Rolling or brushing epoxy??? True??

**Fried Balony** · 07-12-2006, 09:56 PM

After searching I found one comment that someone brushes epoxy on. Can this be done? I don't plan on painting my bus myself but want to do all the prep work. The bus is pretty straight and mostly needs surface rust repair along the drip rail. I hope to have it blasted then Picklexed and probably use some Evercoat polyester filler to fill the craters and then I would like to put epoxy on top of that. Now, my real problem.... It tears me up inside knowing what I will need to pay in order to have the equipment to spray the epoxy on. I live in the south so I'm going to need air dryers, filters, spray gun, and then figure the whole process out just to spray a small amount on my bus. Help! Any suggestions about alternatives? Is there a brush on epoxy worth using for this. Although I'm looking for an easy way out here I still want it to be a good job. Thanks for any assistance!!!!

Brian

**Len** · 07-12-2006, 10:59 PM

Hi Brian
The problem with rolling or brushing is that it leaves the primer with a texture that needs to be removed by sanding before you can paint it. If you don't mind doing a lot of block sanding you could probably get away with rolling or brushing on the primer. If you don't want all that roughness and you don't want to purchase all the tools you could probably rent a compressor and spray gun for a couple days that could do the job of priming but you'll still need to mask the vehicle before spraying. Check with your local tool rental business.

**Fried Balony** · 07-13-2006, 12:59 AM

Originally Posted by Len

Hi Brian
The problem with rolling or brushing is that it leaves the primer with a texture that needs to be removed by sanding before you can paint it. If you don't mind doing a lot of block sanding you could probably get away with rolling or brushing on the primer. If you don't want all that roughness and you don't want to purchase all the tools you could probably rent a compressor and spray gun for a couple days that could do the job of priming but you'll still need to mask the vehicle before spraying. Check with your local tool rental business.

Masking wouldn't be a problem. Do rental companies actually rent spray guns?...interesting. My local rental options are slim (small town Alabama) but I'll call and check. I have a 6hp 30gal Sears compressor that would work for primer but after reading about 200 hundred different posts about moisture in the tank and all the equipment and gadgets needed to remove it, my ambition deflated quickly. Thoughts? If I can't rent a spray gun and filtering system I may just resort to my endless supply of elbow grease, because texture isn't gonna happen with me. More thoughts and ideas are welcomed!! Oh, which epoxy product would be most conducive to brushing or rolling over Picklex??

Thanks again Len! .....and everyone else!

**Jon E** · 07-13-2006, 08:00 AM

6 hp air compressor = $0
Cheap water separator = $20
Cheap Harbor Freight primer gun = $25
Ball type desicant air drier for air hose = $10

Honestly, if you can't afford that, then you probably can't afford to finish your project correctly either.

**Len** · 07-13-2006, 08:07 AM

The products available in your area would determine which to buy. Find a decent supplier and ask them about brushing or rolling. I sell a U-Pol Kit for rolling on primer that works well.

You could easily use your 30 gallon compressor for priming but you would also need a spray gun. You could spray the vehicle in sections so that the compressor wouldn't get too hot and generate a lot of moisture.

U-Pol Roll-On Primer Kit Link

**SamG** · 07-13-2006, 09:18 AM

where are you in Alabama Brian? I''m in Talladega. Let me know where you are and we'll see if there's any way we can help you out.

SamG

**Fried Balony** · 07-13-2006, 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by SamG

where are you in Alabama Brian? I''m in Talladega. Let me know where you are and we'll see if there's any way we can help you out.

SamG

Hey neighbor! I'm in Gadsden. I would appreciate any help you have to offer.
Thanks!

