys like Quantum 1 for skimmin’, but I think I’d best confess a couple habits before askin’ for input.

Habit 1. I’m not a cheese-grater guy. When workin’ large expanses I like to sneak up on my curing mud with previously-spent abrasives in order to get the upper hand while it’s still easily cut. Can I do the same with Quantum 1?

Habit 2. I plan to use maskin’ tape to create a sharp bodyline like in the ol’ thread where the opposite side was skimmed ‘n’ faired out. Can I do that with Quantum 1, or will the sharpness of the pulled tapeline fade ‘n’ flow into flatness?

Look, I’ve been set in my ways for a long time and I tend to resist change, but I’d consider tryin’ Quantum 1 for skmmin’—if I could avoid the usual paper-pluggin’ goop fight. Considerin' my habits, should I try Quantum 1?

[another2centsworth]

I would shoot one wet coat of epoxy followed with 3 wet coats Slick Sand. Best skim coat there is. Just have a 2.2-2.5mm tip on the primer gun.

[Len]

Anyone remember this car from the “Classic (pre-1970) Resto” section of the forum? There are a few ol’ chargers in that mix, but this is the one that came to us with a whole bunch o’ ‘70s-style punch ‘n’ pull body repair under White Star on the passenger side.

Anyway, the passenger side was a whole bunch o’ work, but it turned out pretty bitchin. I approached the fillerwork usin’ tried ‘n’ true methods, which included skim-coatin’ with a thinned-down mix o’ Rage Gold with polyester resin added. If ya’ve done it that way, ya already know it’s a sticky situation. Extra resin makes the mud extra gooey at first. Then once it’s all the way cured it seems to sand harder than stock-viscosity Rage Gold.

So now the driver side (the easy side) initial fillerwork (Marglass, then Rage Gold) is done and it’s ready for a skimcoat. I’ve noticed here that some of you guys like Quantum 1 for skimmin’, but I think I’d best confess a couple habits before askin’ for input.

Habit 1. I’m not a cheese-grater guy. When workin’ large expanses I like to sneak up on my curing mud with previously-spent abrasives in order to get the upper hand while it’s still easily cut. Can I do the same with Quantum 1?

Habit 2. I plan to use maskin’ tape to create a sharp bodyline like in the ol’ thread where the opposite side was skimmed ‘n’ faired out. Can I do that with Quantum 1, or will the sharpness of the pulled tapeline fade ‘n’ flow into flatness?

Look, I’ve been set in my ways for a long time and I tend to resist change, but I’d consider tryin’ Quantum 1 for skmmin’—if I could avoid the usual paper-pluggin’ goop fight. Considerin' my habits, should I try Quantum 1?

We use Quantum 1 after doing the initial filling with Rage Gold, the Q1 is more liquid and spreads more smoothly and gives you a longer time window to work the filler into a more smooth coating. When we have large areas to level we use a spray on filler like Slick Sand to tie the whole job together. Some of our custom or restoration work is more filler than metal and stepping from one filler to the next works well on them.

[Len]

One more thing.... See those wheel ramps you're using, they are VERY dangerous, one small mistake could trap someone against the wall or come down at the wrong time. If you don't make mistakes you're probably safe but they didn't work out for someone I know.

[RottenRodney]

One more thing.... See those wheel ramps you're using, they are VERY dangerous, one small mistake could trap someone against the wall or come down at the wrong time. If you don't make mistakes you're probably safe but they didn't work out for someone I know.

Huh? Let's come back to filler a little later -- what's the problem with the ramps exactly?



Up 'til now they've been valuable tools for elevatin' cars to a comfortable level for jobs like this. As a rule I don't much care for jackstands when this kind o' work is goin' on. I'm not tellin' ya nothin' new if I ramble 'bout wantin' the car's weight evenly distributed (on tires) during fairing opperations -- y'all know what that's about I'm sure. So, tell me specifically, what happened to "someone" ya know?

[Len]

Huh? Let's come back to filler a little later -- what's the problem with the ramps exactly?



Up 'til now they've been valuable tools for elevatin' cars to a comfortable level for jobs like this. As a rule I don't much care for jackstands when this kind o' work is goin' on. I'm not tellin' ya nothin' new if I ramble 'bout wantin' the car's weight evenly distributed (on tires) during fairing opperations -- y'all know what that's about I'm sure. So, tell me specifically, what happened to "someone" ya know?

We backed a car onto the ramps so that the rear could be worked on more easily. My helper got out of the car and walked in front of it when the car rolled forward off the ramps and pinned him against the cinder block wall. Luckily the car was a Austin Healy 3000 without the front bumper and the front panel wrapped right around him without crushing him. It happened pretty fast and nobody got too upset until it happened again a few days later with another car but this time nobody was in it's path. We then trashed them and never used them again.

I have to admit that it was negligence that caused both of these problems but it happened too easily and I couldn't guarantee it wouldn't happen again so we no longer use them.

[another2centsworth]

WOW! Something to think about but I have been using them for yrs.

[Jayson M]

I also like the idea of spray poly for a big old resto like that,you can hog on 4 coats with a 2.5 tip and start blocking with 120,finish with 180 then go straight to urethane 2k.If you don't want to give that a whirl I have really grown to love upol dolphin glaze pourable poly putty.You can put it on very thin and smooth and its super easy to sand.

[RottenRodney]

WOW! Something to think about but I have been using them for yrs.

Same here. Those ramps look pretty new, but they're not. They've supported a bunch o' past projects. I'm pretty freaky 'bout saftey stuff. The ramps 'ave a tire bump both fore 'n' aft. I don't drive cars up on 'em or anything like that. In the Charger's case, the park brake works and it's in park. It's rock-solid enough, I think. I'm comforable with 'em.

Back to skimmin': I don't think I'll need a spray-on filler this late in the game, but if Quantum 1 is less-gooey than Rage Gold with extra resin, I'm ready to place an order.

RR

[Len]

Same here. Those ramps look pretty new, but they're not. They've supported a bunch o' past projects. I'm pretty freaky 'bout saftey stuff. The ramps 'ave a tire bump both fore 'n' aft. I don't drive cars up on 'em or anything like that. In the Charger's case, the park brake works and it's in park. It's rock-solid enough, I think. I'm comforable with 'em.

Back to skimmin': I don't think I'll need a spray-on filler this late in the game, but if Quantum 1 is less-gooey than Rage Gold with extra resin, I'm ready to place an order.

RR

If you decide to go with Quantum 1 be sure that you purchase the amount and speed of the hardener you need because, unlike other fillers, the hardener is sold separately. It takes 4 tubes of hardener to harden one gallon of Q1.

[RottenRodney]

If you decide to go with Quantum 1 be sure that you purchase the amount and speed of the hardener you need because, unlike other fillers, the hardener is sold separately. It takes 4 tubes of hardener to harden one gallon of Q1.

Okay Len. I'll give ya a call in a bit -- maybe two bits, but no longer than that. It'll be today.