JonE - As far as all the cheapo HF equipment; If I knew without a doubt that it would suffice I wouldn't hesitate, but after reading many many threads on this it sounds like it would be a crap shoot. I'm not a gambler. Apparently there are too many factors that come into play (Alabama with its humidity,for one). And like everything else I get myself into for the "first time", your $55 estimate will soon be $300. I'm not a cheapO, just budget wise and mindfull with my cash. My thoughts are like this; Drip rails on all VW buses are very flawed looking from the factory due to the shape I guess and all the studs welds. So, if I were to do any roll on applications it seems to be the perfect and ideal location for it. As I mentioned though, I am not willing to compromise the project if it cant be done properly with a roll on application. Adhesion is my biggest concern. I'll eventually get it smooth. But maybe my luck has just changed with someone local willing to assist.
Thanks for the feedback

**Fried Balony** · 07-13-2006, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by Len

The products available in your area would determine which to buy. Find a decent supplier and ask them about brushing or rolling. I sell a U-Pol Kit for rolling on primer that works well.

Is U-Poll epoxy??

**Jon E** · 07-13-2006, 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by Fried Balony

JonE - As far as all the cheapo HF equipment; If I knew without a doubt that it would suffice I wouldn't hesitate, but after reading many many threads on this it sounds like it would be a crap shoot. I'm not a gambler.

I can assure it is not a crap shoot.

Ive used Harbor Freight primer guns DAILY for the past 5 or 6 years with absolutely zero problems. There is absoluetly nothing wrong with them at all. I wouldn't top coat with them, but they are absolutely perfect for a primer gun. Im also in northwest FL and humidity is routinly in the 80-90% range here.

The only time you run into bad moisture problems in air lines is when you are using a large ammount of air for an extended period of time. A small primer application at low pressure probably won't even require a water separator at all, so dont get too worked up over moisture problems. It's not that big of a deal. A simple in-line water separator will work perfectly for you. Then you will also be able to spray your 2k primer and not have to worry about sanding out brush strokes from a gummy epoxy.

**Fried Balony** · 07-13-2006, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by Jon E

Cheap water separator = $20
Ball type desicant air drier for air hose = $10

Where can I get these that inexpensive?

I admit that I am getting a bit worked up over all of that. Too confusing. It's good to hear from someone from the south. Say I get this equipment as mentioned, what is the best way to determine the air is dry enough?

Thanks Jon!
Brian

PS - When I said crapshoot I was referring to the possibility that more equipment may be needed. I wasn't knocking HF (not too bad anyway).

**Ron H** · 07-13-2006, 05:25 PM

but it has worked for me. I live in NE Texas and the humidity runs extremely high here also. I have been stripping, cleaning, picklexing then priming my 57 a section at a time while taking the car apart for the last ten months or so. The problems I had hapened after the compressor heats up from continuous use. Usually from sand blasting. I have a 60 gal. craftsman, about the minimum for the work I have done so far. When I have a problem with the heat/humidity factor I put a 25ft section of hose between the compressor and my hose reel. I put about four inches of water in a five gallon bucket coil up the 25ft section of hose in the bucket and put a ten pound bag of ice in the bucket. I have a water separator between the coiled hose and the hose reel, another on the sandblaster itself. It works unbelievably well, BUT you have to take the coiled section off and drain it as well when you are done. I get virtually no water in the second seperator. This combination has produced great results for me. It was a quick, cheap, easy, temporary solution for the moisture problem I get here in the hot months. I eventually plan on using steel pipe for cooling lines, drops etc, but that is a project to come later. Ron

**Jon E** · 07-13-2006, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by Fried Balony

Where can I get these that inexpensive?

Air/water separators for $20:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1118
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45009

Desicant ball drier from Len $12:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=SGA

One of my favorite El-Cheapo primer guns for $25:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47016

With one of those water separators, an air drier and draining the water from your air tank you should have no problem with water in the air lines.

**Fried Balony** · 07-13-2006, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by Jon E

With one of those water separators, an air drier and draining the water from your air tank you should have no problem with water in the air lines.

Thanks for looking those up!!!! Makes life a bunch easier!!!!
What respirator would suffice?

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